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TR2/3/3A Water pump Replacement bolt.?

GTP1960

Jedi Knight
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Hey folks,
I am replacing my water pump with a new 6 vane model.
there are two studs in place and one bolt.
the bolt is giving me problems, as I can't find the original and
The one that came with the new pump is apparently the wrong size, as I can't get it started.
(BTW: it starts deep in the water pump housing, so there may be something else going on.)

i'm hoping someone knows the exact bolt to use?

thx and best regards.

Guy
 

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The bolt is extra-long, as it passes through the outer pump housing and into the cylinder block. 3/8 NC by 2-1/4"

Don't forget new lock washers all round.

PS, I long ago converted to a stud in that location. It was required with some of the aftermarket pumps, as they had the pulley permanently attached to the shaft. But I kind of like the stud even with an original type pump as it means you can swap pumps around without having to pull the pulley off. I believe Moss still sells the stud even though they don't have the fixed pulley pumps any more.
 
Thanks Randall,
makes you wonder why they used a bolt in the first place, when a 3rd stud would have worked just as well or better.
go figure.
 
Randall, using a stud is a good idea!. Please let us know the Moss part number for the stud. Also please advise us of the specs (size/length/thread) on the bolt in case Moss no longer carries it. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
Thanks for the rescue, Geo!
 
would you take a look at the attached pic and tell me what you think?

my concern:
though this seemed to be the only way this pump could fit;
( because of the left lower base of the thermostat housing encroaching on water pump real estate). The gasket is out of alignment with the pump, but not with the housing base plate.

i think I got a good seal using hylomar, but the overhang is a concern.

do you think I need to go back to square one?
 

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The pump is certainly in the correct position.

Does the gasket only fit one way? Seems it should exactly match the base of the pump (wondering if you got the gasket backwards &/or 120° off).

I have one on the shelf -- I'll take a look.

Okay - I checked my spare gasket and pump... the gasket nearly but not quite 3-fold symmetry. You can probably (and possibly did) force the bolts thru with the gasket off by 120° but it will not exactly match the base of the pump that way.
 
Right. The holes in the pump aren't quite 120 degrees either.
 
Thanks for checking that out!

Geo when you compared the spare gasket in the 120 off position, did it appear I have enough coverage to seal & work?
or do you think I should break it loose and start over. I'm getting real good at redos, I'm rather ashamed to say.
(next time I'll put the gasket on the pump first rather than the housing)

thx again.
 
The one I looked at would have probably sealed even in the wrong position - but gaskets vary. In fact, the one I examined had the holes a bit closer to center than the spare pump I have.

Were it I, I would remove it and replace the gasket. Would be very easy to make a new one using your pump as the pattern -- you should be able to make a gasket that is better quality than the usual supplied item and it will fit perfectly.

I can't begin to count the number of re-do's I have had in the regular course of events -- in fact just did one yesterday on a VW master cylinder when I didn't like how the o-ring set against the booster (got pinched in a funny way). At least the jobs are typically easier the second time around.
 
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