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JamesWilson
Yoda
Offline
I've a new chassis with outriggers already fit to it. I've also new sills to attach. When trial fitting the sills to the chassis I found a 1/4" gap where the outer end of the front outrigger is not covered by the lower "flange" from the sill:
After checking with the vendors I've been assured that the supplied parts are correct.
I've looked at two different Healeys and seen two different solutions. BOTH claim to be untouched originals.
One makes the "adjustment" at the top, setting the sill down into the outrigger:
The other makes the "adjustment at the bottom:
The sides of the outriggers have a wedge cut out and the bottoms bent up and welded into place giving a flat bottom level with the bottoms of the sills.
For what it is worth, the "top" adjusted one is a later model BJ8, the "bottom" one an early BJ8 with single turn signals. Both photos are of the right hand side, but one looks forward while the other looks back. Both right and left sides of both cars show similar treatment.
My own car is a very late 1967 BJ8.
It seems that "notching" the front outrigger and lowering the sill 1/4" that way would be both easier and consistent with the later BJ8 I've seen...
But I am worried about the sills alignment and keeping to the required 3" measure from the top of the outriggers to the top of the sills. Will this approach cause problems for the mounting of the doors and their alignment and "gaps" relative to the other body panels?
Leaving the outrigger tops alone and maintaining the sill heights would seem better for door mounting.
Should I:
a) Weld a little plate in to cover the gap, and not chop up the outriggers.
b) Notch the tops and drop the sills to cover the gap as per later BJ8s seem to do.
c) "Flatten" the ends of the outriggers cutting wedges from their sides and bring the the bottom up to match the sill bottoms as the earlier one seem to do.
d) Leave them open?!??
e) buy an MG.....
I think my preference is for c) but....
Has anyone else encountered this problem?
What is the recommended solution?
After checking with the vendors I've been assured that the supplied parts are correct.
I've looked at two different Healeys and seen two different solutions. BOTH claim to be untouched originals.
One makes the "adjustment" at the top, setting the sill down into the outrigger:
The other makes the "adjustment at the bottom:
The sides of the outriggers have a wedge cut out and the bottoms bent up and welded into place giving a flat bottom level with the bottoms of the sills.
For what it is worth, the "top" adjusted one is a later model BJ8, the "bottom" one an early BJ8 with single turn signals. Both photos are of the right hand side, but one looks forward while the other looks back. Both right and left sides of both cars show similar treatment.
My own car is a very late 1967 BJ8.
It seems that "notching" the front outrigger and lowering the sill 1/4" that way would be both easier and consistent with the later BJ8 I've seen...
But I am worried about the sills alignment and keeping to the required 3" measure from the top of the outriggers to the top of the sills. Will this approach cause problems for the mounting of the doors and their alignment and "gaps" relative to the other body panels?
Leaving the outrigger tops alone and maintaining the sill heights would seem better for door mounting.
Should I:
a) Weld a little plate in to cover the gap, and not chop up the outriggers.
b) Notch the tops and drop the sills to cover the gap as per later BJ8s seem to do.
c) "Flatten" the ends of the outriggers cutting wedges from their sides and bring the the bottom up to match the sill bottoms as the earlier one seem to do.
d) Leave them open?!??
e) buy an MG.....
I think my preference is for c) but....
Has anyone else encountered this problem?
What is the recommended solution?
