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TR2/3/3A Installing Brake Switch TR3?

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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Is it necessary to bleed the brake system to swap in a new brake switch? You'd think if done quickly you woudn't lose an appreciable amount of fluid and it's not likely air would enter the system? Anyone done this? Also in an unrelated topic: what is the best steering box oil to use?....manual says Castrol Hypoy but no grade or number for modern oils?
 
If you do the swap promptly, most likely you won't need to bleed afterwards. The switch is well below the level in the reservoir, so the fluid draining out while you insert the new switch will displace any air.

I use Valvoline full synthetic (GL5) gear oil in my steering box. Works well for me, but I've not tried doing any comparisons so I couldn't say it was "best".
 
Karl Just as Randall said...changed the brake switch on my 60 3A quickly...and did not have have to beeed the system at all. Gil NoCal
 
My steering box leaked...Not bad...just enough to be annoying. Tightened everything down...Aviation Permatex..Finally I drained & filled it with STP
 
If you or some PO tightened the adjustable peg on the fromt cover of your steering gearbox, he might have forced the cover into a curve or a warp. If the cover is no longer flat, it will leak. If you remove the cover and it's not flat, you can try to flatten it in your bench vice and then lap the mating face (inside of the cover) really flat with a piece of emery cloth or sandpaper on a piece if thick flat glass.
 
Does the steering box require a hypoid oil? If so, would STP meet this requirement? If you're wanting something thicker to reduce leakage perhaps the Penrite steering box lube (very very thick) from Moss is a better choice.
 
Book calls for EP oil; but I would guess that any oil is better than none at all.

I saw a big reduction in steering effort when I switched to the synthetic, but several other things changed at the same time, so I'm not sure which of them helped.
 
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