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Steel wheels and tubes

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Jedi Knight
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I took my old tires,Michelien's with tubes, off thier steel wheels to prep for new tires.They appear to be original 5"wide rims,59 tr3,with riveted centers.
Did they originally have tubes?
Planned replacements are Vredestein 165x15 Classics,when they come off national backorder.
Thanks
Tom /
 
Cannot say if they originally had tubes, but when I bought a Vredestein spare, I used a tube I bought from TRF to inflate it. Never had a problem with leakage for a long time. Insurance.
 
Most modern tires are not rated for use with tubes (the tubes increase heat buildup and so reduce the speed rating of the tire). So depending on the tire shop you use, they may refuse to install them with tubes.
 
I drove for a couple decades with tubes in the steel wheels in the mistaken notion that I was supposed to. Finally learned (via the internet of course) that this was unneccesary and just pulled a valve into the hole in the rim and mounted tubeless.

Never had a problem either way but consider the tube 'just one more thing to go wrong'.
 
Going through tire problems I found that several of the places I usually get TBA's from found it amusing when I asked for repair of a leak. A local small tire biz told me he had never repaired a tube type tire. I even asked him if he ever repaired a bike tire and he just grinned (I don't think he had). My main tire supplier, NTB, did not have any tubes for any thing much less knowledge about the differences of tubes for radial ply vs bias ply tubes for tube type tires. My Michelin tube gave up the ghost around the valve stem and could not be repaired. So on goes the Good year red wall spare and it is a tubeless type! How do you tell? It is written on the side wall of the tire. I would be concerned about a tube tire running necked :lol:
 
I have driven 22,000 miles on my 4 Vredestein Sprint 165-15 radials mounted on steel wheels and have had no tubes and no issues. Prior to these, I ran 4 Kelly Springfield Centreds with no tubes and before that drove 43,000 miles on Michelins with no tubes. Only had two punctures (on two rear Vredesteins - roofing nails the same type a few days after a local village car show) in over 105,000 miles with my 1958 TR3A in 21 summers. I can only assume that someone didn't like me or my TR.
 
Have had similar experience as Don (albeit fewer miles). Back when tube type and tubeless tires were available (I think the antique repro guys still make some tube types) we went with the tire type. If the tires said tubeless, no tubes; if they didn't, tubes. The exception was that we usually used tubes with wire wheels, regardless of the tires, since they tended to leak at the spokes. Did that for the occasional leaky steel wheel too, it was easier than sealing the wheel. We (I) didn't know about speed ratings back then. Tom
 
I asked these questions some months ago when I installed new "tubeless" Vredesteins and tubes on my wire wheels. I got a lot of good information and advice at the time.

1. All agree that tubes in tubeless tires are required with wire wheels, but it is important to install tubes mades especially for this purpose (good quality tubes) and install rim strips or wrap duck tape around the rims to protect the tubes from rubbing against the spoke ends.

2. Many said that old steel wheels present as much of a problem with leaking that wire wheels do and that tubes can and probably should be used in them.

3. It is generally agreed that problems with tubes in tubeless tires occur mainly at high speeds and heavy weight. The main culprit is heat. Since the tire loading is small with a British roadster, however,and since you're not likely to spend much time at 80 mph and above, there probably won't be a problem because there's less chance of excessive heat.

4. Folks recommend 32psi in front and 35 psi in rear with Vredesteins.

Bottom line: You've got to use tubes in tubeless tires mounted on wire wheels and, with these small roadsters and at reasonable speeds and rim strips, there should be no problem.

I'm no expert, but this is what I have been told and have been running tubes in my tubeless Vedresteins for months with no problems.
 
Ed,Thanks.I have steel wheels but they are riveted and some previous owmer had the tubes put in,maybe leaks or just a precaution. Hopefully some paint and they wont leak,if they do I agree and would use good tubes.Actaually I would be more concerned that the inside of the tubless tire might harm the tube,but sonds like it's all been done with no problems.
Have Fun
Tom
 
LexTR3 said:
...and install rim strips or wrap duck tape around the rims to protect the tubes from rubbing against the spoke ends...
Click to expand...

Actually, I think duct tape is not a good choice here. I use a PVC tape sold by Ace Hardware and others. Costs more and the roll will probably be a lifetime supply but does not deteriorate. Save the other stuff for, well, taping ducks I guess.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]...and since you're not likely to spend much time at 80 mph and above, there probably won't be a problem...[/QUOTE]

You've forgotten what it is like to drive across the Sonoran Desert.
 
George,

I agree with you about duck tape, but that was one idea expressed to me. When I asked why "tape" rather than a rubber "rim strip," I wqas told that the strips can shift position while tape holds its place. But in my opinion, duck tape gets warm and gooey and tends to break down and move around... So something like PVC tape sounds much better.

I have rim strips on my wire wheels and no tape.

Ha, ha... yes. I once outran a tornado in Oklahoma in an open 58TR3 doing 110 mph. But that was in my youth! I rarely do more than 50 mph, and the speed limit on the Blue Ridge Parkway is 45 -- perfect for a road trip.
 
The big 3 are selling wires that have the spokes sealed using silicone.
They look like they could handle tubeless tires. I didn't try on the ones I
got. I also expect it's a bit of a mess when it comes time to true them and/or replace spokes.
Frank
 
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