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Stuck in 1st Gear

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theleisure

theleisure

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Well, the minor issues with my transmission have gotten a little worse. The gearbox is now stuck in 1st gear. Researching old posts makes me think that it's a jammed fork but if you've got a better idea let me know.

Am I correct that the best way to free this up is to drain the fluid, take off the side cover and then actuate the shift rods with a screw-driver or similar device?
 
The issue with the tranny getting stuck in first is that the actual gear itself can travel too far to the point where part #93 begins comes out just enough to lock it in first. You have to push the plunger in while shifting out of first and into neutral. I don't know what the where part is that causes this but I put a metal shim (washer) on the shift rod to limit the travel when shifting into first. This is not the proper fix but since I don't know why it happens I don't know what the proper fix is.
 

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I believe you'll find its the three little #49s that become slightly exposed when first gear slider moves too far toward the rear of the box. The three balls try to pop out and get far enough to keep the slider from being pushed back into place easily. A washer placed on the 1st gear shift shaft (at the very back) limits the rearward travel and cures the problem. For now, you may find that if you start the engine with the clutch in, then start down the street in first(of course), pull sharply back towards second with pulsing HARD tugs on the shifter (Pull-Pull-Pull!!). It may pop back into second. My A35 does it once or twice a year and the tug trick saves me from actually having to open the box and add the washer. On another ribcase, it wouldn't work and I had to add the washer.
Good luck.

Glen Byrns
 
Well, the PULL, PULL, PULL trick didn't work and a replacement box is in the mail. i bought one off of ebay--the one with the blurry picture and a one line description "all the gears work."

I'm going to do the swap right after the holidays. what other parts do i HAVE TO replace during a transmission swap? is it just a set of gaskets or is it pretty much a must to replace the transmission mounts too?
 
I'd be doing the clutch while it was apart/ thrust bearing/ motor mounts and possibly universals
 
My clutch parts were all good (receipts suggested 2,000 miles on them) so I cheaped out and put all three (pressure plate, clutch plate, release bearing) right back in. I did do new motor mounts and tranny mounts but probably didn't have to. I guess what I'm saying is if the old parts have life left, you can get away without replacing anything. I don't even think there's any gaskets involved as I recall, but I've only done 1 so far!
My old gearbox is sitting waiting for me to rebuild it for when the one I put in last spring gives it up. Now you have a spare too!
 
A new rear seal for the e-bay tranny, a fresh dab of grease for the pilot bushing, a close look at the throwout "bearing" remaining thickness, check and lube the U-joint, don't forget to reattach the ground strap and remember to fill the trans AFTER inserting the yoke. I heard a guy forgot once.

On your stuck one, through the side cover you can see the bulge of the spring loaded balls trying to get past the over-traveled 1st gear slider. With three or four hands and several screwdrivers you can exert forward force on the slider while trying to depress two of the three balls at the same time. Just as much fun as it sounds. While you poke it and swear, you can see the position of 1st shift fork and it becomes clear where the washer needs to go to prevent it ever happening again.

Glen
 
Try dropping it on it input shaft from about 4 to 6 in. on to a 2X4 belive it or not some times it works.
 
my buddy dan who built my transmission said that you have to put a little washer in on first gear to keep the shifter form going to far forward so if you pull the box thats my suggestion
 
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