So the car is returned from XKmotorsports with intermittent starter problems, with good help from Dave at British Starters I get the wiring correct and feeling smug I take it out for a run and see that the rev counter is not working so I go home and start to look into it, Since owning l985 I had noticed that where the two wires come up out of the loom along the firewall (just under rear SU), the two wires that go to the little generator back of cam for RPM signaled by voltage through those wires, were covered in elec. tape all the way to the spades onto the generator. However sometime years earliler a connector just before wire went into loom had come apart. Now the tach worked just fine so I let it be.
Now the tach was not working, I reconnected the open connecter and tach took to sitting at 2000 revs and moving in a herky-jerky manner when engine revved. I put a volt meter on it and that wire was carrying 12 V. With generator wires disconnected , the 12 V was still coming up the wire when voltmeter other side to ground.
Bought car from Uk car enthusiast, had auto airconditioning shop, on test drive smoke out of dash. Bought on condition he fixed it which he did. Wanted to see what might be amiss on back of tach, pulled it forward from dash and could see probable remains of dusky smoke but the electrical tape wire rap continued on the two wires all the way to the connectors on tach. Running up firewall when tape removed correct color to schematic, could not tell under dash.
I guess erratic tach caused by 12 volts. On same line of thought maybe somewhere along time someone did something to wiring that inject 12 volts into system.. Under dash each of the two wires single as along firewall.
The weird part is that tach had always worked with that one wire having a disconnected terminal along firewall untill things got moved around in gearboz-engine removal. The schematic in Haynes book has separate box for tach simply showing the connections from generator to tach and back. No other wiring involved in counting revs.
Anything I am concluding wrong and suggestions for further trouble shooting. Sure tach once worked since remember doing calculation to see if it could really go 150 mph. no way---kerblammo
As always thanks and gratitude, Jay
Now the tach was not working, I reconnected the open connecter and tach took to sitting at 2000 revs and moving in a herky-jerky manner when engine revved. I put a volt meter on it and that wire was carrying 12 V. With generator wires disconnected , the 12 V was still coming up the wire when voltmeter other side to ground.
Bought car from Uk car enthusiast, had auto airconditioning shop, on test drive smoke out of dash. Bought on condition he fixed it which he did. Wanted to see what might be amiss on back of tach, pulled it forward from dash and could see probable remains of dusky smoke but the electrical tape wire rap continued on the two wires all the way to the connectors on tach. Running up firewall when tape removed correct color to schematic, could not tell under dash.
I guess erratic tach caused by 12 volts. On same line of thought maybe somewhere along time someone did something to wiring that inject 12 volts into system.. Under dash each of the two wires single as along firewall.
The weird part is that tach had always worked with that one wire having a disconnected terminal along firewall untill things got moved around in gearboz-engine removal. The schematic in Haynes book has separate box for tach simply showing the connections from generator to tach and back. No other wiring involved in counting revs.
Anything I am concluding wrong and suggestions for further trouble shooting. Sure tach once worked since remember doing calculation to see if it could really go 150 mph. no way---kerblammo
As always thanks and gratitude, Jay