TR6 TR6 Oil change

[bricktop]

My first oil change as a TR6 owner is due. Does anyone take their LBC to Jiffy Lube or is that blasphemy? My only other option would be to take it to my regular LBC mechanic whose labor rate is 90.00/hr.

If I go the Jiffy Lube route, what is the latest argument for or against synthetics?

Thanks. Carter

 

[pa297pass]

Hi Carter:

No chance you could change it yourself?

I ask for two reasons. First, if it still has the canister type oil filter, I doubt if Jiffy-Lube will have either a replacement element or be able to figure out how to put it back together without it leaking.

Second, the drain plug has pipe threads on it (I think) and a square head, not like a modern car ... my experience with the oil change places is they will tighen your drain plug SUPER tight to prevent leaks and then tighten it some more (usually until they strip it). My fear is they won't be able to figure out how to take off a square headed plug, and then when they tighten it back up they will ruin it and possibly the threads in your oil pan.

As for the synthetics, I have heard that if you put a synthetic oil in a sludged up old engine (not implying yours is), it will break all the "stuff" loose and the engine will start burning oil and leaking profusely. I have not experienced (or tried) this myself.

Just my two cents ... good luck with whatever you choose to do.

Matt

 

[BritBox]

Hi Carter,

If those are really your only two options, take the Triumph to your regular LBC mechanic. I would not let a Jiffy Lube grease-jockey touch my TR. I don't go to McDonald's to get a delicious hamburger, either. Third option, of course, is to do it yourself. Messy, but at least it's messy.

I don't know if it's a new argument or old, but modern synthetic motor oils don't work great in 40+ year-old engine designs--they leak through the seals even faster than dinosaur juice. Modern cars are a different story. I don't have a problem with using synthetic or blends in my newer vehicles. On a related note, I do use synthetic in my gearbox and it works fine. Probably because gearbox lubricants aren't as slippery.

Regards,

 

[bricktop]

I love this forum. I think you guys just made my decision for me. I do have the spin-off filter conversion, but I don't have the ramps etc to really do the oil change myself at this point.

I think one 90.00 oil change will force me to reexamine my position on this issue.

Thanks.

 

[Brosky]

Most $90/Hr. shops will do an oil change for about $45 total if you buy their oil and filter. Good time to convert to a spin on adapter if you already haven't done so, then the price gets cheaper since you can do it yourself much easier with spin on.

Make sure that you use 20/50 weight oil, IMHO. Not synthetic at this stage of the game.

 

[RonMacPherson]

Synthetics versus petroleum. Good question? Synthetics can cause leaks past the seals, that means the seals are hard and there was some crud getting ready to leak soon. Petroleum oils sold here in the US for the last 6 or 7 years have been degraded in capability of protecting engines. All of the zinc diphosphate has been removed per the mfr's request so the catalytic convertors will last longer. Look at the rating on your oil it is alomost always SI or later. Anything after SJ has NO zinc. The one antiwear additive that is worth its weigh. Lucas oil additive has been proven to be a moneymeaker for Lucas sellers, but has NO beneficial affect on engines. Remember STP? It was a good assembly lube, but that's about all.
My recommendation is get a good multigrade for Diesels or go to a motorcycle shop and get oil from them.

 

[70herald]

I love this forum. I think you guys just made my decision for me. I do have the spin-off filter conversion, but I don't have the ramps etc to really do the oil change myself at this point.

I think one 90.00 oil change will force me to reexamine my position on this issue.

Thanks.

When I change the oil on either my cars, I just drive one side of the car up onto the sidewalk (preferable where there is a little ramp so thoughtfully put in by the city!). The 10 cm or so of lift is more than enough to reach under and loosen the drain bolt. I have axle stands, jacks etc, but the sidewalk is so much more convenient
Yisrael

 

[Tinster]

I pay $65 for an oil change at a small
private oil/tire shop. They let me supervise
the mechanic-
Peace of mind? Priceless.

I take NONE of my cars to Jiffy-Lube.
I hear they give you used deep fryer oil.

d

 

[Guest]

I pay $65 for an oil change at a small
private oil/tire shop. They let me supervise
the mechanic-
Peace of mind? Priceless.

I take NONE of my cars to Jiffy-Lube.
I hear they give you used deep fryer oil.

d

Do they have a welding machine?

 

[DougF]

If you do it yourself, buy a hydraulic floor jack, floor stands and an oil filter wrench. The money you save in about three years will pay for these items.

 

[Guest]

I wouldn't take any of my cars to Jiffy Lube if my life depended on it. I have a co-worker friend who brought her Saturn there a few years back and they did not tighten the drain plug. A few miles down the road the plug worked it's way out, the oil drained out, and the motor seized. She had to fight with them for weeks to get them to pay for a new motor for that car.

I'd also recommend staying away from synthetics for these motors, traditional oils will work just fine. I've recently made the switch to using diesel oil, Chevron Delo to be exact, on the recommendation of my LBC mechanic friend. He claims that the diesel oils provide more stable oil pressure numbers as the motor gets hot. Cars that he's worked on that have the pressure fall way off when they get fully hot can maintain higher numbers using these oils. Plus I've read some info on the zinc additives that most diesel oils still carry in them that is beneficial to flat tappet motors. These additives have been removed over the years for the most part from gas engine oils in the name of lowered emissions and advances in engine design, and are slowly being removed from newer diesel oils also. There was a good article on all this some time ago, can't remember where I read it. If I find it I'll post a link. If I remember correctly you want the oils that still have the older CI-4 or CI-4+ rating on the label, not the newer CJ-4 rating. The newer CJ formulations have little or no zinc additivies in them either, such as the current Mobil Delvac 1300 super and Chevron Delo 400 LE (low emission). I've found the older CI-4+ Delo formulation still around on the shelf at Pep Boys and Wal Mart for around $10/gallon, as well as Shell Rotella with this rating. I've just changed my oil this weekend to the Delo and I haven't driven the car yet so I don't have any initial impressions.

 

[Tinster]

Yes Bill, they have a welding mchine.
The same small box with a cable that ends in
a jumper cable clamp that holds a skinny
piece of metal rod. You touch the skinny rod
to other metal and sparks fly. A glob of weld
results.

Will this work out?

d

 

[Brosky]

This thread is starting to take a turn in the wrong direction if we're checking to see if Jiffy Lube has a welding machine. Now that is a really scary thought!

 

[achtungeveryone]

... if Jiffy Lube has a welding machine. Now that is a really scary thought!

Now entering another dimension.