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Third brake light advice

BabaKahawa

Jedi Knight
Offline
I have looked for a magnetic third brake light system on the web, I have found nothing, but for towing. I saw one at conclave, but missed the owner.
Has anyone found or used a magnetic third brake light. Can you give me any information or advice?
 
Thanks.
I did that, they work great.
I thought I may need other lights higher up and as bright as possible.
I am also thinking of replacing the old lamps with LED or some such.
 
BabaKahawa said:
I have looked for a magnetic third brake light system on the web, I have found nothing, but for towing. I saw one at conclave, but missed the owner.
Has anyone found or used a magnetic third brake light. Can you give me any information or advice?

Have you looked at what Watsons-streetworks offers?
Try this LINK
 
I have followed the suggestion of one AH UE customer on this list and have acquired on e bay for USD10+S&H (HogKong??) this
strip- photographed during the wiring tests of my frame
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/W3WBQLC6Q5ew8MBINCTQoA?feat=directlink
my intention is to place a steel strip under it, a felt protection under the strip, and a magnet on the boot (speaker magnet??
Andrea)
PS I have modified my wiring and have one wire dedicated to the brakes lights
 
Third brake lights are a nice idea if you like the look of the addition. However, I would caution that replacing your other lights with LEDs may not be such a bright idea.

A little while back I found that my brake switch had stuck on and the MR16 high-intensity 20W lights I installed behind my original plastic reflector lenses had started to melt. Since I do like the added illumination of having lights behind the reflectors, I searched for a cooler alternative light sources and focused on LEDs. As a result of my research and experimentation, hear is some of what I have learned:

1. The choice of 1156 and 1157 LED replacements is quite broad and, although many state equal or greater illumination to 115X incandescent, very few meet that commitment.
2. Contrary to common incandescent practice, the LED chosen must be the same color as the lens or a large portion if its light output will be filtered out.
3. LEDs do generate heat at its base rather than at the bulb and high output units require a heat sink that, if not built into the bulb, must be added.
4. LEDs are sensitive to current deviations where incandescent are sensitive to voltage. A separate current control must be installed if not incorporated in the bulb’s design.
5. Although the benefit of an LED is its low amperage draw, if used with a flasher, either a large resistor must be installed with each light (greatly eliminating that benefit) or an electronic flasher must be substituted for your original.
6. Common LED replacements incorporate two types of LEDs (Surface Mount a Bulb) with SMDs potentially providing greater lumens per source.
7. If installed correctly, LED longevity is greater than incandescent, however when considering the time/use we put our LBCs through, either lighting source should last for many many years.
8. Good 115X LED replacements are not inexpensive and $25/bulb is today’s reasonable price.

I did install relatively inexpensive LEDs behind my reflectors that were stated to be much brighter than 1156s by their manufacturer. My satisfaction with these lights is marginal at best and this experience has convinced me to put off further LED lighting conversions until a reasonably priced total solution can be found.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1 Healey)




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This wireless system has some real merits, though it is expensive and the vendor says they are on backorder.

Wireless LED Magnetic Lights

I have not tried them, but it looks like you could install the transmitter on your Healey wiring and operate the light that way. No need to route wiring through the trunk opening.

I added magnets to a standard truck LED longitudinal insert lamp assembly and put it on the trunk of my Healey. This works OK, but I had to change the car polarity to negative ground for the LED. I could have avoided this with a relay, but changing the polarity was easy -- my car had no radio or other features sensitive to polarity.

The truck LED is certainly visible. The standard lighting on a Healey is so small and low that even with halogen bulbs, most folks can't see them. I have experience with this, I follow Healeys often at various events. It inspired me to get a higher, brighter light installed on mine.
 
This is an interesting subject because I believe that the correct bulb for stop lights on the Healey is a 12v 6/21 watt bulb for stop and side lights. This is the same wattage as used on many modern cars thus it should be as bright as the brake lights on a modern car. Mine seems to be as bright as on my modern Saab so could it be that maybe many of the dim lamps are caused by bad earths on the lampholders rather than the lamps themselves. Or possibly that the filaments are reversed so you have bright side lights and dim brake lights. I too am experimenting with LEDs in various places, dash ilumination etc but the have very directional narrow beams that from many angles can hardly be seen at all. As brake lights I'd be wary because a driver not directly behind would not see them and some instances.

Ian
 
tahoe healey, Ausmhly, andrea, Ray, Healey100, and Ian.
Thanks for all the info.
I am looking at the web sites and digesting all the information.
Appreciate it.......
 
British car Specialties has a Kit that solves this problem, give David a call
 
Tahoe,
Do you have a diagram and parts list for how to do this?
rich
Hi Rich
I have make for you and for friends of BCF one of my Google album, IMGP1048A.jpg with my solution
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/REARSTOP?authkey=Gv1sRgCKujos7HyLKRTw
It is not perfect, I shall have one more long LED strip,to goal my intention
one other possibility is to place the led strip on the rear bumper just over the plate light - BUT I have find this position too lowe
we have also added two e bay UK address where you can find the same strip that I have used
Cheers

NOTE. My car are NEGATIVE Grounded, and some MOD at the wiring harness was done- Turn Relay are over passed -and a brake wire added to rear(22 Green/Purple)-also Rear Turn Lights was added so the rear RED lights now works only for Tail and Brakes
see my Wiring Diagram https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/SCHEMAImproved1006
I have also find one RANDY ?? solution to fasten the LED strip to the boot cover directly I will add the photo on NEXT
 
Last edited:
Hi,
I have set up a third break light using an LED unit from a mid '90's GM Astro van or Chevy Blazer. The contour of this unit closely matches the curve of the shroud and boot lid and has a nice low profile. It is wired through standard green/yellow/brown trailer wiring with a trailer connector in the trunk. It can be wired directly into the driver's side tail light and the whole unit can be removed in about 15 seconds for showing the car. I have magnets and a couple small clips to hold it in place. Works great and very visible day or night. I have also split the light (I think there are 15 LEDs in the unit) in half and have incorporated turn signals into it. I have one for each of our BN1 and BN6. If your BN6 still has a positive ground you will have to re-work the circuits a little since the LEDs are polarity sensitive. If you make it to Conclave look for the white with green interior BN1 from Ontario, I'd be glad to show you the set-up. Good Luck,
Dave
 
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