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LED headlights

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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Doing some research into upgrading the Healey headlights.

In order to do that, the stock seal beam housing needs to be replaced with one that can accept an H4 bulb.

1. Halogen set up, wire gauge should be increased, add replays, add new wire from solenoid to relays, inline fuse.
2. HID set up, wire gauge should be increased, add replays, add new wire from solenoid to relays, inline fuse.
3. LED's can use stock wire, don't think relays are needed, no inline fuse in that case.

Has anyone changed to LED in their Healey or regular driver?
 
At the moment NOT
but I am studying to apply LED to my Norton Commando 1974 and My MG TD 1952 that have some electric problems with High absorption lights
te better advantage is that LED absorb 1,3A (each) and have more efficient light (+30%) on the Halogen-obvious relays aren't needed to control low absorb
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J5VtvzUqKLUitdQJtNCABsOqp_2K03OwchQoZ6Y4GrM?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uGfyqHqjMPwRFA7JrR_IesOqp_2K03OwchQoZ6Y4GrM?feat=directlink
and more photos here
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...&authkey=Gv1sRgCPaY2JSzwZr4Iw&feat=directlink
My difficult on Norton headLight is the different socket (it use Pre focus lamp 414)
I have ordered a copy for my MG TD that have 410 P45 Halogen lamp with spade compatible with H4 and H3 lamp
easy to find on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-CREE-50...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4278fba9&vxp=mtr
 
Halogens fitted here, also. I earlier upgraded to relays with same wiring, mostly to take the load off the switch and to allow the diving lights to work only with high beams.
 
I too am running halogens. I added the relays. If you don't you'll fry the dash headlight switch.
I however did not upgrade to thicker grade wire and wondering if the halogen bulbs are getting all the current they need.
Also wondering it the stock wires are under load and may be at risk.

I could run new thicker gauge wire to the relays which I put under my dash. I didn't want the relays in the engine compartment because they may get wet and it's hot there.

If I go LED, no need to run new wire. Plus the LED will be brighter than halogens.
 
andrea said:
At the moment NOT
but I am studying to apply LED to my Norton Commando 1974 and My MG TD 1952 that have some electric problems with High absorption lights
te better advantage is that LED absorb 1,3A (each) and have more efficient light (+30%) on the Halogen-obvious relays aren't needed to control low absorb
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J5VtvzUqKLUitdQJtNCABsOqp_2K03OwchQoZ6Y4GrM?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uGfyqHqjMPwRFA7JrR_IesOqp_2K03OwchQoZ6Y4GrM?feat=directlink
and more photos here
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...&authkey=Gv1sRgCPaY2JSzwZr4Iw&feat=directlink
My difficult on Norton headLight is the different socket (it use Pre focus lamp 414)
I have ordered a copy for my MG TD that have 410 P45 Halogen lamp with spade compatible with H4 and H3 lamp
easy to find on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-CREE-50...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4278fba9&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

I've just started looking into the many H4 LED conversion kits that are available.
Here's one that's really bright:
3200lumen Light Kit 6500k
https://www.ebay.com/itm/351133970270?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
John Turney said:
Are you SURE LEDs would be brighter?
Click to expand...

Hi John,
I can't say for sure, being I have not seen a car in person with them yet.
However, I've read that they are 100%-200% brighter than halogen.
I've also watched many Youtube videos that show comparisons of Halogen vs HID vs LED on the same car. LED's are the whitest of the 3 and do seem the brightest. These were in the 5000k-6000k.

Here's one from Youtube, LED vs Halogen.
 
A Motor Trend comparison of the 2009 Cadillac Escalade with various types of headlights indicates the LEDs are brighter, but it's not in a round configuration. https://blogs.motortrend.com/blinde...led-headlamps-with-hidxenon-halogen-2069.html

One of the complaints, though, is from oncoming drivers. I notice in the video that the halogens have a better, sharper cut-off than the LEDs. That's likely because the light source is a small point instead of a (relatively) broader area.

Maybe LEDs in a driving light configuration where oncoming drivers are not an issue.
 
DerekJ said:
If your bulb is 60 watts and you have 12 volt power, which you do, then the current is only 5 amps.
Click to expand...

Per bulb. Some of the wiring and the switch(s) will see 10 amps.
 
AUSMHLY said:
Hi John,
I can't say for sure, being I have not seen a car in person with them yet.
However, I've read that they are 100%-200% brighter than halogen.
I've also watched many Youtube videos that show comparisons of Halogen vs HID vs LED on the same car. LED's are the whitest of the 3 and do seem the brightest. These were in the 5000k-6000k.

Here's one from Youtube, LED vs Halogen.
Click to expand...

This doesn't look like a fair comparison. The LEDs have a pile of snow on both sides of the road that will reflect more light. Also the guy running is different in each shot to show light falloff. He starts at different times and runs at different speeds.
 
