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EricJNewman
Freshman Member
Offline
I was fed up with trying to make my seats slide easily. I had replaced the tracks when I replaced the floor pans, but the new pans didn't have mounting holes, and adding the holes after the fact led to problems with locating the holes right, plus the fact that the holes end up inside the front cross-member so even harder to get perfect. Ultimately, I got it all together, but very hard to slide.
So after trying a lot of variations. I decided to dump the factory tracks. Amazon has some $35-$40 universal racing seat tracks. I wondered if it's possible to leverage those. So I made it work. Here's the gist. I bought 2 flat steel bars at Lowes about 24" long x 1" wide, and 1/4" thick. Only a couple of bucks each. I drilled holes about a half inch from each end.
I bought 2 of these
I bolted these to the bottom of the seats in place of the old tracks. Two of the holes lined up almost perfectly on the seat rails, and I added a third for good measure. Reassembled with the original hardware as it fit well. I countersunk the holes so the bar would sit flat. The U-Shaped lever need some minor bending at the ends to fit perfectly between the tracks, but that was easy with a vise and just yoinking on it. It just pressure fits between the two seat rails.
I then put the seat in the car, slid the seat all the way to the rear of the tracks, and drilled holes about 1/2" in front of the cross member so I could go clean through. I drilled one hole, put in the bolt, then drilled the other front one, and bolted that in. With this in place - I got in the car, and slid the seat all the way forward. I could then see the holes at the back of the bar. and after making sure the seat was straight, drilled these as well.
I recommend doing all this WITHOUT carpet in the car, then trim your carpet to go around the new seat rails before reinstalling.
Me seats move perfectly, and effortlessly, and my wife can easily adjust to her settings, near the front, while mine is nearly all the way back. Took about 3 hours per side, so it was all done in a Saturday.
Hope someone else tries it. It really is a significant improvement.
So after trying a lot of variations. I decided to dump the factory tracks. Amazon has some $35-$40 universal racing seat tracks. I wondered if it's possible to leverage those. So I made it work. Here's the gist. I bought 2 flat steel bars at Lowes about 24" long x 1" wide, and 1/4" thick. Only a couple of bucks each. I drilled holes about a half inch from each end.
I bought 2 of these
NRG MOMO/Sparco Universal Seat Base Sliders - Fits Most Bottom Mount Seats - Part # SBR-001
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091WW6KA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1I bolted these to the bottom of the seats in place of the old tracks. Two of the holes lined up almost perfectly on the seat rails, and I added a third for good measure. Reassembled with the original hardware as it fit well. I countersunk the holes so the bar would sit flat. The U-Shaped lever need some minor bending at the ends to fit perfectly between the tracks, but that was easy with a vise and just yoinking on it. It just pressure fits between the two seat rails.
I then put the seat in the car, slid the seat all the way to the rear of the tracks, and drilled holes about 1/2" in front of the cross member so I could go clean through. I drilled one hole, put in the bolt, then drilled the other front one, and bolted that in. With this in place - I got in the car, and slid the seat all the way forward. I could then see the holes at the back of the bar. and after making sure the seat was straight, drilled these as well.
I recommend doing all this WITHOUT carpet in the car, then trim your carpet to go around the new seat rails before reinstalling.
Me seats move perfectly, and effortlessly, and my wife can easily adjust to her settings, near the front, while mine is nearly all the way back. Took about 3 hours per side, so it was all done in a Saturday.
Hope someone else tries it. It really is a significant improvement.
