TR2/3/3A Float lever issue on SU type H carbs

[Talon]

In the float chambers of my two carbs, the lever situations are different. In the forward one, the brass pin that retains the forked float lever slides loosely and will easily slip completely out either side when the lid is off the float chamber. Not a huge deal as the lever seems to work smoothly, but I gather from YouTube clips that the pin is supposed to seat firmly in one of the holes. So the holes are too wide or the pin is too narrow.

But... in the rear one, the pin seats firmly in either hole but the lever gets stuck before it moves up very far. I don't know how much play the lever should have, but I should think it doesn't need much at all because once the gas level is a smidge over the 7/16" setting point, the lever has done its job, right?

So, do I just ignore these little things and go about the synchronizing process? I am tempted to do so, but I'm uneasy because the float chambers are identical and should work in an identical way - one would think.

And if the answer is to get the forward pin to seat, I have no idea how to do it without either (1) buying a new float chamber since the holes for the pin are part of the cast chamber body and/or a new pin to see if I can get a combination that works, or (2) do some primitive fix with duct tape that is sure to come back and haunt me sometime. (Just kidding about the tape, but you know what I mean.)

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

 

[TR3driver]

I wouldn't sorry about the front one. Eventually the lid will need to be repaired or replaced, but not for a lot of years.

But the rear lever needs to move freely through its entire range. You don't want any binding at all. Should be a clean, positive stop as it drops, then the valve should stop it rising before it can bind. You may need to carefully bend the ears a bit, so it can move freely.