sloppy steering box

[Hoghead]

My BJ8 steering box has a lot of play and I would like something better

Does anyone rebuild these?

I see new ones are available and Dennis Welsh is manufacturing a new box to tighter tolerances. Any comments on the Welsh box?

I also see a rack and pinion conversion kit. Any comments on this?

 

[glemon]

Just a couple of questions before you look at rebuilding, have you tried adjusting the steering box play?, I believe there is an adjustment screw or nut on top of the box, also the various tie rod and cross rod ends create play when they wear, I am just suggesting you look into all that first (if you haven't already) before you get into a the more expensive and time consuming repair.

 

[Keoke]

also see a rack and pinion conversion kit. Any comments on this?
Yep
got one in every car I own but the Healey. Sure beat that old worm/peg box. :banana:

 

[Jerry]

So why not the Healey?

 

[Healey_Z]

I adjusted my box. A few turns of the screw made a huge difference; took all the play out.

 

[Keoke]

So why not the Healey?

Because I have an NOS box found in Germany a couple of years ago setting on my work bench which I will install when the mood hits me.I also do not want to fight the bump steer issue :laugh:

 

[Keoke]

I adjusted my box. A few turns of the screw made a huge difference; took all the play out.

Yes a box with good bearings and peg can be adjusted to minimise slop

 

[BigGreen]

Beware, a little slack is ok
The wear in the worm is not always the same everywhere
Removing the play in the middle can lead to too little play at the ends

I did mine this way;
Jack up front, turn wheel far left, put a mark somewhere
Now turn back to straight position and adjust a little.
Fasten, then turn far left again to see if steering locks up earlier then before (mark).

Beware, the column has ballbearings, so if worn, the slack can come from different places.
Adjustment of the worm may help but need not be the solution.
Opening up the front of the box gives the oppertunity to look at the lower ballbearing. While at it change the oil.

 

[Hoghead]

How to adjust the box as I imagine that it is easy to over adjust

 

[Randy Forbes]

How to adjust the box as I imagine that it is easy to over adjust

Everything you need to know, about this and other aspects of maintaining your car, can be found in the appropriate sections of the Bentley workshop manual: The Complete Official Austin-Healey 100/6 & 3000

It is a Must Have.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Official-...00%2F6+%26+3000

 

[elrey]

The manual is your friend.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Cool. Think they were out of print for a while--time to get one for the bookshelf (one in the boot already).

 

[John Turney]

Years ago, I posted this tip on the SOL pages. It makes adjusting the box easier that the way it's described in the Manual.

 

[Hoghead]

I have the BMC manual and was hoping for a tip like this to make it easier - thanks

2 inch or 2 x 4

 

[John Turney]

Cut a 2x2 2" long. You need 2" between the arm and the top plate. Hardwood is recomended, but not required.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Visual aid; I use steel, because I'll probably do this more than once...

You might find some of the pictures in my online gallery of some use for reference: www.spcarsplus@aol.com/gallery3

 

[Hoghead]

great stuff - thanks a lot

a 2 x 2 is really a 1.5 x 1.5
Perhaps it is not that critical as you both are using diferent dimensions?
A 2 x2 is easier for me and would prefer to go that way

 

[elrey]

You want to use something TWO inches tall. Not 1 1/2". If using wood, simply cut to size, Size DOES matter. Two inches is not 1 1/2 inches. Two inches is 2 inches. I believe this is done to approximate the median travel position of your suspension. One might as well do it as best as one can.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

A 7/16" (or larger) X 2" bolt works nicely.

 

[John Turney]

Elray is correct, you need 2" not 1 1/2". Like I said, cut a 2x2 2" long. Most of us don't do it often enough to need steel.