OK- here is everything that I have on the kit.
Bill
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This is currently just for the normal 1275 engine but would fit any "A" block if the backing plate has the ridge ground off. Also the locktab that I supply is only for the 1275- use with any other engine would require a new flywheel lockring appropriate to the engine.
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Materials required:
This kit uses the components from any Datsun 1200,210 or B210- they all fit the same:
1/ transmission, either 4 or 5 speed. This includes trans, shifter, throwout bearing and fork, speedometer cable, etc.
2/ Starter ringgear
3/ Clutch disk & pressure plate
4/ Starter motor that is 6 ¾” from flange to tail, NOT one that is 7 ½” long flange to tail.
5/ Clutch slave-to-fork rod w/ nut
6/ The flexible clutch line from the slave cylinder.
7/ The B-nut from the metal clutch hydraulic line.
Other equipment required:
1/ Driveshaft adapter yoke; Rivergate, Morrisservice or Mini Mania. They all work the same; Rivergate’s is the least expensive and is of excellent quality.
2/ Clutch slave cylinder: NAPA #United 37498
3/ Transmission rear seal (only if required): NAPA #11615CR
4/ Late model (1500) Midget shifter cover (gaiter)
Flywheel Preparation:
-I have a local shop who will do all of the following flywheel modifications for $50.00. You need to provide all shipping and a Datsun starter ringgear.
1/ Pull out the (3) locator pins from the Spridget pressure plate.
2/ Turn down the ringgear and flywheel to 9.466” +/-.002” diameter x .75” +/-.06” deep (Sketch xx)
3/ Turn front (clutch) side of flywheel flat
4/ Drill and tap (6) 5/16-24 unf holes through and (2) ¼ “ diameter holes .25” deep on a bolt circle of 8.490” to match holes in Datsun pressure plate. (third ¼ “ hole which matches offset pressure plate hole is omitted).
5/ Tap the Datsun ringgear onto the modified Spridget flywheel using a block of wood and a hammer.
Shifter Preparation:
1/ Saw shifter off to approximately 8” long.
2/ Drill and tap a 5/16-18 hole approximately 1” deep in the end.
3/ Screw a 2” long piece of 5/16-18 “allthread” in, thread 5/16-18 hexnut on and attach shifter knob.
4/ The original metal shifter cover will not allow the shifter to work so I just use a 1500 Midget Gaiter (flexible cover).
Equipment:
-For almost all of the cutting/grinding that is required on this job I have found that the cheapest “Harbor Freight” right-angle grinder (around $18.00 usually) works great. I use it to modify the transmission, cut off the Spridget backing plate and cut off the shifter. Great investment.
Hardware list:
Item: Qty: Type: Use:
1 1 Large adapter plate (upper)
2 1 Small adapter plate (lower)
3 1 Transmission mount
4 4 5/16-18 unc x 2 ½” long Socket flathead screw Large back plate to trans.
5 1 5/16-18 unc x 2 ½” long Hexhead cap screw Large back plate to trans
6 2 5/16-18 unc x 1 ½” long Socket flathead screw Small back plate to trans
7 3 5/16-18 unf x 1” long Socket flathead screw Large back plate to eng
8 6 5/16-18 unf x 1 ¼ ” long Hexhead cap screw Large back plate to eng
9 2 5/16-18 unc x 1” long Socket flathead screw Small back plate to eng
10 2 5/16-18 unc x 1” long Hexhead cap screw Trans mount
11 17 5/16” lockwasher
12 12 5/16-18 unc Hexnut
13 2 3/8” lockwasher
14 2 3/8-24 unc Hexnut
15 2 3/8” dia x 1” long locator dowel To align large back plate to trans
16 1 3/16 hex key (Allen wrench)
17 1 Clutch alignment tool (wood)
18 1 Flywheel lockplate
19 1 Pilot bushing
20 2 Flywheel to Pressure plate alignment pins
21 1 Clutch slave cylinder adapter block
22 1 Starter jumper wire
23 1 ¼” npt Pipe plug Replace backup switch in trans
24 1 5/16-18 x 2” long “allthread” For shifter-to-knob connection
25 2/2 10mm x 30mm long Hexhead cap screw 2 for starter, 2 for clutch slave cylinder
TRANSMISSION PREPARATION:
1/ Remove “Rhino horn” from transmission.
