Bonnet Removal for Engine Swap

[John Kuzman]

Greetings and Happy New Year!

I am beginning the engine swap in my '59 Bugeye. I had asked around about the best method for removing the bonnet in order to pull the engine/gearbox. The advice I received was to support the bonnet by the "T" handle using a lifting strap or rope tied off to an overhead structure, disconnect the two bonnet stays, and raise the bonnet back towards the windscreen to almost 90 degrees. Sounded like the perfect solution.
Tried it today. The bonnet will only raise about another 2-3 inches before the hinges hit the rear bonnet seal.
Has anyone used this method? What am I missing? Should I just look to the alternatives: (1) remove the eight hinge bolts and struggle with re-alignment. If this is the only option, what is the best method to avoid smashed fingers, etc.; or (2) remove the hinge pins under the dash, if this is even possible.

 

[bugimike]

Hinge pins under the dash are notorious for being difficult. One or the other is usually impossible to get out! Re-aligning is not that tough if you are patient. If you have rafters available, hanging slings to hold/hang the whole bonnet up is a good way to go! Undo your bolts and roll the car back (don't forget yous wiring harness!)

 

[jlaird]

Mark the hinges before you remove the bolts. Put em back in the same place. You can take out two on each side then get a couple of buds to help.

 

[healeyboz]

I agree with the rafter idea. I have personally done this many times with many cars!! I also recommend getting a buddy or two out there to hold the back of the bonnet while you release the 8 bolts. If buddies are not available, get your wife and use the one-handed trick.... Good luck,, realigning it is not as bad as people make it out to be. Common sense plays a huge part to this..

 

[jlaird]

Miss Agatha has one pin that I could not get out.

 

[Team_Sprite]

Rarely do I have anything to add from the 'cheap seats' but... I really like pulling the hinge-pins, particularly if the hood (yup hood) is aligned nicely and you want it to go back exactly the same as it came off. Granted, I have only had this thing on and off a few times, but it has been a song. I use a long taper punch to line up the holes, and ground the tips of the bolts to a mild point. This seemed a lot safer with all this fresh paint than fussing around holding the hood (did it again) while trying to get those hinge bolts in.

"Tried it today. The bonnet will only raise about another 2-3 inches before the hinges hit the rear bonnet seal. " Same thing here, it seemed like a great idea, I wish it worked on our car.

Thanks for asking something I had a little experience in.

Brian & the girls
https://www.teamsprite.com

 

[john_j]

I'm sure I will be met with howls of "oh no you can't" but I took the engine out and back without taking the bonnet off.

It's a bit tight, and I do have the ultimate weapon - a home-made engine crane which is not very tall, and specially built with Frogeyes and Morris J vans in mind.

It saves all the trouble of realigning the bonnet and risking chipping the paint.

John

 

[Billm]

If you want an old trick for maintaining the bonnet orentation thru removal- before removal drill one 1/8" hole thru the hinge AND the bonnet (don't drill thru the top skin) on each side (2 holes total, one per hinge). Then when it is time to reinstall just drop a 1/8" drill bit in each side before tightening the bolts, remove them after tightening.
Bill

 

[Bugeye58]

Bill, the old "Rig Pin" trick. I had forgotten all about that. Thanks for reminding me.
Jeff

 

[ncbugeye]

Please post a photo of your crane...