• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

E Type Jacking point

Share this page

J

Jeff

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi Folks,

Got the 68 OTS running yesterday. The clutch slave cylinder spring was not strong enough to keep the cup expanded. Put a stronger spring in I bought at an Ace hardware. Seems to be working fine.

Someone please tell me a convient jacking point to lift both front tires off the ground with a floor jack is?

Thanks and happy new year to all.
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jeff:
Hi Folks,

Got the 68 OTS running yesterday. The clutch slave cylinder spring was not strong enough to keep the cup expanded. Put a stronger spring in I bought at an Ace hardware. Seems to be working fine.

Someone please tell me a convient jacking point to lift both front tires off the ground with a floor jack is?

Thanks and happy new year to all.<hr></blockquote>

I would not attempt to jack BOTH front wheels off the ground myself, but I have heard of it being done by by placing a piece of hardwood, cut to fit the recess, in the bottom of the picture
frame. (it can be set there permanently with tie-wraps if you like). The wood will keep the flanges or lips of the picture fame from getting bent by the jack. Obvioulsy, you will need a very low jack to clear the bonnet in front.

Jack stands can be placed under the lower wishbone mounts.

That being said, if all you need to to is get the car high enough to get under it and both wheels don't actually have to be free to rotate, I would highly recommend you buy a set of "Rhino Ramps" at Pep Boys or Auto Zone. They are heavy-duty plastic ramps that are low-profile so as to allow low-riding cars (like our Jags) to clear them as you drive up on them.

Basil
 
The E type manuals and other documentation tell you that a jack may be placed on either side under the rocker panel about where the firewall is. I do not like or trust this point and think it is dicey. Better to use the floor jack under the lower A frames and install jack stands before you get undeneath to do work. On a hydraulic lift I place the lift supports under the Jaguar specified area with plenty of wood for a buffer and it seems to work OK. This still bothers me if I suspect that the E Type might have any rust on the structure. Hope this helps you decide what is best for your Jag.
Best regards, Jack Farrington
 
As a junior member to a senior member, what is an LBC?
 
Hi,

Check your shop manual page B-66 where it discusses the removal of the torsion bar reaction plate. The 3rd paragraph down describes the method of lifting the front of the car using a hard wood (oak) jacking block 16" long x 1 1/8" x1". There is an illustration on page J11 that shows it fitted into the cross channel and where to place the jack stands after the front end is raised.

I have an oak beam permanently held up in the channel with plastic self locking straps. I cheated and made mine a 1/4" deeper than they call for.

I place a hydraulic jack pad with a piece of
2x4 about 10 inches long under this wood beam
addition and lift the front of the car.

Once in the air I put a jack stand under the front journal of the wish bone as shown on page J11.

Dave Smith
zephyr27@gte.net
 
The piece of wood in the channel of the "picture frame" will work, but I prefer to lift at the suspension points & use a jack stand when the tyres are removed. I just did a head R&R and had jackstands on all 4 wheel splines and everything worked just fine. I've also had built, a drive up ramp that puts KoolKat 32" in the air, all 4 tyres at the same time. Great setup, but O'so heavy to move around.
Mike in Phoenix w/ KoolKat '68 OTS (Car of the Month)
 
Back
Top