TR2/3/3A Looking for the Voice of Experience

[LeGrande]

I just bought a basket case 1960 TR, taking over a failed project. I was bored and needed a challenge and boy, I got one! My first month has been spent reading about them, inventorying the boxes of parts and uncovering patches of fiberglass and bondo covering ragged and rusty holes. There have been new floors, sills and quarter panels tacked in place. I have hung fenders and door on one side and everything seems to be in the right places. I have a plan for fixing the rear deck/wheel arch. What I'd like advice on is cage nuts. I have about 90 old ones to remove and replace. Any tricks of the trade? Is it worth buying a cheap spot welder or just tack them on?
Leon

 

[GilsTR]

Welcome Leon.... and you are at the right place to get the help you will be needing.
You have started a long journey that many here have gone down.
It probably won't be fast.... nor cheap... but will be rewarding... these are great cars!
i am sure there will pretty quickly be response to your current question.

Gil. NoCal

 

[bobhustead]

The cages I replaced, I just buzzed them on with MIG.

Bob

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Leon

Sounds like me 3 years ago. Failed project, boxes of parts and fiberglass patches.

Is the body still on the frame ? If it is and you plan to remove it be sure to brace the door gaps to retain the body dimensions.

On the cage nuts I drilled the spot weld and then they usually came off easily. Just drill the cage nut not right through. You can get a spot weld drill but I used a regular drill.

The hole will make welding it back easier or at least it did for me. Read the thread "Rear Tail light cutouts" He has a great home made tool for holding the cages while you weld.

Never used a spot welder so I can not comment on that just used MIG. If I had it to do again I think I may have tried a TIG torch for some of it. My MIG welder will do TIG as well.

As Gil said it is a long journey but well worth it. There is 3 years between the photos.

David

 

[DavidApp]

On the cage nuts I found the ones from one of the big 3 parts houses need work. The cage often allows the nut to fall out.

Judging by the quality of the panel I got from K.A.S in Australia their nuts may be better. It sounds like their Rocker panels are a good fit as well.

David

 

[martx-5]

If your not into strict originality, McMaster-Carr has superior caged nuts in the 1/4"-28 size. They are all one piece, not two separate items. Also, for those areas that are hard to MIG, I've used Pop-Rivets to hold the cage nuts in place. Also, there are a couple of places that have elongated cages to allow for more alignment, so you would have to use originals there. Macy's Garage also has the McMaster caged nuts. They are a little more expensive, but OK if you just need small quantities. McMaster sells by the 10 pack.

https://www.mcmaster.com/90955a113

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I’ve been using the Macy’s cage nuts in my projects. I’ve just been mig welding them on although I have a spot welder. Quite a few of the cage nuts are inaccessible as I’m sure you know. The rear wheel wells are a good example of this. In this case, I tried to move around and repair small areas at a time. Here’s an example of what I was doing on my 59 restoration to replace rusty metal and the cage nuts in behind.

https://youtu.be/qkoQIPRUQ54

Cheers
Tush

 

[Got_All_4]

Ok Leon congratulations you sound like me in 1976. Bought a 1960 TR3A and a Haynes Manual and some of the skills I learned from HS Vocational school small engine repair and taught myself how to rebuild a car. That's the Cliff Notes version anyway. Wish i had this resource (BCF) when building my first project as it probably would not have taken 7 years. Take your time ask questions before you do anything stupid. These cars are simple, great and easy to work on and if you get over your head get professional help. I had to twice because I got ahead of my skills at the time and no one to turn to for help. A man needs to know his limitations. I've heard that quote somewhere before. On those caged nuts I liked the extra adjustment you get out of the originals. Whenever possible save the old square nuts too and reuse them. They are thicker then the new ones you get with the cages. The new ones tend to fall out of the cage and are harder to start the bolt when assembling. Good luck!

 

[LeGrande]

Funny thing about knowing your limitations, when my customers asked if I could do something we didn’t quote my motto was “given enough time and money I can do anything”. Which usually included finding someone to help!

The body is on the frame. I don’t have the room to separate them plus I don’t trust any of the welds even if I braced between the pillars. After the body work is done, before prep & paint, is it too late to lift off the body?

I took some pictures showing before and after hanging the door and rear fender. Any thoughts on if it is close enough to start welding. In the close-up of the B-pillar, what the heck is missing? The dome shaped part? He bought a new B-pillar but I can’t find that part.

My first build was a 1976 Bradley GTII. Buying a basket case is like a kit car with no instructions. But the TR is not fiberglass and will be worth something when I'm done.

Thanks, Leon

 

[STeve 1958]

Looks good. I bought my first 1960 TR3A in 1974 with no money left and no available parts. Made it work somehow.
I never had to weld steel so the best advise I can give you on that is "Don't weld the door shut" ;-)

 

[sp53]

Can you take a picture of the B post quarter panel looking down? There should be a channel of sheet metal to reinforce the top edge.
steve

 

[LeGrande]

Steve,
Hope you can see what you need from these. If not, let me know. it's hard to get light in there!
Leon

 

[LionelJrudd]

Hi Leon.
Is this what you are looking for?

Hard to see in the photos but that rounded over bit that sticks up at the top is several layers thick (apart from the leading on this one) and tabs to the rear for about half an inch where it is welded to the top of the inner panel.
Lionel

 

[LeGrande]

Lionel, That is exactly what I'm looking for. Appears to be a stamping over another piece. Apparently it is going to be a problem getting it welded in with the quarter and inner panel already in place. That's if I can find the parts. They are not shown in any catalog I have found. I'm attaching a couple pics of the drivers side. I think it's OK but not really sure.

 

[LionelJrudd]

Leon find attached a tracing of the B post on the right side of my car. The four circles are the door latch mounting holes for reference distances. Shaded indicates where the panel has been leaded for shaping. As you can see, there is a L shaped section that joins the vertical part to the top of the inner panel. Just edge welded. I think you only need to add the lower part of that to the passenger side of your car.



It looks like you have most of the B post and its only the flat and vertical section on top that needs to be redone.

 

[sp53]

Here is a couple of shots of my car. I have been waiting for summer to do that part of the interior among other things. But anyways, there are a couple of pieces that make up that end piece. I tried to get some pictures, but my camera is not high quality. I know what iam seeing so it makes sense to me. Lionel is a true fabricator and he basically is building a whole car. You are probably going to need to make those pieces and all I can suggest is the size of the end cap is the size of trim opening of the dog leg piece of trim if you have that piece in your collection.
steve

 

[DavidApp]

The Top "D" shaped piece seems to be made from a thicker piece of steel. Maybe 1/8" thick. At least that is what mine looks like.

David

 

[colbtr]

Hi just came across this thread. I have done quite a bit of work especially around the rear quarter panel and B pillar of late. I have added some photos on my website

https://colbtr2.wixsite.com/triumph-tr2-ts1852/inner-quarter-panel-and-b-pillar

which illustrates a few things about the construction I hope although I can't locate an image of the inner panel with the 'pocket' welded on the inner panel before fitting. I will look further tonight and see if I can add it in

 

[Graham H]

If there is any lead left in that top piece it will melt when you weld that corner or rear bracket on, I just used soft solder to build it up again.

Graham

 

[colbtr]

there was lead over the join when I removed the original panel so I will need to build it up again. Is you car on the road now or still a work in progress?