Need help on rear bumper removal.

[2wrench]

'74 TR6 bumper. Having difficulty removing rear bumper.
Referred to: "Original Technical Publications" workshop
manuals on CD. Says: Disconnect the two number-plate
leads, see sec 86.40.86. Never found this so do not know
what they're talking about.

Then under: Remove bolts and washers securing bumper to
rear brackets, I managed to reach rear bolt with an
extension and swivel, but now the other side of the bolt
is spinning. This side of the bolt (head) is inside of the
bracket covered by the rubber portion of the bumper.

Can somebody tell me the best way to remove the rear bumper?

PS: No problem, of course, with the bolts holding the
bumper to the body sides.

 

[Brosky]

I can't remember where I got this, but I think that it was the VTR, so I apologize for not giving credit where due.

It actually covers both front and rear as simple as the front are.

And be careful of those rear side bolts/bumper ends when taking the bumper off, so that it doesn't swing up and scratch your paint on the rear quarters.

"The Haynes manual has not been updated for some of the changes in details on the last TR6's. Some folks want to remove the black, rubber bumperettes to obtain the look of the earlier cars. Others need to remove the bumpers for a paint job or rechroming.

The front bumperettes simply unbolt. The front bumper has 4 bolts securing it-- Two on the sides in the wheel wells and two behind the bumperettes -- accessible from the engine compartment. However, to remove the rear bumperettes requires removal of the entire rear bumper to get at the bolts.

Following some good advice of Kevin Thompson and Bob Lang, in preparation for a paint job, I tackled removal of the rear bumper. The bumper has two bolts, one on each fender, accessible from in the wheel well, whether the car has the bumperettes or not. With bumperettes, there are two bolts into the frame that hold the brace to the bumperettes, easily accessible under the car.

Ah! the last two bolts. These bolts secure the bumper to the body in the vicinity of the bumperettes or where they would be if there are no bumperettes. They are virtually inaccessible, cannot be seen, except perhaps with a mirror and judicious placement of light. They are inside a piece of box frame extension, accessible(??) via a slot near the fender. And, oh yes, they are totally accessible to slinging mud, water and gunk from the rear tires. If, like mine, yours have not been removed for 30+ years, be ready for an adventure.

First please note that the nut on the bolt that secures the bumper is 5/8" hex. Mine were badly rusted and a 6pt 14mm or a 12pt 9/16" socket (A socket is your only hope of getting at the nut) is too small. However, on my car a 12pt 5/8" socket seemed to big -- it slipped. I bought a 6pt 15mm deep socket for a 3/8" drive (same as a 6pt 5/8") to be sure to get over the extended bolt and the 3/8" size allowed more room in the slot.

The recommended connection is a short extension into the socket, connecting to a u joint and a long extension to get the driver outside the fender. My bolts being frozen would not allow this elaborate set up to give me any leverage. I went with a long 3/8" extension on the socket to a 3/8" drive. Even though I could only move about 2 clicks, I could get sufficient leverage to make something happen. What happened on the right side was the bolt snapped. What happened on the left was that the bolt unscrewed from the bumper as the nut was rusted on like a bolt head. (Here I was able to use the long extension when it started to move.) Please note that what is here is a threaded shaft that screws into a plate on the bumper and is held with the nut under the car.

As Kevin and Bob point out you want someone to hold the bumper while you remove these last two bolts. The bumper is heavier than it looks, and if it swings uncontrolled, you may damage your paint or body panels. Also, if the bumper sags as the nut loosens or bolt comes out, the nut angle will change making it more unlikely the socket will hold."

Good luck,

 

[2wrench]

Thanks, Paul. You gotta know this one will be a little
testy. Now, with your info and experience, I'll know it's
not just so much my ignorance, but rather a bit of a
challenge.
I think I'll reconsider another tact. This bumper looks
to be in three pieces. The outside ones that round the
rear body look like they could be removed -- and if so --
I might gain access to this bolt head hidden behind
the rubber bumpers.
In any event, it doesn't look to be an easy task.

Painted the top half of the car, just to see how it would
go, right? Wife says: Looks fine, now paint the whole thing or she doesn't want to drive in it. Top might just be good enough. Whole lot of rubbin and the like.

 

[Brosky]

When you get it off, buy two new mounting studs with a shoulder (and nuts) and you can then just install the washers and nuts much easier when you put it back together.

You could remove the three nuts from each side of the mounting plates for the right and left extensions, but I'm not sure it that will allow for easier access. I just used a socket and extensions to get up in there after soaking it down for two days with penetrating oil. Mine came right off.

 

[2wrench]

Yahooo, Paul, Got the bumper off. Thanks for the help.
I'll save the thread for reference to order the
bolts, washers or whatever you suggested.
Take care, sir, and good and safe driving.

PS: I can't stand not drivng my car. Going through
withdrawls.