Gears are grinding

[RCarnes]

Hello everyone,
I just joined the forum. I am the proud owner of a 76 midget. I've had the car for just over a year. I love it.

As of right now I'm having a little bit of a problem and I knew this was the place to come for advice and to make a few friends along the way.

I drove the car all last summer. Towards the end of summer the slave cylinder was in need of being rebuilt or replaced. I stored the car all winter as we tend to get snow here and didn't want it out on ice/salt. Last weekend I got it back out and replaced the slave cylinder. I drove it around the block a few times. It drove great. I went out of town for a few days. I couldn't wait to get back to take it out for a spin. It started up fine, but is grinding quite bad when i try to put it in any gear. I'm wondering what it could be. The cylinder was bled. I'm wondering if I need to do this again or if it could be something else.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rachel

 

[RonMacPherson]

To try to help isolate the concern. Does the shift lever move smoothly and evenly through the gears when you have it shut off? As if you're pretend driving. Is the transmission oil level full? Have you checked it recently. Is the slave cylinder mounted correctly?

I know on 6's that you can mount it with the tabs on the bellhousing away from the transmission and will not get full extension, so gear grinding. dunno about your car, just offering some generalities.

When you push in on the clutch pedal is the clutch slave rod travelling full length, will need someone to crawl under the car(or raise it in the air) to check while someon is pushing in the clutch pedal.

Just some basic beginning troubleshooting tips.

 

[aeronca65t]

It's probably not bled fully.
My 1500 seems to be a bit of a task to bleed (as compared to other Spridgets I own).

I have found that you should bleed it at the slave cylinder....but then bleed it at the clutch master cylinder afterwards. There is no real bleeder screw at the clutch master cylinder, so the way to do it is to:

1.~~have someone pump the clutch up and down about 10 times and then hold it down.

2.~~loosen the hydraulic line that goes into the clutch master cylinder (and fluid will squirt out).

3.~~Tighten line, have your helper release the pedal and repeat #1 (do this process 3 or 4 times and it should get all the air out)

This is a messy job since brake fluid will squirt all over the place when you loosen the line. The fluid can ruin paint, so put some towels or old newspapers around the master cylinder when doing this.

...also, check the hole at the top of the clutch pedal. There is a pin (called the "clevis pin") that goes in this hole that connects the pedal to the clutch master cylinder. If the hole is even just a *little* worn or oval-shaped, it will "waste" some the motion of your foot and the clutch may not be fully disengaged. In one of my cars, I welded the hole closed and re-drilled it. Check to see that the clevis pin isn't worn too.

There are other things that can cause your problem, but these are the easiest to rectify.

G'luck!

 

[RCarnes]

Thanks for the replies. It is shifting fine with the car off. I will try bleeding it at the clutch and check the clevis pin. Hopefully this will work.

Rachel

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Are you anywhere near St. Louis?

 

[H82WRK]

Hi Rachel, my name is Rachael as well and I am also from IL. Interesting.

Keep us updated. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it is just a bleeding issue. I know I had to bleed and bleed my little car to get it moving right.

 

[RCarnes]

I'm in Southern Illinois. About 3 hours from St. Louis, Trevor.

Very interesting Rachael!

I'm looking forward to Thursday (my day off) so I can try to get it running right.....hopefully!

 

[Trevor Jessie]

3 Hrs... OK, well that is not really close. I was asking because they have a good MG club there.