I'm at a loss. I've replaced the condenser, points, cap, coil (Lucas sports), and terminal with lead. All new parts from the Roadster Factory. Still no spark (and tested with the spark tester too). I have no idea what I could be missing. Thoughts?
As Elliot suggests, check the iggy switch. But you've introduced too many variables, now need to go backwards from the "no spark" at the plugs. With a test light (or better, a VOM), see if voltage is getting to the coil at the +12 side first, with the key in the run position. If 'yes' the issue is points, timing or the HT wire to the dizzy. If 'no' the problem is the wiring from there, back to the voltage supply. Is there an ignition fuse in a '72 (Been too long since I've seen one)? The switch is next. Check for voltage from the (IIRC it should be) brown wire at the switch. Voltage there means the switch is at fault. No volts and the problem is further toward the battery supply. Check to be sure the "fat" brown wire at the starter solenoid is secure. Since you've changed the oil filter, it's possible you may have inadvertently bumped or somehow loosened that. If all is good from solenoid, through the switch and out to coil, back under the hood...
With the cap off, iggy "on" and test light on the distributor side of the coil, the light should be on if points are open, off if closed (Be aware that if all that is working, the coil will "dump" high voltage to the cap as the points open, and you can get a surprise if you have body parts close to the HT lead from coil to cap!). If no light in either points condition, the voltage side of the points is shorted to ground in the dizzy. If the light stays on with points open or closed, the points are not making contact. Use some fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean both sides of the points.
If all that tests well, the HT lead to the cap is suspect first.
Hope something in all that helps.
BTW: How did you determine the engine timing after the changing of points, condenser, etc?