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Soft top to window adjustment?

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memphis

memphis

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello!

Are there any adjustments that can be made on the soft top frame, and/or side window in order for the window to get closer to the rubber seal on the soft top.

My left side (drivers) fits really well. My right side (pass) has about a 1 inch gap between the top of the window and the soft top frame. This gap is mainly towards the rear.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Bob :smile:
'65 AH 3000 MKIII
 
Scanning some of the posts, maybe my issue can be solved by removing the shims from the bottom of the frame where it attaches to the body?

Do I need to remove the interior side panels to get access to these shims?

Thanks, Bob
'65 AH 3000 MKIII
 
On the MKIII I just fitted a new top to, the shim stack was probably just under 1/8" (>.125") so I don't think you'll see much of a gain from there.

Are you certain that the wooden cant rails are of the correct shape?

On the particular car I'm working on, the top frame joints have enough wear, that the driver's side (LHD) cant rail actually sits too low.

If you're so inclined, pictures of the entire top replacement process, up to this point, can be seen here: https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album208?page=1

IMG_3351.sized.jpg


IMG_3352.sized.jpg


IMG_3564.sized.jpg


IMG_3584.sized.jpg


IMG_3585.sized.jpg


Please note that these pictures were taken before the car was parked in the sun, so some of the "packaging wrinkles" are still evident. Considering that it was my first BJ8 top (out of perhaps 30-40 top installations) I think the results are fantastic. YIMV.
 
memphis said:
Scanning some of the posts, maybe my issue can be solved by removing the shims from the bottom of the frame where it attaches to the body?

<span style="font-weight: bold">Do I need to remove the interior side panels to get access to these shims?</span>

Thanks, Bob
'65 AH 3000 MKIII
Click to expand...
I had them out for the above illustrated work, but I think you could get to them with minimal interior invasion; not that I think you'll gain much from it.
 
Hello Randy,

Thanks for your reply & post. Your pics look nice and are a great help in understanding how the top is assembled. Not sure if my bows are the correct shape? Just purchased car and it has been totally restored. This is one of the items that needs to be worked on, tweaked to get as close as possible. I know it will never fit perfect, but I'm sure a 1" gap was not there when new?
I'll try and take some pics and post.
Thanks again!
 
Bob,
Something is way off. One inch is huge.
Assuming the window is in the correct place when up and the glass has the correct shape, the wood should follow the curve of the window. You might compare the wood on each side to each other and see if they have the same curve, thickness, etc. Check both sides the top frame and hinged areas and make sure they are mirrored.

I spent a lot of time on moving/shifting/bending the aluminum rails that holds the rubber seal around the window. That allowed me to get a water/wind tight seal. But you have to get the top frame set up correctly first. I had a shop send the frame out, bead blast then power coat it. They did a good job positioning the frame. Not so good with the rubber seal placement. I redid that job.

Bob, we may never get it perfect, but with an understanding of how the top works and tweaking the parts you can get it pretty close. I spent weeks on the rubber seal positioning.

Can you post some photos of the drivers side and passenger sides for us to see?

Cheers,
Roger
 
Hello Roger,

Thank you. I will take some pics this evening when I get home from work and post them.

I really appreciate all of your help and the help of others on this forum.

This is my first AH and not sure what is normal or not. I would have to say that the gap that I currently have is excessive and I cant imagine it would have been this way when new. These cars are expected to leak a bit, bit in my case, it would be pouring into the car if I got caught in the rain.

Thanks again,
Bob
 
Well Bob, some adjustment is possible. However, in your case the side to side imbalance is due to a poor installation.

ONTOH, as you can see looking at all the pictures presented by others in that area the tops rarely fit snug on the sides.
My understanding here is the patterns were made from an original which had shrunk the vinyl shrinks after installation too,
and the tops become too small in that area.

With this in mind there is an American top maker on E Bay that makes a top with a restraining cable in it this cable prevents the installed top from shrinking in this area.
I do not know if you can buy the cables separately or not, but it is the only way I know to control this problem.-Fwiw--Keoke
 
Hey, Roger. I bet you had a few drips last Sunday in Morgan Hill! I sure did.

Now!!!! that is tellin it just like it gonna be.--Keoke- :laugh:
 
Related, although not much help to the original question, I met a guy at Morgan Hill who was a BMC mechanic at one time somewhere in Minnesota. Owners of LBCs would come in complaining about the fit of the top. The service manager would tell them "Hey, it's a sports car." He said they would go away satisfied that it was suppose to be that way.
 
Keoke said:
With this in mind there is an American top maker on E Bay that makes a top with a restraining cable in it this cable prevents the installed top from shrinking in this area.
I do not know if you can buy the cables separately or not, but it is the only way I know to control this problem.-Fwiw--Keoke
Click to expand...

A good top installer should be able to incorporate a cable.
The place that did mine, installed one in my Robbins top.
 
John Turney said:
Owners of LBCs would come in complaining about the fit of the top. The service manager would tell them "Hey, it's a sports car." He said they would go away satisfied that it was suppose to be that way.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that is true.
I remember growing up with my dad's 64 bj8 and the moldy smell it had. That was because the water would soak into the carpet and jute. That's one of the reasons why the floors rusted out. The tar paper would crack and the wet jute would start the rusting process.
 
Bob,
Beautiful car!

From the photos the window appears to be as high as it should go. It's level with the top of the vent window frame.

Seems the sides of the top are not low enough. The window glass should be pressing against the side of the rubber trim, not touching the bottom of it.

I think the metal frame and the wood side pieces may need adjusting to let the top sit a little lower. Once that is done, then the top cover may need to be refit.

Have you had a convertible top place look at it?
 
I agree with Roger that the wood side pieces are worth a look at. If you look at the picture Roger posted, you'll see that the wood is not flush with the leading edge of the metal frame, but set forward and below it.
 

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Bob, I just took these photos.
Notice the difference between the drivers frame alignment and the passenger side.

Photos:
1. Drivers side frame.
2. Passenger side frame.
3. Passenger side wood.
4. Passenger top of glass to top gap size
5. Passenger glass rear curve
 
Thanks Guys!!!

That makes sense! Drop the wood bows. I had another local club member suggest the same thing. I need to find a good local top shop, dont want to try this one myself since it will require adjustment of the canvas.
Thanks again!
Bob :smile:
 
Went out and took some additional pictures from the "inside".

https://picasaweb.google.com/mercedes280sl/SoftTop?authkey=Gv1sRgCIi70IzAhp7BSQ#

What do you guys think? The drivers side (left) is not perfect, but does have a better window to top fit. The pass side (right) is the biggest issue. It does look like the wood bows on the drivers side sit lower.

Is there enough "meat" in the wood bows for them to be loosened, lowered, new holes drilled in, etc...?

Thanks!!!
Bob
 
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