• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

proper type of gasoline

Share this page

tri_carb_healey

tri_carb_healey

Senior Member
Offline
i have a bt7 which for many years was run on regular 87 octane pump gas with lead substitute. lately i've been using premium, and my question is. would the lower grade octane cause the car to misfire or stutter? there used to be days that the car would simply not run well... lately hasn't been the case but the car hasn't taken any serious trips because it needs new drum shoes (which i've never done, hope it isn't hard). so when it's road worthy again i want to have real confidence in the car!!
i have a new electric fuel pump so delivery isn't an issue.
 
The octane rating will not cause the symptoms you describe. It would be either electrical or carb.
I have done the brakes, and it is not a big deal. But you should check for fluid leaks, and buy wheel cylinder rebuild kits. You should be familiar with the square adjustment screw and back it all the way back before installing the new shoes. Then adjust it to just before the shoes touch the brake drum with no audible dragging when you spin the drum. Take pictures and be prepared to struggle a bit with the springs. If you rebuild the wheel cylinders, you'll need to bleed the brakes. Good time to replace the brake fluid and bleed all wheels.
 
tri_carb_healey said:
would sticky carb jets cause this problem? or perhaps "old gasoline"?-

--Yes it sure could particularly if there is a little water in the fuel.

Regarding the brake shoes hope you have the original riveted on lining then send them out o be relined along with the drums to be arched--Fwiw--Keoke
Click to expand...
 
If the car has been standing any length of time the carbs may have gummed up a little and could need a clean. Had mine standing over the winter when I replaced the right hand floor and sills and could not get it to start never mind run. Ended up stripping the carbs. Rear brakes are easy, TK could be going over board with a cylinder rebuild, if it ain't broke don't fix it, unless you are entirely confident that it within your capabilities. Remove the shoes by lifting one corner out of the housing and the rest should fall out easy - note here see how the springs are located and which way around they are. Replacement - clean all the back plate down first, make sure that your hands are clean and assemble the shoes and springs off the car, install the bottom shoe first - the cam follower always falls out of the adjuster else, then one side of the top shoe into the handbrake holder and lift over the last corner into the top cam follower - that is the hardish bit. Adjust and bleed as a matter of course.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Keoke said:
tri_carb_healey said:
would sticky carb jets cause this problem? or perhaps "old gasoline"?-

--Yes it sure could particularly if there is a little water in the fuel.

Regarding the brake shoes hope you have the original riveted on lining then send them out o be relined along with the drums to be arched--Fwiw--Keoke
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Keoke,
Where would you send the brake shoes for relining and arching?
Rich
 
Rich

I suggest you give Bruce a call at Healey Surgeons he may have them on an exchange basis or be able to get them done for you. Also check you local under car parts suppliers they may have sources that have the special equipment o handle the brake shoes and drums.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Back
Top