-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
upgrade front suspension, grommets and sway bar
- Thread starter dfesmire
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
Re: upgrade front suspension, grommets and sway ba
Hi Dennis,
I agree with Keoke. A heavier front anti sway bar will cause more understeer (push) unless accompanied by a compatible rear bar. It won't help handling unless you want more understeer/slower reaction. All it will do is make the ride harder. Heavier bars & adding a rear bar are great for specialized action such as auto cross & tight circuit racing. They do make the car harder to handle & do present some unexpected surprises, especially in the wet.
If you are determined to do it, Denis Welsh has many bars in almost any size that you wish. In any case I would not suggest going more than 1/8" larger than your existing front bar.
Go here:
https://www.bighealey.co.uk/
D
Hi Dennis,
I agree with Keoke. A heavier front anti sway bar will cause more understeer (push) unless accompanied by a compatible rear bar. It won't help handling unless you want more understeer/slower reaction. All it will do is make the ride harder. Heavier bars & adding a rear bar are great for specialized action such as auto cross & tight circuit racing. They do make the car harder to handle & do present some unexpected surprises, especially in the wet.
If you are determined to do it, Denis Welsh has many bars in almost any size that you wish. In any case I would not suggest going more than 1/8" larger than your existing front bar.
Go here:
https://www.bighealey.co.uk/
D
Gray_Cat
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Re: upgrade front suspension, grommets and sway ba
Good morning everyone, at least it is in LA.
Quick question related to this string: my 55 BN1 does not have sway bars at all. Reading this post and answers it sounds like going with a stock set up would be best (and planning to use poly bushings). I'm not going to auto-x or anything, just street driving.
As always many thanks!
Roy
Good morning everyone, at least it is in LA.
Quick question related to this string: my 55 BN1 does not have sway bars at all. Reading this post and answers it sounds like going with a stock set up would be best (and planning to use poly bushings). I'm not going to auto-x or anything, just street driving.
As always many thanks!
Roy
Offline
Re: upgrade front suspension, grommets and sway ba
Hi Roy,
The four cylinder cars were about 300 pounds lighter on the front end than the sixes. This means that they don't tend to understeer as much & can benefit from a slightly larger front sway bar without causing understeer.
The Fours originally came with 1/2" front bars. The 100M's were supplied with a heavier 5/8" bar. This bar is readily available from several sources. See this Moss listing:
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887
You would need the 5/8" bar, item #34, plus the associated rubber mount bushings, links, etc. Items # 29,30,33,34,35,36, & possibly the plates #28, depending on how much of the original is missing. The poly bushing substitute would be ok.
This 5/8" bar is pretty much a "standard" upgrade on the Fours.
D
Hi Roy,
The four cylinder cars were about 300 pounds lighter on the front end than the sixes. This means that they don't tend to understeer as much & can benefit from a slightly larger front sway bar without causing understeer.
The Fours originally came with 1/2" front bars. The 100M's were supplied with a heavier 5/8" bar. This bar is readily available from several sources. See this Moss listing:
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887
You would need the 5/8" bar, item #34, plus the associated rubber mount bushings, links, etc. Items # 29,30,33,34,35,36, & possibly the plates #28, depending on how much of the original is missing. The poly bushing substitute would be ok.
This 5/8" bar is pretty much a "standard" upgrade on the Fours.
D
I second the motion on the poly bushing set from tom's import in washington. I just completed the job over the past month and the product is great and tom was of much help on the phone..... however, it is a huge and tight job if the original steel/rubber bushings are there in the inner a-arms, and although there is some improvemnent in ride, it's a big job including sawsall, torches bandaids. if the original bushings seem ok..... consider leaving them and investing in uprated shocks.... they seem to make a bigger difference for me.
-andrew- bj8
-andrew- bj8
anthony7777
Yoda
Offline
adrew,ive done many of these front end upgrades,and yes it its a bit tight,and yes the newer bushes are great,how and where did you employ a 'saws all?
Offline
Re: upgrade front suspension, grommets and sway ba
[ QUOTE ]
and although there is some improvemnent in ride, it's a big job including sawsall, torches bandaids. if the original bushings seem ok..... consider leaving them and investing in uprated shocks.... they seem to make a bigger difference for me.
-andrew- bj8
[/ QUOTE ]
If anyone is interested - The following quote of Jim Hockert, a fairly knowledgeable Healey guy. Things are not always as they would seem to be:
____________________________
Bob:
I believe that changing out the OEM type suspension bushings for a harder
material is not beneficial to the car or driver in the case of big Healeys.
