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TR2/3/3A Windshield stanchion bolts removal?

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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I need to remove one of the 5/16" stanchion bolts to install a Harley Davidson side mirror. Is there a threaded plate on the other side? Has anyone done this.....are they usually rusted in solid and need to be drilled out?
 
It has a threaded piece on the inside but no access to it without cutting a hole.
I had to use a wide hand made screw driver that fit the slot completely, with plenty of oil and patience. You may be able to find a screw driver socket that fits the slot and use a breaker bar also. Either way, the screwdriver needs to fit the slot perfectly.

Tom
 
It has a threaded piece on the inside but no access to it without cutting a hole.
I had to use a wide hand made screw driver that fit the slot completely, with plenty of oil and patience. You may be able to find a screw driver socket that fits the slot and use a breaker bar also. Either way, the screwdriver needs to fit the slot perfectly.

Tom
I should have mentioned this in my post but unfortunately the slot was kind of ruined by a ham handed PO. I think cutting a hole may be my only option in order to squirt some PB Baster on to the threaded piece. Is this threaded piece just a piece of flat iron welded to the body or is it more of a nut. After I lubricate that piece I may be able to take a dull chisel and hammer to the bolt head slot??? Or is there a better way? Karl
 
Hi Karl. Before cutting into the body…. I would drill a hole in the center of the screw and use a screw extractor. They are available at your local hardware store or Amazon. I’ve used them before and they work fine if you take your time. Good luck. :smile:
 
Hi Karl. Before cutting into the body…. I would drill a hole in the center of the screw and use a screw extractor. They are available at your local hardware store or Amazon. I’ve used them before and they work fine if you take your time. Good luck. :smile:
Good idea. (y)
 
Hi Karl. Before cutting into the body…. I would drill a hole in the center of the screw and use a screw extractor. They are available at your local hardware store or Amazon. I’ve used them before and they work fine if you take your time. Good luck. :smile:
Beware.
My experience with screw extractors has been a lot less than 50% successful. When they break off in the old bolt you are really screwed. So proceed with caution.
Charley
 
Beware.
My experience with screw extractors has been a lot less than 50% successful. When they break off in the old bolt you are really screwed. So proceed with caution.
Charley
i'm going to drill a hole from the inside to access the screw with some PB Blaster and let it soak. Maybe see if I can square up the screw head enough to get a vice grip to bite into it.🤔
 
I think you can get some oil in from the back without drilling a hole. The top has is open. I doubt the vice grips will help but worth a try.
Although some risk of damaging the stanchion I'd think about repairing the screw slot and make a driver to fit. I've had some success with a hand held impact driver also.
 
It occurred to me that you need to define for us which type of stantion you have on your car. The early type uses a Dzus key like your hood this has a bracket between the stantion and the body. The Dzus type fastens into that bracket and the bracket is screwed into the body.
The later type has no bracket underneath and is screwed to the body. There are several variants of these things.
You need to know which you are dealing with.
Charley
 
Well I mentioned screw a number of times so I thought it was self evident that a screw was what I was referring to.The stantion I have is not a DZUS type. I have the large rounded chrome screw head type. In what manner is it "screwed to the body"? In other words what is on the other side of the stantion that the screw is screwing into? I suspect it is either a nut welded onto the interior panel or a plate with a threaded hole which I hope to access with penetrating oil.
 
Well I mentioned screw a number of times so I thought it was self evident that a screw was what I was referring to.The stantion I have is not a DZUS type. I have the large rounded chrome screw head type. In what manner is it "screwed to the body"? In other words what is on the other side of the stantion that the screw is screwing into? I suspect it is either a nut welded onto the interior panel or a plate with a threaded hole which I hope to access with penetrating oil.
What is your commission number?
Charley
 
The dzus ones don't tend to rust lock.
 
I don’t think a slotted screw head settles the issue. According to the TR2 & TR3 Service Instruction Manual, and the fact that all four of my TR2 slotted head stanchion bolts are precisely vertical, despite the slotted heads they could be dzus fasteners until whenever there was a change to threaded. The service manual says to turn the bolts counterclockwise 90 degrees and then pull them further out to remove the windscreen.

Steve
 
Inside the scuttle there is a flat plate with with two nuts welded to it. The whole assembly is spot welded inside the scuttle panel. I remade this section of panel and cleaned up the assembly and re-spot welded it to the panel. My suggestion would be penetrating oil from inside if possible, try and recut the slot with a dremel and the careful use of an impact driver. Failing that, you may need to drill out the bolt and re-tap the thread. Best regards, Lionel.
 

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Inside the scuttle there is a flat plate with with two nuts welded to it. The whole assembly is spot welded inside the scuttle panel. I remade this section of panel and cleaned up the assembly and re-spot welded it to the panel. My suggestion would be penetrating oil from inside if possible, try and recut the slot with a dremel and the careful use of an impact driver. Failing that, you may need to drill out the bolt and re-tap the thread. Best regards, Lionel.
Thanks for the photo. If I can direct a stream of penetrating oil onto the nut and let it soak I should be able to loosen things up. I like the dremel and impact idea. (y) (y)
 
Karl, Lionel is on this,PB blaster should help.Take a Dremel and " enhance" the slot.Try tightening first ,then loosening.
Work it back and forth till it comes out. A bit of gorilla tape on the pillar to protect the chrome.
Good luck
Mad dog
 
Karl, Lionel is on this,PB blaster should help.Take a Dremel and " enhance" the slot.Try tightening first ,then loosening.
Work it back and forth till it comes out. A bit of gorilla tape on the pillar to protect the chrome.
Good luck
Mad dog
Karl,
If you have the early style of stantion, as I suspect you do. You can spray anything you like from the inside and it will do you no good. As the two screws that go into the actual body are holding the bracket to the body and the heads are underneath the stantion. The two screws that are visible from the outside only go into that bracket.
I suggested that you tell us your commission number ( at least the first 3 digits with xx for the last 2, which will narrow down what your car is equipped with. If you do not know that number you are going to continue to probe in the dark. These cars are not all exactly alike. Many things changed during the years.
Charley
 
Karl,
If you have the early style of stantion, as I suspect you do. You can spray anything you like from the inside and it will do you no good. As the two screws that go into the actual body are holding the bracket to the body and the heads are underneath the stantion. The two screws that are visible from the outside only go into that bracket.
I suggested that you tell us your commission number ( at least the first 3 digits with xx for the last 2, which will narrow down what your car is equipped with. If you do not know that number you are going to continue to probe in the dark. These cars are not all exactly alike. Many things changed during the years.
Charley
Have you seen the photo Lionel sent? This is what is on the other side of the stanchion. I do not see any issue in lubricating the nut that holds the stanchion screw.
 
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