My Milky Way Set Up and Process

[Basil]

Doc asked:

At first look, questioned why the need for the ball head. Then realized it's the only way to get the camera level, "X and Y".

And which tripod is that?

The attached picture shows all the gear I used.



Rube Goldberg would be proud!

Tripod: Sirui N-2204X Carbon Fiber. No longer made, but has been a very light, easy to carry tripod and is very sturdy. Has screw-out spikes for soft dirt areas.

iOptron Sky Guider Pro. You align this with True North (There's an app that helps you set Polaris at the right location in the reticle so as to make sure your pointed at true north (you don't actually point directly at Polaris - just very close to it) NOTE: Once the Star Tracker is polar aligned and level, the camera can be pointed anywhere in the sky and it will track the stars on long exposures.

MSM Z-Bracket. Provides for a level platform to mount the Ball Head. This is not strictly necessary except when doing panos. For single frame images, you can mount the ball head directly on the Star Guider.

Sirui K-20x Ball Head. Bought this when I bought the tripod. It's an ok Ball Head, but sometimes getting the ball tension right is a bit fiddly. If I ever replace it will probably get a Manfroto or equivalent

Pro Media Gear L-Bracket. This is an L-bracket that allows for mounting camera in Portrait mode. I really like this brand because the part of the bracket that is on the side of the camera (for portrait mounting) is moved well froward so that it doesn't block your ports on the side of the camera.

Canon R5 with Rokinon 14mm f/2.8. The Rokinon lens is relatively inexpensive and only manual focus, but it's perfect for Milkyway shots with its fairly sharp 2.8 aperture.

Vello Intervelometer. I use this for triggering the shutter without the need to touch the camera, and it allows me to set the exposure time with the Camera in Bulb mode. (Can also set it to take multiple long exposure shots if I don't have the tracker and want to stack several shorter exposures.)

Laser Pointer. This makes getting the polar alignment correct a breeze. This thing screws onto the back of the tracker scope and literally points right into the sky (must be VERY careful of aircraft!), allowing you to get an initial polar alignment. Then, looking through the scope to do the fine tuning is all your need to do.

 

[DrEntropy]

This is the stuff that separates the men from the boys. Too many times an image is seen and the viewer says: "That's nice" without a clue as to what it took to actually MAKE the image. Folks are so jaded by seeing things like geese flying alongside an ultralight, or a "critter cam" around the neck of some koala bear, it gets taken for granted it can't be THAT hard to do.

Granted, technology has made it possible for more folks to accomplish making stunning images. But it still takes a dedication and skill to do just that. We do indeed stand on the shoulders of those coming before. Whether Steichen, Eisenstadt, Adams or Weegee, it still requires a dedication to a genre going forward to digital imaging. My hat's off to anyone pursuing the craft into the future. Especially those who manage to steal meaningful instants of time.

Just musings from a former panderer in reflected light images.

 

[waltesefalcon]

And that is why you won't see much in the way of star photos from me. I have no plans to swim in the deep end of the photography pool.

 

[Basil]

I have no plans to swim in the deep end of the photography pool.

LOL! I've never heard it put quite that way! By the way, you don't need a tracker to take MW pics.

 

[DrEntropy]

And that is why you won't see much in the way of star photos from me. I have no plans to swim in the deep end of the photography pool.

Doesn't really matter which end you jump into as much as it does that there's enjoyment in it!

 

[waltesefalcon]

LOL! I've never heard it put quite that way! By the way, you don't need a tracker to take MW pics.

I don't even own a tripod yet. But one of these days I may.

 

[waltesefalcon]

Doesn't really matter which end you jump into as much as it does that there's enjoyment in it!

I do enjoy it.

 

[equiprx]

Doc asked:


The attached picture shows all the gear I used.

View attachment 91374

Rube Goldberg would be proud!

Tripod: Sirui N-2204X Carbon Fiber. No longer made, but has been a very light, easy to carry tripod and is very sturdy. Has screw-out spikes for soft dirt areas.

iOptron Sky Guider Pro. You align this with True North (There's an app that helps you set Polaris at the right location in the reticle so as to make sure your pointed at true north (you don't actually point directly at Polaris - just very close to it) NOTE: Once the Star Tracker is polar aligned and level, the camera can be pointed anywhere in the sky and it will track the stars on long exposures.

MSM Z-Bracket. Provides for a level platform to mount the Ball Head. This is not strictly necessary except when doing panos. For single frame images, you can mount the ball head directly on the Star Guider.

Sirui K-20x Ball Head. Bought this when I bought the tripod. It's an ok Ball Head, but sometimes getting the ball tension right is a bit fiddly. If I ever replace it will probably get a Manfroto or equivalent

Pro Media Gear L-Bracket. This is an L-bracket that allows for mounting camera in Portrait mode. I really like this brand because the part of the bracket that is on the side of the camera (for portrait mounting) is moved well froward so that it doesn't block your ports on the side of the camera.

Canon R5 with Rokinon 14mm f/2.8. The Rokinon lens is relatively inexpensive and only manual focus, but it's perfect for Milkyway shots with its fairly sharp 2.8 aperture.

Vello Intervelometer. I use this for triggering the shutter without the need to touch the camera, and it allows me to set the exposure time with the Camera in Bulb mode. (Can also set it to take multiple long exposure shots if I don't have the tracker and want to stack several shorter exposures.)

Laser Pointer. This makes getting the polar alignment correct a breeze. This thing screws onto the back of the tracker scope and literally points right into the sky (must be VERY careful of aircraft!), allowing you to get an initial polar alignment. Then, looking through the scope to do the fine tuning is all your need to do.

This might be a stupid question but, If the iOptron Sky Guider Pro is moving the rig why is the earthly stuff not blurry?

 

[Basil]

This might be a stupid question but, If the iOptron Sky Guider Pro is moving the rig why is the earthly stuff not blurry?

Not a stupid question. The foreground shot was taken with the tracker turned OFF and an earlier time in the evening (usually blue hour). Then, the sky shot is a 4 minute exposure with the tracker on. Then the two images are blended in Photoshop. The blurry foreground fro the tracked shot is replaced by the static shot done earlier.

 

[equiprx]

Not a stupid question. The foreground shot was taken with the tracker turned OFF and an earlier time in the evening (usually blue hour). Then, the sky shot is a 4 minute exposure with the tracker on. Then the two images are blended in Photoshop. The blurry foreground fro the tracked shot is replaced by the static shot done earlier.

OK that makes a whole lot of sense now.