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I now see why I cannot tighten the washers so they are flush against the wishbone on the right side. I seems that the smooth part of the spindle,where it meets the splines,is standing proud about the width of a thin washer so that when I tighten the bolt on the spline the top hat hits the smooth part of the spline that is sticking out. Hope that makes sense. It could be that the wishbone faces have been worn down. Is there any reason why I can't put a thin washer between the trunnion shoulder and the thrust washer to take up the slack? Also,in regard to split pins and castellated nuts.....I can see how a Nyloc washer is suitable if a nut is torqued down but if it has to be backed off till loose in order to get 4 degrees end play then wouldn't the nut only be relying on the nyloc to secure it? I know what John is saying that the whole rig isn't going anywhere and you would get notice if the bolt came loose but I tightened the 7/16 nyloc nut along with red Loctite and the next day it seemed like it didn't take all that much to break it free. Just wondering!
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TR2/3/3A Trunnion spindle conundrum again?
- Thread starter karls59tr
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CJD
Yoda
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I'd rather a key, but I have nylocs on mine and have had no trouble. The only issue is, if you do use a spacer washer, ensure the nyloc is on far enough to grab the threads.
On your other question, am I understanding that the splines on the center of the spindle are catching the top hat washer?
On your other question, am I understanding that the splines on the center of the spindle are catching the top hat washer?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Still sounds to me like the pin is not centered in the casting. How much clearance is there on the other side, between the end of the smooth area and the installed outer washer?
That is a bearing area, so I wouldn't try installing just an ordinary flat washer inside it.
You're quite right, you're going to be mostly relying on the nylon locking insert to keep the nut from turning once it is properly installed. But the washer is locked from turning (by the splines) and will be pushed up against the nut, so that will help hold it as well. There isn't anything but vibration trying to loosen it anyway.
If you used Loctite and it was easy to remove, then either you have low-strength Loctite (it comes in a bewildering variety of compounds), or the surfaces were not prepared properly. It won't stick to dirt, oil, grease, paint, etc. and even new fasteners frequently have a thin layer of oil on them.
That is a bearing area, so I wouldn't try installing just an ordinary flat washer inside it.
You're quite right, you're going to be mostly relying on the nylon locking insert to keep the nut from turning once it is properly installed. But the washer is locked from turning (by the splines) and will be pushed up against the nut, so that will help hold it as well. There isn't anything but vibration trying to loosen it anyway.
If you used Loctite and it was easy to remove, then either you have low-strength Loctite (it comes in a bewildering variety of compounds), or the surfaces were not prepared properly. It won't stick to dirt, oil, grease, paint, etc. and even new fasteners frequently have a thin layer of oil on them.