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Winterising the Frogeye

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Chatis

Chatis

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Relocated from SoCal to Kansas City. I have been told that I need to winterise the car. I have some questions as to what to do and if this is really necessary? I have been told fill the gas tank, remove the battery or trickle charge it. No advise on the coolant. No specific info on lifting the car.

I am also smoking badly at higher revs (from the exhaust - quit the habit years ago!). My SoCal mechanic said keep the oil full and don't worry - its a 50 year old car. I would really like to do something to reduce the smoking so any suggestions welcomed. Oil pressure is always very good.

Last, any recommendations on a mechanic in KS?
 
Having relatives in KC for many years, I can say for certain the car needs to be prepared for winter. :yesnod: It is unlike anything you ever experienced in SoCal. :frown:
 
Do nothing, send the car down here. I'll keep 'er warmed up for ya.

You could do a ring job over the winter. I'm one to keep 'em goin' til they can't go no more ( in good sense) and then go completley though it. In other words, keep it full of oil and drive it till it gets too bad or embabarassing.

These cars aren't any fun parked.
 
Isn't Bill Young near Kansas City?
 
Here we go again, and I will give my annual reply.
Check the antifreeze, open the heater valve, and put the top up.
Or do what ever you do to the Minivan or Sport-ute in the winter.
It's just that turning the heat on in a Spridget means you have to open the bonnet and turn a valve, a bit harder than in the minivan.
:wink:
 
SO CAL!!! Does he know what antifreeze is!??

Just kidding! Personaly I always store with the tank full. Cuts down on condensation and subsequent rust.

Some reason the local U-store wants the tank empty but does'nt give a hoot if there is a connected battery though.

Enjoy the midwest!!!

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
SO CAL!!! Does he know what antifreeze is!??

Just kidding! Personaly I always store with the tank full. Cuts down on condensation and subsequent rust.

Some reason the local U-store wants the tank empty but does'nt give a hoot if there is a connected battery though.

Enjoy the midwest!!!

Kurt.
Click to expand...

Interestingly the editor of Vintage Truck magazine was advocating storing with an empty tank as the ethanol in the gas absorbs moisture causing rust
 
Yeah, I know, JP, the old ethanol is bad argument. I suppose if you completely drain and dry the tank that that would be better. I've stored a lot of vehicles and equipment always with the tank full and never had a problem.
If air can only get to the fuel in the filler neck versus the whole tank its got to make a difference and that would go for ethanol as well.

KA
 
Ethanol could sure be a problem if you can't get pure gas. Don't know about Kansas City area but here in Oklahoma we can still get the real stuff, usually about 10 cents per gallon more than the usual E10.
 
nomad said:
Yeah, I know, JP, the old ethanol is bad argument. I suppose if you completely drain and dry the tank that that would be better. I've stored a lot of vehicles and equipment always with the tank full and never had a problem.
If air can only get to the fuel in the filler neck versus the whole tank its got to make a difference and that would go for ethanol as well.

KA
Click to expand...

I'm inclined to agree with you (and will be leaving my tank full with Stabil also. - just quoting what I read is all
 
Last year I left a full tank of fuel in the boat. That's 33 gallons. It might have been ethanol. I alway try to get good gas, but might have gotten it at a closer place w/ ethanol. After 8 months I poured in two cans of Seafoam. A year later I cranked here up and she ran great. About to run the rest of the 15 gallons out in a week or so. It was in an aluminum tank so I can't comment about rust. If your winteris that long and you're really worried about rust, pull the tank and coat the inside w/ two stroke oil and then reinstall it. Not a big job on the RB cars but I think its worse for you BE guys.

I drive my car year roun. It only sits for three months or so in the summer, but I still steal a ride on a cool night. (mid June till mid September)
 
I drive my Midget year round up here in NW Washington state.

My Sprite will sit through the winter all covered up snug.
I put a can of Seafoam in and drive it until it's for sure made it through to the carbs. Replace my antifreeze and run it with the heater open until I'm sure it's all the way through the system. Then cover up for a long winters night.
When Spring comes I'll replace the oil & filter, make sure no damage has occurred to anything, then get in, turn the key and drive!!

In the Midget it's replace all the fluids time and make sure everything has grease that needs some and make sure the electrical system is up to the challenge.
I just replaced the connectors on the big brown wires to the fuse block as the old ones were getting very tired. I pulled the ground lug from the firewall and replaced the rusting bolt and shined up the area with a bit of sandpaper and then refastened the cable. Bad grounds will eat you alive in these cars, you can't assume just because it's bolted to the frame or body that it's a good ground.
 
Thanks all for your responses. And thanks for the contact re a mechanic. It scares me that there is no unity in what to do through winter. Editor Reid, who is part of this forum posted a suggestion on a different thread (Post 91394). Editor Reid built my car so I am going on his recommendations mostly. Here is what I will be doing:

1.) Full tank of gas
2.) Battery Trickle Charge
3.) Pump tires to 35 PSI
4.) Drive at every opportunity

I may drain and fill the radiator with fresh anti-freeze. During the winter I will try to fix an oil leak in the diff and the block (not the leak from the Rivergate conversion which will likely require the engine pulled. And, with funds low will likely drive her until she needs a complete rebuild.

No recommendations on anti-smoke additives? Oils?

Thanks for the responses,
 
:iagree: I like your plan. Be sure you have enough anti-freeze and watch those ice and snow covered hills but do enjoy Kansas City.
 
Chatis said:
No recommendations on anti-smoke additives? Oils?
Click to expand...

My 'new' cylinder head has tired worn valve seals.
On recommendations I decided to try the Lucas oil additive.
It worked pretty well, I'd say I've got about 80% less oil burning now. The stuff is thick though, so cold weather starting will be an issue.
 
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