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Fix the 180 out of the dizzy first. It’s very easy!
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Ignition Failure
- Thread starter RDKeysor
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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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I've been slow on the uptake for this; usually, people usually pose Pertronix questions while they're installing. Pertronix, unlike points, switches current to the coil 'upstream' of the coil, unlike points, which switch current to ground (through the distributor). Because of this, many/most just run a permanent ground from the coil to the engine or chassis; I chose to retain the 'anti-theft' aspect by switching terminals on the cutoff switch. With points, you should see battery voltage, or close to it, at the coil 'SW' side to a ground when the key is in the run or start position; since the Pertronix switches current there may or may not be voltage; I have no idea how much since I don't know the internal resistance of an Ignitor. To my knowledge, no Big Healeys employ a ballast resistor--neither my BN2 or BJ8 have them--but they will reduce voltage/current to the coil when running (full voltage for starting).
Writing this gave my a thought, though: Check the thin, unshielded wire from the distributor points plate to the body of the distributor. Not sure what role this plays with a Pertronix--a ground reference, maybe--but, regardless, it should be in good shape.
Writing this gave my a thought, though: Check the thin, unshielded wire from the distributor points plate to the body of the distributor. Not sure what role this plays with a Pertronix--a ground reference, maybe--but, regardless, it should be in good shape.
As I reported, I had only 8 volts at the positive (SW) wire on the coil, key on, using a multimeter versus 12 volts at the battery. I'll double check what I assume is the ground wire Yoda refers to in his post. I long for a way to test my Pertronix, which I now feel has failed. Another responder also suggested that I address fact that my distributor is 180 degrees away from the proper orientation. I will consider doing that. I am also getting, to my surprise, material about the Pertronix devices on You Tube. One of our trusted experts at the St. Johns Austin Healey Club here in the Jacksonville, FL, area has recommended replacing the distributor, etc. My BN7 is a very nice car and a great driver, but a review of the receipts I've kept in 11 years of ownership tell me it is a money pit.
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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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If you have stranded copper secondary wires consider them; the Roadkill guys had exactly the same symptoms running various electronic ignitions on an old Chevy with copper wires. If you're running resistor plugs one or more could have gone bad; if you have an AM radio nearby tune between stations and you'll hear the plugs firing.
Looking back to the comment that the copper wire pulled out of the washer or connector; soldering these ends could/will prevent this problem. All automotive connectors that you install should be crimped and soldered. OEM's use commercial crimping tools and usually do not have this problem, I do not know what Healey used back then. Note this does not work for resistance plug wires.
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Solder is usually never a bad idea. Having agreed with your observation I'm pretty sure it would not have prevented what happened to me as the solid stranded ignition wires were just old and work hardened from years of engine vibration. Mine probably would have sheared where the solder ended. Even stripping back the insulation, the wire that broke on me was brittle. New wires of any sort were a better solution for me. If I could only figure out how to anneal the copper inside the insulation.......
EWD
Senior Member
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Recently went through a lot of this on my TR6. ( Erratic running and engine shutting down)After extensive checking coil, Petronix, fuel lines, and most everything else; it ended up being the ignition switch. One of the wires appeared connected, but was not. Repair was simply a new wire connector.
Just thought I would throw this in as something to check.
Good luck.
Just thought I would throw this in as something to check.
Good luck.
My long blab about the failures with my '60 BN7 are recounted above. This eventually included two failed aftermarket fuel pumps, two fried PerTronix units, two fried 50-amp fuses, etc. The electronic ignition units and the fuses were cooked, I think, by a short associated with a contact at the light switch. Ultimately, a fellow club member installed a traditional set of points in the car followed by a new coil, new distributor cap and then another breakdown. No spark plug action. Ultimately this failure, to my surprise, was cured by installing a new rotor. How a rotor can fail, and fail they do, puzzles me.
Now there is another issue and it seems to be carburation. Nothing was touched on the carbs during all of the electrical fixes. However, with the installation of the points, the car requires a lot of choke to start. It previously started and ran perfectly with slight choke use. Now, it is slow to start, barks, and will only run initially with an extended use of the choke and fluttering the accelerator. As an example, I had this issue upon start up this morning and the car ran unevenly for possibly a mile, not recovering its idle at stops without the choke or throttle. Car then ran fine at 50 mph for seven miles. After setting for an hour, it started promptly and ran perfectly on the drive home. After it sat in the garage for an hour, it started with a push of the starter button and no throttle. I might add that back before my electrical problems began this car idled at about 1200 rpm and defied my effort to slow it down. I am now considering taking the carbs back to the factory manual suggested starting points after doing a partial disassembly and inspection. It appears to me the choke functions as it should but it is certainly suspect. I think the choke pull unit is a factory item, but it does not have the twist-lock with the knob.
Now there is another issue and it seems to be carburation. Nothing was touched on the carbs during all of the electrical fixes. However, with the installation of the points, the car requires a lot of choke to start. It previously started and ran perfectly with slight choke use. Now, it is slow to start, barks, and will only run initially with an extended use of the choke and fluttering the accelerator. As an example, I had this issue upon start up this morning and the car ran unevenly for possibly a mile, not recovering its idle at stops without the choke or throttle. Car then ran fine at 50 mph for seven miles. After setting for an hour, it started promptly and ran perfectly on the drive home. After it sat in the garage for an hour, it started with a push of the starter button and no throttle. I might add that back before my electrical problems began this car idled at about 1200 rpm and defied my effort to slow it down. I am now considering taking the carbs back to the factory manual suggested starting points after doing a partial disassembly and inspection. It appears to me the choke functions as it should but it is certainly suspect. I think the choke pull unit is a factory item, but it does not have the twist-lock with the knob.