2/ Hold adapter plate up to transmission and scribe around the oil pump cover area. Clear away this area about ½” back into the transmission using a file or power grinder.
3/ Remove the back-up light switch (see ill XXX) and replace with the ¼”NPT plug from the kit (use gasket sealer).
4/ Remove the shifter and modify, see sheet 1.
5/ Replace the rear transmission seal at this time if you need to. (NAPA UNITED p/n 11615CR)
6/ Verify that the clutch arm is free and that the spring returns it fully back and that the throw out bearing is in good condition.
7/ If you have a Datsun 1200 transmission then you must drill out the two lower holes (6mm threaded) to 5/16” diameter.
DISASSEMBLING CAR:
8/ Unbolt and remove your driveshaft per your shop manual.
9/ Replace original front yoke with adapter yoke from Riverside, Morrisservice, MiniMania, etc. (do this as if replacing your front u-joint, per your shop manual)
10/ Remove the engine/transmission assembly per your shop manual.
11/ Remove the large wire from both the starter and relay, enlarge hole in starter end to 5/16” dia.
12/ Reroute the metal clutch line to the left side of the engine compartment, add Datsun B-nut and flare.
13/ If you have a crossflow radiator, remove the radiator crossover pipe near the steering rack (this makes installation easier).
14/ Separate engine from transmission.
MODIFYING ENGINE:
15/ Remove the pressure plate and clutch disk. Retain screws for future use.
16/ Remove flywheel. Get it reworked now. (Illustration XXX)
17/ Remove Spridget pilot bushing
18/ Insert new pilot bushing small end first using a wooden block against the bushing and tap in lightly up to shoulder.
19/ Cut off backing plate as shown in illustration XXX.
20/ Remove (4) 5/16-24 hex head bolts from the engine backing plate (1/2” wrench) per illustration XXX. DO NOT REMOVE ANY MORE THAN THOSE SHOWN.
21/ Place (4) 5/16-18 unc x 2 ½” long flat head screws into countersunk holes in large adapter plate.
22/ Hold large adapter plate up to engine with long bolts pointing toward you, locate plate to engine by top dowel in engine.
23/ Insert (3) 5/16-24 unf x 1” long flat head screws into countersunk holes in adapter plate and run them down loosely. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM YET.
24/ Insert (6) 5/16-24 unf x 1 ¼” long hex head cap screws with lock washers into the remaining open holes in the large adapter plate and run them down loosely. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM YET.
25/ Place (2) short flat-head bolts 5/16-18 unc x 1 ½” long into the inner holes of the small adapter plate, locate this to the lower section of the engine backing plate with the screws pointing toward you, insert (2) more flat-head bolts 5/16-18 x 1.0 long into the exposed countersunk holes and put one lock washer and nut on each.
26/ Fully tighten all adapter bolts to 15 ft-lbs. Tighten flat-head screws first, hex-head screws last.
27/ Mount reworked flywheel per your shop manual using supplied lock washer. Be sure to carefully torque bolts and bend lock washer to specifications.
28/ Insert (2) pressure plate alignment pins in flywheel.
29/ Mount Datsun clutch disk and pressure plate using supplied alignment tool and Spridget bolts and lock washers. Tighten per shop manual specifications.
ASSEMBLING ENGINE/TRANSMISSION:
30/ Assemble transmission to engine in the normal manner. All gaps should close normally, if not then check that sufficient clearance has been made inside the transmission for the oil pump cover. This is VERY important.
n I have found that holding a small flat blade screwdriver on the bolt heads inside the hex will stop their turning until they hold themselves.
