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TR6 TR6 Burning/losing oil, what do you think?

2wrench

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Good news is: Went for a drive of about 500 miles.
Fun time and loved it.

Bad news: Driving car hard, 3,000 rpm sustained with
some spurts higher and/or changing gears from start
at 4,000 or so yeilds rapid oil loss.

Rapid oil loss is: Slightly more than one full quart
in 500 miles.

Slight oil leaking toward front of car like under the
fan pulleys or something contributes.

Valve job done about 6,000 miles ago. Car has 105K on
engine.

Ya think I got some problems going on at the low end of
the engine? What should I do to check it out?

Oh, yeah, running GTX Castrol 20-50. I know, probably not
right, huh? Still a bit confused about what oil to use.
Think I'm supposed to go to motorcycle oil or something.
 
One quart in 500mi is a bit much and you might want to do something about that. If the lower end hasen't been done in 30 years the seals most likely are leaking and are coating your undercarrage with a good rust proofing of oil! Not to mention the bearing shells are in need of replacing (this will show up as low oil pressure). Also when the head was done did you have valve seals and new guides put in? Triumph didn't use seals but some rebuilders do now, and it could be that the rings are not sealing properly anymore.... Does the car smoke? look for an oily film at the rear of the car. The good part is rebuilding the lower end is fairly easy if all you need to do is replace front and rear seals. While your there you should drop the pan and replace rod, main bearing shells and thrust washers if the crank looks even close to being smooth. This will buy you a few more years unless it turns out to be the ring issue or the crank is really scored or etc... etc... and it goes on! Oh, the Castrol 20/50 is fine. IMO put a moderen screw on oil filter kit.

Hope this helps,
-jim
 
2wrench said:
Bad news: Driving car hard, 3,000 rpm sustained with
some spurts higher and/or changing gears from start
at 4,000 or so yeilds rapid oil loss.

Rapid oil loss is: Slightly more than one full quart
in 500 miles.

Slight oil leaking toward front of car like under the
fan pulleys or something contributes....
That might be no more than the oil seal on the timing cover in front. That or any other obvious leak(s) might be tended to, but if you're not leaving trails of heavy blue smoke, you could be just fine otherwise....
 
Agree with Andy (as usual); doing a valve job may increase crankcase pressure and force oil out through poor seals. (The compression you were losing through poor valve seal is now forced downwards past the worn rings, and increasing pressure in the crankcase.)
Simon.
 
All of the above is good sound advice.
The place to start is the P.C.V. system, make sure it is in proper order and working as intended.
If it is working properly it should remove any excessive crankcase pressure. {unless of course there is more pressure there due to worn rings than it can handle}
Typicaly in my experiance, doing the top end {Valve job} on a realitividly high mileage engine most times will result in oil consumption due to inceased crankcase pressures caused by worn rings. Understandably this excess pressure has to have an escape rout IE. front/rear seals. {as it can no longer escape through the topside of the engine}

Normaly what makes crankshaft seals vunerable to leakage is worn main bearings, as the engine is running, the crankshaft is "For the lack of a better term" Bouncing {not to be misconstrewed as bouncing like a basketball, but more like ever so slightly} in the main journals, in effect wearing the sealing surface of the seal itself. Replacing the seals only, can buy you some time. But in the long run will not solve the problem.

If ensuring that the P.C.V. system is in working order does not remedy the issue, replacing the seals will be the next cheapest fix. The question is ............ How long will this fix last? Only time will tell.



Just my 2 cents worth on what I know about engines, taught to me by one outstanding wrench. {My Dad. R.I.P.}

Kerry
 
You didn't just install an alloy valve cover or auxillary oil line, did you?
 
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