polishing out minor scratches

[bighealeysource]

Know this could go in the restoration subject line but thought I would ask fellow Healey owners best way to get rid of very minor surface scratches in my paint. Paint is not clear coat but single stage and the scratches are very,very minor. Probably from using terry cloth towels in the past. Have a decent random orbital machine from Griot's Garage so what should I use ???
Thanks,
Mike

 

[pkmh]

Accept the following for what it's worth...

...It's been a long time for me, but because I believe I used single stage paint (acrylic laquer) on my TR-6 years ago (and did it using those disposable "DuVal" spray cannisters, no less), I will offer what I remember from the late 1980's (yes, a long time ago, but I wouldn't mind going back to doing that type of paint job again--the end result was exquisite).

From what I remember, after progressively sanding down my paint using various grades of sandpaper and then applying various grades of [hand] grit compound, I then used a mechanical buffer at the right speed applying a product known as Liquid Ebony (no idea if they still sell it or make it by that name). It left a deep, beautiful glossy finish and got rid of all fine whirls marks and fine scratches left from the compound.

I was then able to enhance as well as protect the deep finish using a 'polymer' type wax (I remember it as being a liquid and you would simply coat with a clean rag).

I'm afraid the above is somewhat generic at best. Hope it leads you in the right direction.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[dougie]

If you're aware of Griot's, then you're half way home. They have everything you need including instruction for removing the scratches you described and more,
https://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-car-care.html?gclid=CNmplraApK4CFSwaQgodn3V-RA

I know of more then one Pebble Beach winner who relays on RIchard's products.

It makes my 22 year old single stage look great.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Know this could go in the restoration subject line but thought I would ask fellow Healey owners best way to get rid of very minor surface scratches in my paint. Paint is not clear coat but single stage and the scratches are very,very minor. Probably from using terry cloth towels in the past. Have a decent random orbital machine from Griot's Garage so what should I use ???
Thanks,
Mike

Radom orbital's, the good one's are also called DA (dual action). They are a lot safter to use than a polisher, if you're not experienced enough to use a polisher.

It sounds like you have "spiderweb" light scratches. Which is really not scratches but marks made from using terry towels.

You should be able to remove them by hand using a liquid compound, then finishing up with a polish.

Using a DA (dual action) machine will be much faster and it's much safer than using a polisher, which can burn thru paint very quickly. When using a machine, it comes down to what pad you're using for cutting and polishing and what products you're using to cut and polish.

If you like Griot's Garage products, they have full line of DA's, pads and compounds/polishes.

Cheers,
Roger

 

[Bob_Spidell]

True 'Dual Action' polishers can do both circular and 'random' orbital patterns. If the polisher is described as 'random orbital' chances are it can't do circular.

The DA's have a cam that can be unlocked for random and locked for circular action.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

A while back I made a mess out of my new Mustang's clear coat (don't ask). I tried a number of polishes, scratch removers, etc. and found there isn't a heck of a lot of difference between brands. They all have a fine abrasive in suspension in a liquid or paste. For convenience, Meguiar's is available almost everywhere, and they have several products with different levels of abrasive aggressiveness. What I like is they have labels with a number and an image that looks like a thermometer that indicates the proper step in the process; i.e. start with #1, then #2 then finish with #9. #1, for instance, will remove scratches from 1200-grit sandpaper. You could probably fix your problem with #9. I believe it works either by hand or with a polisher.

At any rate, what you probably want is a 'swirl remover,' not a 'scratch remover.'

 

[BigGreen]

I go with Dougie

Take your time to view the "how-to" section
https://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

Hans

 

[PC]

Assuming this is the machine you have:

You're off to a good start.

No two finishes are exactly alike so it's impossible to tell you a one size fits all process that would guarantee success. Finishes very widely in workability so you'll need to experiment with yours to know just how it responds. But there are some general guidelines.

The Griot's buffer pictured is one of the better DA (dual action) machines on the market so with the right chemicals, pads and technique it should work well on all but the most severe defects.

Generally, you'll be using foam pads with a DA machine.

There are many choices for foam pads but for the most part you can classify them as very light cutting, light to moderation cutting or heavy cutting, often (but not always) called finishing, polishing and cutting pads respectively.

Chemicals will also have varying degrees of aggressiveness. So by mixing and matching chemicals and pads you can deal with a broad range of finishes and defects.

Be sure that whatever chemical you choose is intended for orbital and DA use. Some chemicals are designed specifically for rotary polishers (commonly used in commercial production shops) and won't give good results with a DA.

When trying a new combination, start with a test spot, like a 1ft x 1ft square area. Dial in a process that give the results you're after and then do the the rest of the car. (You'd be amazed how many people spend hours doing a whole car before finding their process doesn't work.)

The goal is to use the least aggressive product that gets the job done. So you start with something fairly light, if it works, great. If not, step up the aggressiveness until you find a combo that works.

A polishing pad and a light cutting polish are usually a good place to start.



pc

 

[bighealeysource]

Thanks y'all for the suggestions and help ! My machine is the one pictured above by PC. I will look at the available videos and have Mequiar's products so will
take my time with this. Think Roger hit the nail on the head with the "spiderweb" marks description so it's not too bad but want to get rid of them. I will post my progress !
Thanks,
Mike

 

[PC]

Which Meguiar's products do you have?

