TR4/4A TR4 Engine Pitting

[TRDejaVu]

The barn find engine is going back together. My M.O. is to get it running so I can check out the whole drivetrain before winter. Then if anything I don't know about needs doing, that will be the time. I have replaced the rings and con-rod bearings, but I anticipate doing a proper engine overhaul in a year or 2.

I am ready to put on the "new" head (it came without one). The top surface of a couple of liners have some pitting, as does a couple of place on the top of the block. Is there any sort of epoxy, or similar, that is strong and resistant enough that can can be used to smooth these out?

Thanks.

 

[PeterK]

You can use a spray copper head gasket sealer such as sold by GasketWorks for solid copper gaskets to seal small imperfections. Follow the directions and spray a couple of coats to build up a layer. Very important to let it dry as suggested to keep the sealer for immediately squishing out as you torque the head.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Ian,

Peter is right. That's probably the best product to use.

But, I have to share an interesting alternative.... I have seen more than a few old-timer mechanics use plain old silver or gold *metallic* spray paint as a head gasket sealer (yes, the "rattle cans" from your local Home Despot, etc.) Used it once myself, in an emergency on-the-road repair of a Ford truck 6-cyl. The engine sucked a loose screw from the air cleaner bracket... all the way into the #1 cylinder. No harm done, but the head needed to come off to remove the remainng pieces of the screw that were rattling aroudn inside, and a new head gasket needed. Whoops, the head and block weren't trued (engine was still in the van) and we didn't have any sealer. The high metallic content of some silver spray paint did the trick. It sealed that 6-cyl.'s head perfectly for the next 35,000 miles I drove it before selling it. (Hmmmm... That reminds me.... The relative I sold it to never actually got around to paying me for it!) After me, it was used in Phoenix AZ for commercial painting work and heavy hauling, and the old E150 was still running just fine a number of years later, although by then it was covered with paint spills inside and out.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Banjo]

Coppercoat spray is a good idea. Also remember that the liners are replaceable. the liners are more critical than the block, but when you get ready to do the proper rebuild you can shave the surface, just make sure the block and all the liners get exactly the same amount. The liners should stand above the block a bit. if not then the figure 8 gaskets on the bottom are crushed and need replaced.
Also make absoulutly sure to retorque the head bolts and reset the valve clearance after you have gone through a warm up cycle, or the gasket WILL fail in short order.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I replied to Ian off-forum but repeat it here for the benefit of comment from those with more experience. Of course, we can't see the pits in the liners and block so it is hard to say if copper-spray will be enough (are they pin-holes or the Grand Canyon?):

On a non-TR engine I have used JB Weld to fill pits on the block/head. This is a pretty common repair on VW wasserboxers. Those are aluminum engines but I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a TRactor.

 

[trfourtune]

there is a product, it's called "belzona-1121 super xl-metal".surfaces have to be sand blasted. it is a 2-part metal filler that is machined after to repair the damage. very expensive,distributor miami florida 33172 usa, make in uk. this is an industrrial product. if you had a serious problem and the only alternative was to junk the part,this might do the trick.
rob