TR6 removing engine, TR6

[Bill Redd]

As many of you have experienced....
My original goal was to redo the interior, and repaint the car. Now with the interior out, and most of the exterior stuff off the car, I might as well remove the engine and tranny, and clean them up at the same time... This may end up being a much longer project than I thought. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

My first question... Should I remove the engine and tranny as a unit, or tranny through the interior, and engine by itself?

Next question... What should I put together to hold the engine while it's out? If I get some 4x4's or something, how far up on the block do I need to be to hold the weight?

Thanks for any and all suggestions. I've never removed an engine before, but I might as well start now!

 

[Kurtis]

Bill,

I've never removed the engine and transmission together, but having removed the engine from my TR4 once, and the transmission from my previous TR6 a couple of times, I would think that it would be easier to remove them together since you plan to take them both out (assuming you have an adequate hoist system).

Kurtis

 

[jeff3113]

My .02 worth would be to take the entire setup out attached. I did find it necessary to really tilt the engine and tranny to get it out. It took a couple hours using air tools. Having replaced it with a V8, come to think of it I still have it on blocks in my garage. Guess it will need to find a home someday.

I'm sure it would also pay to go through the engine seals and clutch while it is out.
All the best.
Jeff

 

[Bill Redd]

Jeff: I had similar thoughts about the seals and clutch. Somewhere, the engine is blowing some oil onto the underside of the hood. If that's going to be covered in new paint, might as well try and keep it clean!

 

[Guest]

Bill,
Removing the engine/tranny from your TR6 is no big deal.
You will need an engine hoist with a bar that will allow you to tilt the engine unit. I would recommend you dropping the front of the car as far as possible by removing the front wheels and using some short jack stands to hold the frame. Get the tail up somewhat higher. This will facilitate the tilt that you will need to get the tranny to clear the firewall. Just follow the instructions in your Bentley book. You can pull this off in a few hours. I first removed the oil pan and then sat the whole unit on a rectangular box I made out of 4x4 pine. The engine rested perfectly on the flat surface of the bottom of the block, around the edge where the pan was bolted.
Make sense?

Bill

 

[Bill Redd]

Thanks Dr. Bill...
Just what I needed to know. I'll line up a hoist, get my 4x4's and get moving...As soon as I get the yard done, the sprinklers fixed, etc. etc. etc. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Hegg]

Haha, I hear ya on the list of stuff that "has" to take priority! I removed my engine/tranny a few weeks ago from my TR7, and it's still sitting there waiting for me to pay some attention!

I don't know how similar the TR6 and TR7 are, but it literally took my dad and I about 15 minutes to get the whole assembly out of the car. That's with everything unhooked and unbolted already, but I was expecting it to be a few hour job just to pull it out.

Even unhooking everything wasn't that big of a deal. Just had to find all the bolts and undo them. The hardest part was getting the lower engine mount undone.

Good luck, and send some pics!

 

[GeorgesTR6]

Jeff, what did you use as the V8 you replaced the 2.5 with. I'm giving some thought to just that, but would prefer to stay with the Rover 3.5 - 3.9 as oppposed to small block Fords or Chevies. I can't locate anyone with background on this type of swap. Any thoughts? Thanks, George

 

[jeff3113]

George,
I picked up a early Chevy 350. IT had been sitting out front of my friends garage for sometime. A local machine shop did the crank regrind and cam bearing install. I put it together myself. Basically the SBC decision was one of parts availability. It turned out to be a bit heavier than I had planned - even with all the aluminum parts I could find. One thing is it does have one heck of alot of torque!
The wife and I cruised around the past weekend(I drove VERY conservatively). She really likes it. Highway stats are 2000rpm at 80 mph-effortlessly. It was alot of work to get there and a few $$. Lesson learned; I'd transplant a junked Camaro/Firebird rather than buying the parts here and there and putting it together. It would have cost me about half that way.
I've attached a pic from amonth ago.
Send along your questions.
Jeff

 

[screenprinter]

Bill,

I must be odd man out here, but when I pulled the guts out of my GT6+ I found it really easy to pull the tranny out through the cockpit ( With a little help from a friend ) and then pulling the block out the front with a hoist. Admittedly this was probably easier in a GT with the bonnet sitting on the floor beside it.

Going back though, it was A LOT EASIER to mate the gearbox to the engine and re-install them as a unit - The one time I did a clutch in the GT I just pulled the transmission out - Then absolutely could not get the gearbox to mate up to the engine plate - The owner of the local parts place told me to gently jack up the rear of the engine to correct the sag it had taken when the support of the gearbox and it's associated munting was removed.

The bottom line is, whatever woorks best for you is the correct way - good luck!.

 

[Bugeye58]

When pulling a tranny and leaving the engine installed ALWAYS support the rear of the engine BEFORE removing the trans.
And, I have found it much simpler in every case to remove them as a unit, rather than splitting them in the car.
Jeff

 

[Guest]

Screenprinter,
I have had to pull the tranny on my TR6 5 times and I agree that it is imperative to support the engine at the rear, in front of the plate. I shaved a 2x4 and wedged it in front of the plate then had to slightly raise or lower with jack to get the tranny to clear the firewall. Either way, the interior has to go. Pulling them as a unit is easier IF the engine has to come out. Tranny alone (clutch?), of course leave the engine in place. The bitch is aligning the the hood on the TR6. Man, it is soooo easy to misalign and do some paint damage.

Bill

 

[screenprinter]

Dr. Bill,

I gues the TR6 hood alignment F#@karound points out the "Fit and Finish" ( or the lack thereof ) issues all british car owner's enjoy. Believe me, what aggrevation I miss with my GT6 and it's vanishing front end I get back in spades with my Sprite - You should try aligning 2 junkyard fenders and a valence assembly on one of those little buggers - More fun than a Tobasco Sauce enema!