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Frame replace with Jule or fix

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R

RestoreThemAll

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I have a '63 3000 mk11 BJ8 with a rusty frame. Mostly holes in the top of the frame under the seat area. It also has the standard chassis and body rust, maybe worse than most. I'm trying to decide the right thing to do; 1) purchase a Jule after market tube frame or 2)repair the original. Would there be a difference the value of the car after it's restored? What do the folks of the British car forum think about Jule vs repair?
 
Repairing the frame/underbody of a rusted Healey can be a very complex, time consuming job. It requires much metal cutting, new panels, fitting while keeping proper alignment, welding, & finishing. If you have the patience, metal working skills & knowledge, & equipment, you can do it. If you need to buy all of the pieces & have a shop fit everything, in my opinion, you will come out with a better product & likely cheaper, to replace the whole works. To my knowledge, I have never heard a complaint about their frames. See the attached Jule ad. Click above on "Attachment"
https://www.jule-enterprises.com/
D
 

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RSTA, If the Jule frame is within your budget go for it.They are much stronger than the original frame and can cut a lot of time out of a restoration.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

I have a Jule frame on my car and I really like it. As stated it is stronger than than the original and helps eliminate scuttle shake.

As for originality, well it will depend on who buys your car. If you're not going concours, you wont care, if you sell it, it might put some people off but for most people it wont be an issue

cheers
 
Thanks for the input guys.
I'll probably go with the Jule package. I've had the car for over 30 years. If I don't get a jump start I may never get it restored.

Correction: My car is a BJ7 not 8. That was a typo.
 
BJ 7 cars are the best ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I replaced my BN7 frame with a Kilmartin frame. They sell all of the components, and will weld together the main structure as an option. I have been very impressed with how well everything has fit and how exactly every detail matches the original frame. It did take about 6 months to get, however. I also bought many chassis sheet metal parts as they were either rusty, or not worth trying to salvage off the old chassis. I got the frame and chassis parts in February, 2003, and I should have a running chassis in the next few weeks. Hope it drives as good as it looks (the chassis). Unfortunately, I still have all of the body work to do, so it will still be a while...

Good Luck
Paul
 
Dave, isn't that Kilmartin in oz not Jule in CA?---Keoke
 
Paul, just out of curiosity, didn't Kilmartin have to ship from Australia the completed welded chassis? How much did that cost?
How about adding some pictures?
 
The shipping from Australia to California was $550. The shipping from California to Minnesota was $680! I guess I should have checked out the options in the U.S. better.

I will try and get some pictures up soon.

Paul
 
For what it's worth, I'm in the process of doing repairs on my BJ7 frame. The outriggers and floor pans, trunk boxes and pan are all being replaced. The main frame has some areas that are either rusted-through or this as well. In those areas I am cutting oversized windows (back to good material) and then welding in new sections. If you do a good penetrating weld you can then grind the weld fluch for a pretty good cosmetic result.

I must say it's rewarding (in an industrial art fashion) to be able to actually do it! I'm sure it's not for everyone, but it sure beats the cost of a new frame.
 
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