I fear the worst

[Nunyas]

I fear the worst case scenario that is. Over the weekend, I noticed that shifting the B has become somewhat difficult while the engine is cold. Today, while out getting my lunch I noticed the clutch has started to intermittantly squawking when I push the pedal in. Not everytime, but sometimes it squawks when I push it in. I'm a feared this may mean that I'm going to need a new clutch. I've never changed a clutch before, and I certianly don't have a place where I can do this type of work. From reading the forum over the past year or two I've come to the understanding that it's much much easier to pull the entire engine and transmission as a single unit out of the car to do this sort of work. Given that I don't have a cherry picker and no place to put these things while I work on it, I fear what it'll cost to have the clutch replaced at a shop.

In hopes of catching this and turning it into a non-problem, is there anything I can check or adjust in the clutch system? I'll add that I've noticed that the "friction point" of the clutch pedal travel has moved to to a couple of inches from the floor.

Tips, hints, and suggestions?

Thanks yet again

 

[jlaird]

Sounds more like a throw out bearing.

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Clutch pedal pivot? (I know too obvious...Right?)

 

[Stewart]

You can rent a cherry picker very cheaply as long as you have a way to tow it to where your going to work but if you don't have a place your going to be somewhat out of luck.

Make sure if you do end up pulling the engine or taking it to a shop to order new motor mounts and tranny mounts. You also may want to change any leaking gaskets on the engine and give the engine bay and engine a good scrub while its out.

I wish you posted this Saturday as I could have given you a set of tranny mounts. Still might be able to if I can figure out a good way to describe them to my dad who would be lucky to figure out the difference between a carb and a tranny mount.

 

[A. Claffie]

[ QUOTE ]
Make sure if you do end up pulling the engine or taking it to a shop to order new motor mounts and tranny mounts. You also may want to change any leaking gaskets on the engine and give the engine bay and engine a good scrub while its out.

[/ QUOTE ]

Isn't this how most full restorations start?

 

[kennypinkerton]

How much fluid is in the reservior? Do you top it up alot? You might just need a new hose and maybe a slave cylinder and rebleed the system.

Check that bolt that is the pedal hinge-point too... Mine comes loose all the time. Then the pedal goes nearly to the firewall before the clutch disengages (and sometimes doesn't all the way).

 

[DrEntropy]

Clutch pivot bolt is a prime candidate for producing a "groan" on pedal depression. It's a good place to start. Another thing to do before condemning the clutch is to check the travel of the fork at the slave pushrod: Two person job, and a good ruler or a scale. Put the front-end in the air far enuff to get yourself under there (and SAFELY!) to measure the full depression point. Have peep #2 depress and hold the clutch down, you determine how far it is from "something else." All you need do is reference WHERE the fork stops on ONE depression for now. Next have peep #2 depress/release/depress the pedal three or four times, and on last depression "hold it" down again and see if the rod/fork end has gone any further forward than on the first depression. This will tell you if there's air in the system. That points to a leak or seals in the hydraulics. It shouldn't "build up" with a few pumps, rather go to the same point each depression ordinarily.

Pull the rubber boot away from the fork arm and try to get a *BIT* of some lube-in-a-can (5-56, 2-26 CRC) on the pivot point while you're under there. Try NOT to over-do the lube, it's called a "friction clutch" on purpose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

The other thing I've seen is a BADLY worn pivot pin, some have looked like little crankshafts, they were so far worn. Check the corresponding bushing in the fork, too. A "wiggle test" is about your limit. Shouldn't be a lot of play in it on the pin... Still a "yank the unit" job but at least you'll be aware what to look at if it comes to the ugly answer.

 

[DrEntropy]

Oh... and check under the pedal box cover for the bolt Kenny mentions and look at the clevis pin securing the pedal end to the master cylinder rod for "ovality" too.

 

[Nunyas]

thanks guys, I'll be sure to check that pivot pin as soon I possibly can. That almost sounds too good to be true, but if it turns out to be the problem I'll be one happy camper. Just prior (within the past 2 weeks; change in friction point didn't register until I had difficulties getting into 2nd and 3rd) to this issue popped up the friction point seemed to be much higher; towards the resting position of the pedal.

The slave cylinder and flex line are relatively new. I installed them on the car when I bought it (had to in order to drive it), and haven't given me any trouble since installing them. I'll check them anyways just in case; better safe than sorry and all that.

My previous vehicle had a cable actuated clutch so adjusting it was really easy and 'intuitive'... I just didn't know where I should start looking on a hydraulic clutch.

thanks again guys!

 

[kennypinkerton]

If you needed to replace the clutch slave and hose, did you change the master cylinder too? It might be going south and you're hearing fluid slipping past the piston in it. Another possibility to think about. When I did mine, I bought a kit from VB with all the bits including the pivot pins, MC, slave, hose and a couple other bits (hose clamp-bolts, etc).

 

[IanF]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure if you do end up pulling the engine or taking it to a shop to order new motor mounts and tranny mounts. You also may want to change any leaking gaskets on the engine and give the engine bay and engine a good scrub while its out.

[/ QUOTE ]

Isn't this how most full restorations start?

[/ QUOTE ]

Umm... yep. Ask me how an auto -> manual conversion in an old Volvo turns into complete disassembly and painting of the engine bay...

https://www.millpondminis.com/volvo_1800es.htm

(P.S. you guys here in the MG forum are fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif )

 

[Nunyas]

we do aim to please...




erm... I'm not sure that came out quite right... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Steve_S]

Sign above a toilet: "We aim to please. You aim too, please."

 

[647F]

[ QUOTE ]
Sounds more like a throw out bearing.

[/ QUOTE ] i hate those things...did i mention that before? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Bruce74B]

[ QUOTE ]
Sign above a toilet: "We aim to please. You aim too, please."

[/ QUOTE ]

The one in my camp's outhouse say "My aim is to keep this bathroom clean...your aim will help!" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Nunyas]

figured I'd post an update to this lil thread. Albeit, it may be a little late, but at least it should be posted to the internet for all to see and learn from. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

As I've mentioned before, I thought the clutch slave cylinder and clutch flex line to be in good condition. I acquired them from the B-hive two years ago, when I purchased my car so I could drive it to its new home. Certainly, 2 years of reliable and trouble free use should hold some meaning to the reliability of the parts I acquired. So, when I started looking at the bits and pieces that everyone so graciously suggested that I check, I found that the Clutch fluid reservior was nearly empty if not completely. When I opend the reservoir cap I could see no fluid inside. Initially, I thought it might be because of the sharp angle I had to look at it from to see into it. A quick check of the level by sticking my pinkie finger as far into the reservoir as it would reach verified there was nothing there. A short walk to the corner gas station and a bottle of brake fluid later, the clutch is working 100% as expected again.

Though, there are some barely audible intermittent chirpping sounds coming from the clutch when I press it in still. I think it'll at the very least give me more time to decide what to do about it.

On a side note, I feel compelled to ask, is this considered acceptable? Of course, I'm referring to the gradual loss (over two years in my case) of fluid from the clutch system.

I'll continue to monitor it incase there's some other underlying problem that I've yet to discover.

 

[Deleted member 3577]

You could top it off once a year or practice your, no clutch gear changes, for the future. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

 

[R6MGS]

Might be wise to bleed the system now...If it ran that low it could have sucked in some air.

 

[jlaird]

Ahh, check all fluids when you do oil changes or every 6 months. Both in and out of winter storage as well if you do.