31/ Tighten nuts evenly and do not torque any until all are drawn up evenly.
32/ Add last bolt (5/16unc x 2 ½ “ long hex head) with lock washer and nut, above starter hole.
33/ Torque all nuts to 15 ft-lbs.
34/ By hand move the clutch release lever forward and aft. It should easily touch the front of the hole and stop about 2/3 of the way to the back of the hole (from hitting the pressure plate inside). If this is not so then something is wrong.
35/ Be sure that the new slave cylinder is pushed all the way in and insert the original Datsun clutch slave actuating rod. Attach the slave cylinder to the transmission using the (2) 10mm x 30mm long bolts, lock washers and spacer supplied. Do not remove the protective plastic plug from the hydraulic line port yet.
36/ Adjust the actuating rod until there is about 1/8” free play when the cylinder is fully compressed before contacting the pressure plate. See illustration XXX
37/ Install the rear motor mount (transmission mount) using (2) 5/16-18 unc x 1” long hex head cap screws with lock washers and nuts.
38/ Install the Datsun starter motor using (2) 10mm x 30mm long hex head cap screws with lock washers. Use no spacers, etc. Add the jumper wire and large Spridget starter wire to the terminals as shown (illustration XXX)
39/Slit the housing at the speedometer end of the Datsun speedometer cable using a hacksaw , slit the metal housing in-line with the cable, pry open and discard it. Attach the transmission end of the speedometer cable to the transmission, start the cable toward the rear of the transmission and loop around. Bring the cable under the transmission and up the driver’s side of the bell housing. Lay the end of the cable over the intake manifold for later assembly into the car.
ASSEMBLING CAR:
40/ Install engine/transmission assemblies into your car per your shop manual. If the fit is extremely tight then removing the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) will often help.
41/ Install the driveshaft per your shop manual.
42/ The two original 3/8-24 unf transmission bolts that come up from the bottom will accept the 3/8-24 unf nuts and lock washers from the kit. The side bolts are no longer used.
43/ Attach the flexible clutch slave hose to the new clutch slave cylinder and attach the metal line to the other end of the hose. Bleed the system. Be sure that the clutch peddle feels “correct” before attempting to start the engine.
HOOKING UP THE SPEEDOMETER
44/ Remove the speedometer from the dashboard. Using the point of a 16 penny nail - turn the speedometer in both directions. If it turns FREELY then it is time to hook it up, if it doesn’t turn freely then it is first time to lubricate it and THEN time to hook it up. I lubricate it with common ball-joint grease in the internal gears and 30 weight or 3-in-1 oil to the input spindle and it works fine.
45/ When the speedometer turns freely then it is time to bring the cable in through the firewall and the dashboard. Press the clear vinyl 3” long tube over the speedometer cable threads and secure with a hoseclamp. Slide the other hoseclamp over the tubing but don’t tighten yet. Slide the Datsun speedometer cable end into the tubing and into the end of the speedometer until it is fully seated but don’t force it to bend. Slide the second hoseclamp down until it is over the cable housing and tighten. Reinstall the speedometer.
Adapter plate specifications:
3/8” thick aluminum plate
Hole locations:
.3750 Dia dowel holes (for Datsun transmission):
0, 0
11.127, 0
.3438 dia dowel holes (for Spridget engine)
2.042, -1.640
5.367, 6.047
.344 dia bolt holes
-.331, -1.694
.828, -.414
8.857, -1.521
11.468, -1.687
4.176, 6.024
6.550, 6.073
8.228, 1.044
.344 dia bolt holes w/c-sink in front
.218, .926
2.734, 3.487
8.107, 3.603
3.114, -7.494
3.605, -7.866
.344 dia bolt holes w/c-sink in back
-.331, -1.694
3.679, 4.521
7.849, 4.515
10.130, 1.756
7.540, -7.863
8.242, -7.376
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