Yes led lamps are brighter.

To verify this check the "Lumen" out put of the led bulb you intend to use againt that of your existing head lamp bulbs.


OH" That Greg fela got that total current drawn correct.--:applause:
 
Again, Roger has come up with an intriguing project that modernizes our Classic Healeys incognito. As one that has upgraded both wiring and components to support Halogens and driving lights, I find conversion to increased LED high output headlights to be unnecessary…if not disturbing. Although possibly improving the view of the driver, it has become less uncommon for me to be blinded by oncoming vehicles that seem comfortable as long as they can see well.

In looking into Roger’s project and follow-on discussion, 2 main thoughts pop to mind.
I understand that each LED headlights require base cooling fans and ballast units. Will this additional power draw and space requirement create any difficulty to the Healey’s wiring and space limitations or be adversely affected by its hot engine compartment?

In my discussions with many Healey owners over the years, I have found few that have ever understood or took the time to properly aim their headlights or driving lights. This was a concern before finding that most really do not drive at night.

In my experience, LED output is directional and although Lumen output is an indicator, falls off dramatically from center line. Although I would expect these bulbs will capitalize upon a well designed reflector to forward-direct light, I would expect overall performance to be a function of how each compliments the other.

I am not trying to be negative as I am one that is intrigued by this type of project.

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:
RAC68 said:
... In my experience, LED output is directional and although Lumen output is an indicator, falls off dramatically from center line. Although I would expect these bulbs will capitalize upon a well designed reflector to forward-direct light, I would expect overall performance to be a function of how each compliments the other. ...

Ray (64BJ8P1)
Click to expand...
That's why Cadillac used 7 LEDs per side, all aimed slightly differently.
 
RAC68 said:
As one that has upgraded both wiring and components to support Halogens and driving lights, I find conversion to increased LED high output headlights to be unnecessary…if not disturbing.
Click to expand...
The main appeal of an LED conversion is you don't have to upgrade any of the wiring or add relays. The power consumption is much less than the original headlights, halogens or HIDs.

RAC68 said:
In looking into Roger’s project and follow-on discussion, 2 main thoughts pop to mind.
I understand that each LED headlights require base cooling fans and ballast units.
Click to expand...
Cooling fans for almost all, or a large heatsink. No ballasts, some have a constant current driver, some don't. A ballast for a headlight would usually be found with HID systems. Used for high voltage starting.

RAC68 said:
Will this additional power draw and space requirement create any difficulty to the Healey’s wiring and space limitations or be adversely affected by its hot engine compartment?
Click to expand...
The headlights aren't in the engine compartment, they're in the wheel well. I think the biggest issue would be road debris being kicked up by the tires and clogging the fan.

RAC68 said:
In my discussions with many Healey owners over the years, I have found few that have ever understood or took the time to properly aim their headlights or driving lights.
Click to expand...
I would suspect that happens with any car or truck.

RAC68 said:
In my experience, LED output is directional and although Lumen output is an indicator, falls off dramatically from center line.
Click to expand...
That depends on how the LED is assembled. I switched to an LED in my old ceiling fixture in the dining room. Very even light except straight up where the socket is. My flashlights however, have a narrow beam.

RAC68 said:
Although I would expect these bulbs will capitalize upon a well designed reflector to forward-direct light, I would expect overall performance to be a function of how each compliments the other.
Click to expand...
Absolutely, using a reflector designed for the bulb would help greatly in getting the light where it need to go.
 
Hi Greg,

The external box that seems to be referred to in some write-ups as a ballast could, in fact, be a separate box housing the bulb's external power connector and electronics needed to switch the LEDs between high and low beam light output. Due to its size and separation, I would expect it would be much safer if it were not installed in the wheel well with the bulb.

I understand that the LEDs do draw less current but am not sure what the draw actually is. When considering the flow of a Healey's headlight power, from source to beam, and considering the number of connectors, original wiring gauge, switching components, and level of circuit protection, I would still be concerned to implement this type of modern technology if any of these units were original.

Thanks for the correction.
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:
I'm sure the current draw is different for every product model sold. If only slightly. I was looking resently at some 9000 lumen arrays for a 1k watt studio light.3 arrays looked about equal to the 1k incandescent bulb (on paper), but would only use 300 watts. So that's about 8.5 amps vs. 2.5.
 
GregW said:
I'm sure the current draw is different for every product model sold. If only slightly. I was looking resently at some 9000 lumen arrays for a 1k watt studio light.3 arrays looked about equal to the 1k incandescent bulb (on paper), but would only use 300 watts. So that's about 8.5 amps vs. 2.5.
Click to expand...

HI Even consdering a line voltage of 240 volts the led still beats the incandesent 1KW lamp.
 
Oh, I forgot. The 100 watt arrays I was looking at run on 36 volts. Thanks for jogging the brain there Keoke.
 
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