The reason is that the design and manufacture of the front suspension
causes the bushes to bind as the suspension travels up and down. That is
the reason that you hear squeaks, clunks and thumps when poly bushes are
installed. They bind up, then release with a 'pop'. That is also why the
ride is so harsh with poly bushes.
The castor on the front suspension is built into the chassis by having the
horizontal centerline of the rear suspension bracket one-half inch closer
to the top of the chassis than the horizontal centerline of the front
suspension bracket. This provides two degrees of positive castor for the
suspension. Unfortunately, in the manufacturing process, the brackets are
installed at a 90 degree vertical angle to the chassis instead of 88
degrees. In addition, the shock tower is 90 degrees vertical to the
chassis instead of 88 degrees. Thus, both the upper and lower A-arms do
not travel in plane with the castor angle causing the suspension to bind
slightly as it works. The OEM rubber bushes absorb the binding and
actually snug up somewhat in a tight turn.
The best solution, absent blueprinting the suspension and changing the
angles of the brackets, is to replace the rubber bushes with OEM type
bushes as a regular maintenance item.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
---------------------------------------
D
[ QUOTE ]
and although there is some improvemnent in ride, it's a big job including sawsall, torches bandaids. if the original bushings seem ok..... consider leaving them and investing in uprated shocks.... they seem to make a bigger difference for me.
-andrew- bj8
[/ QUOTE ]
If anyone is interested - The following quote of Jim Hockert, a fairly knowledgeable Healey guy. Things are not always as they would seem to be:
____________________________
Bob:
I believe that changing out the OEM type suspension bushings for a harder
material is not beneficial to the car or driver in the case of big Healeys.
The reason is that the design and manufacture of the front suspension
causes the bushes to bind as the suspension travels up and down. That is
the reason that you hear squeaks, clunks and thumps when poly bushes are
installed. They bind up, then release with a 'pop'. That is also why the
ride is so harsh with poly bushes.
The castor on the front suspension is built into the chassis by having the
horizontal centerline of the rear suspension bracket one-half inch closer
to the top of the chassis than the horizontal centerline of the front
suspension bracket. This provides two degrees of positive castor for the
suspension. Unfortunately, in the manufacturing process, the brackets are
installed at a 90 degree vertical angle to the chassis instead of 88
degrees. In addition, the shock tower is 90 degrees vertical to the
chassis instead of 88 degrees. Thus, both the upper and lower A-arms do
not travel in plane with the castor angle causing the suspension to bind
slightly as it works. The OEM rubber bushes absorb the binding and
actually snug up somewhat in a tight turn.
The best solution, absent blueprinting the suspension and changing the
angles of the brackets, is to replace the rubber bushes with OEM type
bushes as a regular maintenance item.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
---------------------------------------
D
Hi Anthony:
Actually the Sawsall worked out really well, after a few false starts with a torch and a hand keyhole cutter with a metal blade.
Here was the problem. The inner A-arm links had the original rubber bushings with steel sleaves. In this case, the bushing and the special pins were completely ceased, except one. No amount of careful prybar work, penetrating oil, nor a special threaded rod insert against the pin and the body member would free the bushing and A-arm pin! Next came the torch, and a try to burn out the bushing's rubber.... could not handle the smell and fire was getting close to brake lines and the rad.
My father's construction sawsall, with an extra long metal blade, gave just the correct amount of reach and was narrow enough to get inside the bracket that seats the pin and bushing. After a few minutes cutting...boom the pins were cut allowing the assembly to come out and the pins are about $14 each from Moss going back in.
With a sawsall, count on bending the blade a few times, until you can guage the clearances.
Hope that helps someone.
- Andrew -
Actually the Sawsall worked out really well, after a few false starts with a torch and a hand keyhole cutter with a metal blade.
Here was the problem. The inner A-arm links had the original rubber bushings with steel sleaves. In this case, the bushing and the special pins were completely ceased, except one. No amount of careful prybar work, penetrating oil, nor a special threaded rod insert against the pin and the body member would free the bushing and A-arm pin! Next came the torch, and a try to burn out the bushing's rubber.... could not handle the smell and fire was getting close to brake lines and the rad.
My father's construction sawsall, with an extra long metal blade, gave just the correct amount of reach and was narrow enough to get inside the bracket that seats the pin and bushing. After a few minutes cutting...boom the pins were cut allowing the assembly to come out and the pins are about $14 each from Moss going back in.
With a sawsall, count on bending the blade a few times, until you can guage the clearances.
Hope that helps someone.
- Andrew -
anthony7777
Yoda
Offline
andrew1,gess ive been very lucky with all the ones ive encountered,had some stuborn pins but nothing i couldnt nock through with some help from a hammer,sounds as if youve done a 'smashing job'cheers!