TR2/3/3A Upper Wishbone Bushings

[ricadamdonk]

So I searched the forum and found lots of good advice for this job and was ready for an enjoyable day in the garage.
Unfortunately my upper ball joint had other plans. Somewhere along the way this joint was replaced with one without a castelled nut for the wishbone end
and for the life of me I could not loosen that nut. Assuming that it may have been assembled with high strength thread locker, I heated it up
with a propane torch for quite awhile and was still unable to budge it (I did succeed in rounding the flats a bit!). I think my best bet now is to split the ball joint, unbolt the upper fulcrum pin, and deal with it on the bench.
Any advice greatly appreciated!
Cheers
Bob

 

[Frank Canale]

Hi Bob, is the body on the car or off? Either way I would cut the nut with a dremel, maybe there is room for a small grinder with a cutoff wheel, or use a 90 degree die grinder and grind the nut to the point you can break the nut with a cold chisel. The nut is the weakest link so that is what I would attack. Frank

 

[jfarris]

Consider a Dremel with a flexible shaft and a full container of cut-off wheels. The flexible shaft is great for both control and tight spaces.
Good luck!

 

[sp53]

Have you tried a large bar between the ball joint and vertical link then apply pressure against the two to hold everything tight and use an impact gun or drill with a socket and snap the nut lose.

steve

 

[Rod-H]

I use a Nut Cracker tool. I got it from Northern Tool some years ago. I've only needed it once, but, when I did it was a life saver.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...Pje3KXQjdKs6H81LeSRu8JV2bEMJBo_8aAmgSEALw_wcB

Rod

 

[steveg]

Don't forget a penetrant such as Kroil.

 

[Frank Canale]

Kroil is good stuff. But once the nut is rounded off you have to use a more aggressive approach. This is a tough spot to work in. Frank

 

[ricadamdonk]

Thanks all for the tips. The body is still on so I think I will try a nut splitter first and see how I make out.
Cheers
Bob

 

[ricadamdonk]

Mission accomplished.
I split the ball joint and picked up a nut splitter from Princess Auto (our version of Harbor Freight) and proceeded to go to town. After several turns of the wrench a satisfying pop was heard and I thought the job was done. Unfortunately that was the sound of the splitter failing (seems they don't make cheap tools like they used too!).
At any rate, I was able to lift the arm up enough to get a long box end wrench on it and free the nut. Now that the wishbone is off, I see that the splines are worn on the hole for the ball joint.
Is this critical for reassembly?
Cheers
Bob

 

[sp53]

Never been sure if those slots were made by the ball joint or they come that way new. The new ball joint will have the splines and they will cut into that thin metal. I do not like many aftermarket parts, so I would use that one unless you have a better one. I mock up the whole assembly and see how everything works as a whole then move that to the car. The wishbones overlap sometimes better one way than the other. The inside of the wishbone where the rubber goes is often pitted; what I do there is clean the inside high spots up with a file or something, but not too much and go with that. I have good success.
steve

 

[CJD]

+1...the splines are from the ball joint as it holds itself from turning. You are fortunate, as I have had the ball joint turn as it came off before, and that opens allows the spines to open up the hole so the arm cannot hold a new ball joint. But you are good to go!

 

[ricadamdonk]

Thanks...I'll put all back together and see what happens. Not much left of those splines!
Cheers
Bob

 

[CJD]

remember, the splines are actually on the ball joint post, not the A arms. What you see in the arms is the result of the ball joint splines biting into the arms. The new ball joint will cut it's own new "splines" into the arms.