Whose pads and which ones do you have?

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey PC,
Got Meguiar's Fine cut #1 and Medium Cut #2 Glaze in bottles and the pads are the Griot's orange pretty firm pad and a Meguiar's soft buff finishing pad. Also have a small bottle of Meguiar's 2X scratch remover for use with a RO machine. Look forward to your further comments !
Thanks,
Mike

 

[BigGreen]

Anything you can't feel with your nail can be polished

As PC said, try a testspot.
Do clean the pad when you see even a light degree of contamination
Small amounts can make new swirls. Its worth the time and effort

Hans

 

[PC]

The Griot's orange pad is their polishing pad. It should be a good choice for moderate spiderweb scratch removal.

Their red pad is for finishing. They don't have a cutting pad. (As a rule, Griot's products are very mild, designed to be easy to of use and forgiving. They're targeted at enthusiasts, not reconditioning operators so your chances of messing up your finish with them is low. The tradeoff is that they can't tackle major surface correction tasks efficiently.)

Meg's #1 and #2 were originally formulated for rotary application. They've been reformulated recently for hand, orbital and DA as well. Be sure you have the new formulas before using them with the DA. They should say on the bottles. If in doubt, call Meg's 800 number for info.

Meg's ScratchX 2.0 is a very forgiving, but still very effective general purpose product. Although closer to the Medium Cut Cleaner in strength It would still probably be a good starting point because of the micro-fine abrasives it uses.


pc

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey PC,
Just happened to be on here as you posted. I tried the ScratchX2.0 with the RO from Griot's Garage but used a soft buff finishing pad from Meguiar. Did not seem to make any difference. Should I use the Griot orange pad which seems far more dense or not as soft as the foam one ? The Meg medium cut does say for rotary only as sure did not notice that when I recently bought it. The Meg fine cut does say rotary,RO,or DA use so that one is the right one for my machine.

Should I consider a polishing compound or is that way too much ? Cannot feel the scratches with your fingernail so think the spiderweb is a great description.
Thanks again,
Mike

What year is your Jensen Healey ?

 

[57_BN4]

If your orbital polisher looks anything like this then it won't be any good for cutting paint to remove scratches.

In my experience these cheap plastic 'polishers' work just as well turned off as they do turned on and are harder to get results with than hand rubbing. The problem is the motor is only 120W so they don't put the grunt in to make the compound work. Anything less than about 500W isn't powerful enough IMO. I got a 750W Makita variable speed rotary polisher and it chops into paint real well. Probably not ideal for use on metallic lacquer without a clear coat though.

Andy.

 

[PC]

It's a '74

Yes, try the ScratchX 2.0 with the orange pad. The finishing pad isn't really meant for removing scratches.

Here's an excellent demo on buffer technique:

Part 1 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher

Part 2 - How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher

Most people move across the paint too fast and don't press down hard enough when they're first learning to use a DA.

Pay close attention to Mike's comments on arm speed. Press down hard enough that you feel the motor working hard, but not quite hard enough to stop the plate's rotation.

You also need to crank the machine speed up pretty fast.I believe the speed settings on the GG are different from the Porter-Cable and the Meg's machines. Not sure what GG setting is equivalent to PC's "5." You might have to Google around to find the right speed setting.

Another possible caveat, the old, original GG machine had a much shorter orbital radius and had to run at very high speeds to accomplish much of anything. The current GG buffer has a long throw like the PC and more power. Hopefully, yours is the current version.

As for "polishing compound," it's too generic a term. Lots of companies have them and they're all very different from each other. So you'd need to have a specific one in mind. Meg's polishing compound wouldn't buy you anything over what you already have.


pc.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Another question for the pros: when and where do you use a wool pad? It seems that would be for finish, but from what I've read it's actually more aggressive than foam--true?

 

[BigGreen]

Problem is there are different types of wool :-(

https://automotivedetailing.com/assets/articles_htm/hgh_spd_buffing.htm

<span style="font-style: italic">There are several types of wool pads. The four-ply yarn cutting pad (white wool) is perhaps the most aggressive of the lot. It is not recommended on newer clear coat finishes. The blended pad, which combines both natural and synthetic fibers, is best for cutting newer clear coats. Then there is the "finishing" wool pad, which can be composed of genuine lambs wool or a combination of lambs wool and polyester (synthetic) fiber. The genuine lambs wool, although more expensive, is recommended over synthetic because it contains lanolin, which is a natural oil that helps to lubricate the buffing process and keep the pad soft. This reduces the amount of micro-scratching left behind by the pad, especially on darker paints.</span>

Hans

 

[PC]

... when and where do you use a wool pad? It seems that would be for finish, but from what I've read it's actually more aggressive than foam--true?

.
.
.
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<span style="font-size: 14pt">wetsanding:</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt">rotary buffer, wool pad:</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt">rotary buffer, foam pad:</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt">DA buffer, foam pad:</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt">working by hand:</span>

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey PC and all,
Love the analogies for sanding - had always heard that about a wool pad that you could burn your paint in an instant if not careful. Will be trying some of the suggestions tomorrow and let everyone know how it goes !
Many thanks,
Mike

PS - got time to do it now that it won't start but that's another subject for another post going on right now. Always something with these LBC's