Metal Prep Work

[mcguijo]

Wasn't sure where to post this question, but figured I'd start with this forum. Time to prepare the fenders and bonnet of my TR3 for painting. I've decided to go the media blasting route (mainly because alot of rust has found its way into numerous nooks and corners on the panels). To cut the cost of media blasting, I'm going to do some prep work on the metal. I'm not above using aircraft stripper to remove paint and thus cut the time needed by someone else to blast. I've used the stuff before and realize it is very messy and probably cut a few years off my life. My concern is that I won't be able to remove the residual stripper from the forementioned nooks and corners. Do you all think that the media blasting following the paint stripping can remove all residual goo from the nooks and corners?

 

[LLAngus]

Yes, I've used that on my daughter's car. I found that I did have to do some sanding or media blasting after using aircraft stripper but it was not hard. You can get a gel stripper that works very well. Put cardboard or paper under what you are stripping and scraping. The Stripper will burn if you get it on unprotected parts of you, so I keep a 5 gallon bucket of water to rise off myself when burning accures.

 

[mcguijo]

After talking with a couple of media blasting guys, they say they DO NOT want to spray any cars that may have residual stripper on it. They reuse their media and do not want it contaminated. Makes sense to me.

BTW. .interviewed for a job once in Ukiah. . gorgeous place!

 

[Don Elliott]

I assume by "media blasting" that you will not use sand or sharp sand. If you use it on panels, the heat generated and the pressure will cause the panel to be permaently distorted.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG

 

[tony barnhill]

Don - gotta disagree with you that sand <u>"will"</u> distort panels...any media used improperly 'could' cause distortion...I've had complete cars & separate panels blasted with sand - multiple cars - with no panel distortion...however, the guy who does mine knows what he's doing!

 

[John Loftus]

I went with plastic media blasting on my car frame and panels (Healey 3000). On some areas with rust they used sand since it cuts better. Unfortunately there was distortion on some of the panels which required rework (I guess my guy didn't know what he was doing!). I would look into soda blasting next time .. only heard great things about this process. I don't think you are going to save any money by stripping the paint off first. It might even cost more by the time you buy the gallons of stripper and figure your time for the slow work of removing paint by hand.

Cheers,
John

 

[mcguijo]

I agree that there are probably people who can sand blast flat sheet metal well but there are those who can't and those who may be having an off day. Since the fenders on a TR3 are really the distinguishing feature, I'm opting for media (soda or plastic). I'll go back with glass on the boby tub (which I'm comfortable enough to do myself).

There is a very good thread about this on the hotrodders forum here

 

[Marvin Gruber]

I have restored several TR3's using sand blasting. First time we rented a big commerial unit. Worked well and fast. It did scare me that we might distort some metal. Later bought a small pressure pot "Tip 99", holds about a bag of sand. Goes a litte slow but you can control pressure and flow. That is the only way I will do a car now.

 

[tony barnhill]

Marvin - your dad sandblasted lots of his cars, didn't he?

 

[vping]

This almost sounds easy enough to do for the hobbyist with a "tip 99".
1 - Is this something that you can do in your garage or did you do it outside?
2 - What kind of protection do you need to wear or need for surrounding areas if doing inside or outside?
3 - What type/grit media should you use?
Finally what is the minimum size compressor one should use for this?
Right now I have more time than money so blasting it myself may be an option.

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
This almost sounds easy enough to do for the hobbyist with a "tip 99".
1 - Is this something that you can do in your garage or did you do it outside?
2 - What kind of protection do you need to wear or need for surrounding areas if doing inside or outside?
3 - What type/grit media should you use?
Finally what is the minimum size compressor one should use for this?
Right now I have more time than money so blasting it myself may be an option.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you are planning to do anything more than very small jobs, less than one square foot, it's not exactly low cost. You will have to spend some money. Assuming larger jobs:

1- It makes a huge mess. If you do it in the garage, everything will be contaminated. Even if you do it outside, it will make a huge mess. Some sort of containment, booth. tent, or other is needed.

2- Protective clothing & breathing equipment, especially important.

3- There are many types of media available, it depends on the job. Media will cost anywhere from $45 to $90 for 50 pounds.

4- A compressor with about 15 cfm capacity at 100 psi will be needed. The compressor will require a 240 volt supply.

For smaller jobs, a blast cabinet would be much better. It contains the mess & you don't need protective equipment.You will still need the compressor though.
You can go here & check "abrasive blasting"
https://www.eastwood.com/
D

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Tony,

Dad and I sandblasted all the cars that we did complete restoration on. My E type and the Apollo were sand blasted.
He stripped the BJ8 and we were ready to blast it when he got sick. That will be one of my projects to finish when I retire next year.

As far as the "Tip 99". It works pretty good with a 5 hp compressor. Try to maintain around 90 psi. We have a spare tank that we series in line when we are blasting. It keeps the volume up and increases blasting time. We have used plain construction sand and blast outside well away from any structure or other cars. No clean up this way. Wear coveralls,the hood that comes with "99" and always wear resporator. Now this is not the best enviromental way but I never blast over an hour at a time anyway. Maybe blast the frame one day, prep and prime it. Do couple of fenders next and so on until complete. Beats waiting on someone else to get to the job.

 

[vping]

Marvin,

Sounds doable. I happen to have a 5HP 20gal compressor with a spare 20 gallon tank and draw off the spare.

Where can I get a tip 99 and do you have a link to a site where I can get one?

The car is a Midget. Half of it is rust so there's not much left to blast.

Thanks.