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MTribe
Jedi Hopeful
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Works just like static timing with points. Note, however, that you need to apply power to the red lead of the pertronix ignitor unit while doing this, whether that be via the ignition key turned with the harness all wired up, or a 12V source applied to that lead.
NOTE: I heard something about not leaving power applied to the ignitor with the engine running. Please do this at your own risk, unless someone can step in and correct this technique! I simply applied power for 10 seconds or so, just enough to set the timing, and removed it. Seemed to work for me and not damage anything.
Here's the setup:
- If your harness is not hooked up (i.e., bare distributor with nothing connected), apply 12 V to the red ignitor lead (in which case the wiring harness should NOT be connected to the coil). If your harness is hooked up, turn the key in the ignition to apply power to the ignitor.
- Connect one side of a test lamp to the negative ignitor lead (disconnected from coil... note the red ignitor lead can be left on the coil or disconnected... I found the coil terminal a convenient place to apply 12V to all the leads)
- Ground the test lamp and 12V supply (if applicable) to engine ground.
- Turn timing wheel to static timing point (4deg BTDC in my case, varies with distributor, look up in Bentley)
- Rotate distributor until the light just turns out, and clamp the distributor down. Timing should be close enough to enable the engine to run.
Troubleshooting for novices like myself:
- Be sure the distributor rotor points toward the number one cylinder plug wire when cylinder one is near TDC, transitioning between compression and combustion stroke. You can check this by making sure the rotor points to the #1 plug wire when the valves for cylinder six are both in motion. If it's pointing at the #6 cylinder, take the distributor out, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall.
- If the timing light never lights, and you had your distributor drive gear out for a rebuild, for example, your drive gear may be off by a tooth. Try taking the distributor rotational clamp bolt out, and rotating the distributor beyond the range the bolt normally allows. If the light lights, then take the distributor drive gear out and rotate it by a tooth (or however much you need) to get it back in the range allowed by the clamp bolt.
Any corrections or additions welcome!
NOTE: I heard something about not leaving power applied to the ignitor with the engine running. Please do this at your own risk, unless someone can step in and correct this technique! I simply applied power for 10 seconds or so, just enough to set the timing, and removed it. Seemed to work for me and not damage anything.
Here's the setup:
- If your harness is not hooked up (i.e., bare distributor with nothing connected), apply 12 V to the red ignitor lead (in which case the wiring harness should NOT be connected to the coil). If your harness is hooked up, turn the key in the ignition to apply power to the ignitor.
- Connect one side of a test lamp to the negative ignitor lead (disconnected from coil... note the red ignitor lead can be left on the coil or disconnected... I found the coil terminal a convenient place to apply 12V to all the leads)
- Ground the test lamp and 12V supply (if applicable) to engine ground.
- Turn timing wheel to static timing point (4deg BTDC in my case, varies with distributor, look up in Bentley)
- Rotate distributor until the light just turns out, and clamp the distributor down. Timing should be close enough to enable the engine to run.
Troubleshooting for novices like myself:
- Be sure the distributor rotor points toward the number one cylinder plug wire when cylinder one is near TDC, transitioning between compression and combustion stroke. You can check this by making sure the rotor points to the #1 plug wire when the valves for cylinder six are both in motion. If it's pointing at the #6 cylinder, take the distributor out, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall.
- If the timing light never lights, and you had your distributor drive gear out for a rebuild, for example, your drive gear may be off by a tooth. Try taking the distributor rotational clamp bolt out, and rotating the distributor beyond the range the bolt normally allows. If the light lights, then take the distributor drive gear out and rotate it by a tooth (or however much you need) to get it back in the range allowed by the clamp bolt.
Any corrections or additions welcome!
