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Dimmer switch relocation?

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ABfish

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Has anyone relocated their dimmer switch, say to a dash-mount?

I often find myself hitting the dimmer when placing my foot to the left of the clutch pedal. My size 11's seem to be about the practical limit for these cars!
 
My way of fixing that on my '65 is that the main switch just turns on the low-beams, the dash switch that is supposed to control the dash lights now turns on the high-beams only so I can turn on both sets of beams if I want to or either individually (and I use relays on both systems).
The dimmer switch has been removed.
BillM
 
Thanks, guys.

BillM, that's a good suggestion about the dash light switch and relays. I don't think I would miss the ability to turn the dash lights off.

If I relocated the dimmer switch, is there enough room in a Spridget for dead pedal?
 
I picked up an original early turn signal switch that looks like the ones that fit the Mk2 midget Mk3 sprite but this one has an extra lead and switch that is activated by pulling the lever back. I assume it was designed to activate the horn on a car without the button on the steering wheel. Any way, I hope to come up with some sort of sequential relay so that I can use it to dim headlights. Each pull will sequence from dim to bright then to dim ect. I just haave to find the time and a electical wizard to steer me to the right relay! On my BE I just relocated the dimmer switch above its normal position so I have room for my size 11's. Kind of a headache to have to pick my foot up to hit the switch all the time though.

Kurt.
 
All you would really need to do would be to take the leads going into the foot switch and run them through the handle - a switch is a switch. You can then run a relay from that wiring - with a two way switch and a two way task, back is on and forward is off or vice versa.
 
Its just a single contact as one would expect with a horn switch, JP. It would have to go to some sort of switch that would switch in sequence one to the other with each time one made contact. I can visualise how to make such a switch but I'm sure such a thing exists. No time to fool with it anyway for now.

Kurt.
 
What you need is called a single-pole, double-throw switch. It has to be rated to handle the headlight current, and I'm not sure what that is. I've measured it on my Porsche as 9 amps for the low beams and 11 for the high; Spridgets with sealed-beam headlights are probably about the same. So, you'll need a switch rated around 15 amps DC, for margin, and I don't think you'll find this in a simple, small toggle switch. You might find one rated at 15 amps AC, but that's an entirely different story--a 15 amp AC switch won't handle anything remotely close to that for dc.

So, this would be a good time to add relays to the headlights. Then, your switch handles only the relay coil current, which is only a couple tenths of an amp. As an added benefits, you'll see a real improvement in headlight brightness and your light switch will last longer.
 
Steve, can you explain that to me; I've never done much electrical work other than following diagrams. What does a relay between the switch and the headlights do for you (I think this applies to a horn too). Why wasn't this done originally?
 
Steve: Head light relays are intended for this project. If memory serves me a single pole double throw would indeed switch from high to low beam but can I get such an animal that could be activated electrically and sequence from one to the other like the foot activated switch does now?

Kurt.
 
On the BE I had, I turned the switch over and connected it with only one screw with the paper gasket underneath. Worked for ~100K miles until I gave it to my brother. My Size 11's were Happy. :bow:
 
Call me crazy...but I took the floor mounted dimmer switch and mounted it to the flat metal surface in front of the shifter under the dash. I mounted high enough so you really don't see it but low enough that it is easy to reach with the palm of your right hand. I ride with my hand on the shifter so it is a easy transition to take hand from shifter and palm the dimmer switch.
 
mightymidget said:
Call me crazy...but I took the floor mounted dimmer switch and mounted it to the flat metal surface in front of the shifter under the dash. I mounted high enough so you really don't see it but low enough that it is easy to reach with the palm of your right hand. I ride with my hand on the shifter so it is a easy transition to take hand from shifter and palm the dimmer switch.
Click to expand...

Not so crazy. I've thought of something similar. The relay setups are certainly better for higher amperage setups, but the simplicity of my Sprite is one of its best features. I don't want to add relays and another wiring harness if I can achieve the same thing with a relocated dimmer switch.
 
Sorry this is a little late, but I'll answer Jim's question.

You have two switches (dimmer and light switch) between the battery and the lights, and then a lot of wiring. Those switches wear out and the contact resistance increases. Eventually, they just fail. So, when you install relays, you have only one switch (the relay contacts) and somewhat less wire. This gives you a higher voltage at the lights, for better lighting. It also takes a huge amount of current out of the switches, so they last longer.

Why wasn't this done originally? A one-word answer: cost. It may sound silly to leave out headlight relays (and a horn relay and...) for a few bucks, but making a profit on any manufactured product requires a whole lot of these seemingly trival economies. And, of course, the spridgets were specifically designed to be low-cost cars.
 
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