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TR6 New front shocks & air in clutch

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pdplot

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Expert friend came over today and installed new front KYB shocks. Before dismantling, he thought the old ones were good - but disconnected, they seemed to be frozen and hardly worked. He also tightened 6 bolts in the convertible top so much less rattles and car rides much better now on our bumpy back roads. Who knew top bolts had to be tightened? When he came back from the test ride, I went to move the car back to the garage but the clutch pedal felt "loose" and did not work. I had to pump it up several times to make it work. He had removed the aluminum cap and wiped it thoroughly to make it easier to remove and replace as it was corroded. Could that have introduced air into the system? I don't see how if the fluid level was full. Somehow air is getting into the system. The clutch has always worked perfectly in all the years I've owned this car. Any ideas?
 
Why not just bleed the clutch? You will know right away if there’s air in the system. Make sure to top up the fluid in the master.
 
That involves laying under the car. Something I don't do any more. Oh for a lift.
I'm going to put some cardboard under the clutch slave to see if its leaking. CMC is still full.
My friend is still on call. I pay him $40/hour. He's been playing with these cars for years. Had 16 in his yard at one time.
 
I'm beginning to think its the clutch MC. If you push the pedal hard, it goes down smoothly. If you push it slowly, it seems to drag and pulsate - like something like a rubber seal is catching in the bore. The pedal occasionally makes a sharp bang at the bottom of its travel - been doing that for about a year. Sounds like its coming from the pivot point. I checked the Alfa clutch. Its smooth either fast or slow. What am I looking at? I never had any trouble from a hydraulic clutch.
 
I put the old shocks (Armstrongs) in a vise and tested them. One did not move one inch, the other barely with a strong pull. No wonder my car was riding hard. Lessen learned. If your car is riding very hard, check your shocks. One or more may be frozen. The clutch problem is next.
 
Perhaps your clutch slave cylinder is acting up? Seems like I have had to rebuild mine every 5 or 6 years. It’s relatively easy to do and the parts are not expensive. Hardest part is going under the car to get at it.
 
I bit the bullet and ordered both MC and SC from TRF. I think they are both original to the car. The brake MC was replaced by a PO back in 1986 but the car has not been driven much since then so still ok.
 
I read online (where else?) that it was unnecessary to pump the clutch pedal when bleeding - that gravity bleeding was enough but making sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. Is this true? That makes it a one-man job.
 
If the bleed nipple is above the inlet hose, the air should be able to escape given time.
 
That's how I intend to install the replacement - bleed nipple up.
There may be a problem with the clutch pedal itself - perhaps the pivot point is worn and that's the occasional bang I hear - like the clevis pin reseating itself. Anyone have that problem?
 
You guys are all right on; pumping the brakes is one thing some times needed. but the clutch won't work because of the pressure return from the pressure plate. The bleed nipple up is also correct. but there is still a small air pocket I have found. Two things I have done to not have a problem. Remove the plastics line and replace with a Aeroquip line and install from front to back on plate this way you can hang the slave cyl straight down and open nipple no pumping. You are still under the car but you wife is not needed. Or you system is shot and need anew
Madflyer
 
Backed the car out of the garage today. No problem.
As soon as it heard I ordered new parts - it cured itself. Right?
 
I didn't order a new flex hydraulic clutch line to go along with the new CMC and CSC. Should I have? Is the armored upgrade necessary? There seems to be a difference of opinion.
 
I went through a CMC and slave cylinder rebuild recently. My $.02 is that a braided steel line is overkill, especially given the cost, but if you're using DOT5 in the clutch, you might benefit from that small extra amount of pressure it provides. During the rebuild I switched the clutch from DOT3 to DOT5 (thank goodness, because it was on the verge of leaking out onto the firewall) and I replaced my plastic hose when I did mine, mostly just on principle, a new hose is cheap and I was worried the old one was getting brittle. However, with the switch to DOT5 I noticed that I wasn't getting quite the same throw length on the pushrod, and had to move it up to the first hole to sufficiently actuate the clutch. So in that case, a braided line might have helped mollify the problem.
 
There are three holes to clutch arm to get full clutch operation of clutch. but each will change more or less pressure need to clutch peddle. Best having all air out and true air will slowly work it's way up to MC. It does not take much slop in holes, pins at cylinder and peddle to have clutch problems in shifting and right pumping is no help. Madflyer
 
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