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TR6 TR6 Crank pully bolt removal

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vinojai

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Hi- New member here.

So my '74 TR6 is going to get a new cam! I am closing in on removing the timig cover to access the old cam... I am not sure how to remove the large bolt that holds the pully wheel onto the crank. Naturally when I try to loosen it, the engine wants to turn as well. What is the generally accepted way of immobilizing the engine so I can loosen the bolt?

The engine has a nice finish so I dont want to put any tooling marks on it if possible. I suppose I can remove the starter and jam a screwdriver in a tooth of the ring gear... Is there a better way?

Also, does anyone know what size socket fits the head of that bolt?

Thanks,
Steve
 
If you have the oil sump off you can wedge the crank against the egine casing; I used a large socket between the crank counterweight and casing.
 
I don't recall the size although the book says 5/8. And, an impact will remove it, or should, but I wouldn't recommend using an impact to retighten it the 90-100 lb ft
 
I had to remove the oil pan, put a block of wood between the block and one of the middle crank arms, and loosen using a large breaker bar and socket (it was large one). I've done this twice over the past 2 years.

I tried an impact wrench to no avail.

Also, I didn't want to bind the gears with the transmission in first, and it kept rolling anyway.

There may be an easier route, but I figured that if I was removing the timing cover, no big deal to take the pan off, too. I found this process easy and felt that the torque wrench reading was probably more accurate this way.

I also had a good excuse to improve the pan gasket and eliminate some leaks.

Good luck.
 
Not all impact wrenches are created equal, and most are wildly optimistic in their torque ratings, IMO. I don't even bother with the 'little' one (rated 250 ftlb IIRC) as it won't turn much more than wheel nuts. Generally the "450 ftlb" one will take care of crank bolts & such ... I've never actually used the 850 ftlb that someone gave me (got rid of the motorhome before it wore out another set of tires).

Another method that I've heard of is to fit a breaker bar to the nut, arranged so the handle hits the (suitably padded) frame or floor; then hit the starter. But the impact has always done the trick for me.
 
TR3driver said:
Another method that I've heard of is to fit a breaker bar to the nut, arranged so the handle hits the (suitably padded) frame or floor; then hit the starter.
Click to expand...

Yes! This worked for me on the TR3 - like a charm. Double check which way the breaker bar is going to go and please be careful! Don't ask me the details - this was a couple of years ago - but I'm pretty sure it was against the garage floor.

Cheers!
 
Something about that method strikes me as rather dangerous, or at best, rife with opportunities for things to go wrong in a bad way if one is not VERY careful.

I would get out the 850 impact and call it a day in about 10 seconds....
 
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