What's the Secret- Keeping New Aluminun Shut Face Finishers Looking New?

[jjs64bj8]

All,

We are installing new shut face finishers on our 1964 BJ8. You know the shinny pebbled aluminum 3 piece set on each side that goes on the door jam, across the rocker and inner sill, and holds down the carpet inside along the inner sill. The look terrific now but it seems even fingerprints start to discolor them.

How do you maintain them? We all try to keep our paint, chrome, interior, clean and polished.

So what do all of you do to keep the finishers looking new- Polish?, WD-40?, Clear acrylic spray paint?, What?

Thanks

jjs64bj8

 

[HealeyRick]

https://www.californiacustom.com/purple_metal_polish.html

 

[Randy Forbes]

My new/replacement threshold trims are staying fresh by just using a "spritzer" on them, same as I do for the paint.

In the past, I've used Meguiar's, Mother's (smells like cinnamon to me ) and something else, all with similar results, but for the several years, I have been very pleased with this product, surpassing anything the other detail sprays are capable of:

https://www.chemicalguys.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=wac_808

It's available in 4-oz, 16-oz and gallon sizes; once you try it, you'll opt for the gallons (I keep a couple of generic spray bottles in each garage, and a small bottle in the boot of each car).

TIP: after washing the car, mist this stuff on the wet surface and dry as usual; it immediately cuts the surface tension and most of the water RUNS (like a mad dash, really) off the panels! Leaves the paint sparkling, streak-free and protected.

Getting back to the aluminum trim, to clean up oxidation and make original pieces look like brand new again, I would use Naval Jelly for Aluminum. You'll want to do this with the pieces off the car, but it will make them Bright-White again! I don't remember seeing this stuff on the shelves like I used to, so I hope it's still around...

 

[vette]

clean them up with real fine steel wool, then spray them with urethane clearcoat. These were done in the early spring and there is no deterioration of the finish and the clearcoat sticks real good.

 

[Top Down Resto]

Use Gibbs , wipe on wipe off, super stuff

 

[jjs64bj8]

Is Top Down Restro referring to their spray lubricant?

This stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Brand-Lubricant-2-12oz-cans/dp/B00AFJXIJQ

Thanks to all so far, look like a mix of polish, a "spritzer", steel wool urethane clearcoat, and a lubricant. Any others?

I actually tried the steel wool and clear spray on one of the old pieces and while the steel wool (fine 0000) cleans it up nice, I found when the urethane dries, it make it actually look duller. Maybe I am using the wrong spray. I am not using the satin?

Thanks

jjs64bj8

 

[vette]

Yes JJ, some clear coats will make the colour just alittle darker. especially if you are using a spray can clear. For the clear coat to be the brightest and to last you must use a catalysed, two part, clear urethane such as made by PPG or other automotive paint producers. If your spraying is not up to snuff you can also wet sand it with a 1500 grit paper then buff it. Just like they do when they clear coat your car. In my case I was very happy to just get it clean, shiny & protected because not only were mine, cut up, bent up, and torn but when I bought the car they were painted black of all things. I think they came out pretty good considering. I might suggest that you use some kind of buffing compound for silver or brass as Randy mentioned. That might make it brighter than the fine steel wool. But you would really have to make sure you get all that compound off before you clear coat it because it might affect adhesion. I really don't know. i believed the steel wool finish would help the adhesion.

 

[Top Down Resto]

Yes thats the correct Gibbs.. if you have new shutface panels use the Gibbs, I would not try and scuff for clearcoat or clearcoat at all . The originals were a satin aluminum base and the raised dots were polished. The dots are only protruding a few thou of an in. and you will never be able to scuff or polish them without touching the satin lower part. The whole point is to protect the alum surface from corroding to a duller grey as they did from 50 plus years of driving in all kinds of climates.I would just use a protectant and clean /reapply as needed.