Door adjustment after installation of new door panel?

[Chet Zerlin]

Hi all,

After installing new door panels in my BN6 I'm finding that the doors don't close fully. Apparently the new panels are slightly thicker than the old ones and the hangup seems to be at the front lower edge. Since it prevents the front lower edge from closing fully that pushes the entire door out - and due to the angle it gets worse the further toward the rear.
Is there a recommended method of adjusting this? I noticed that my old door panels had developed indentations that I'm thinking helped everything align properly - do I simply keep the doors shut and hope similar indentations solve the issue? Is there a possibility of being able to "bend" the front bottom edge of the opening (in the car not the door) to allow a greater separation between the door panel and the area it presses against when closed?

Ideas and suggestions greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Chet

 

[British_Recovery]

What kind of door seal do you have? Aftermarket issues are often too thick.

 

[Chet Zerlin]

It's the seal that was on the car when I bought it. Red "fuzzy" stuff with rubber attached that clips onto the entire door opening surround (car side). I tried removing it and only got a very slight improvement.

 

[RAC68]

Hi All.

Doors and other outer panels must be adjusted to line up and may require using shims at strategic locations. I have found that when installing panels or doors, I need to loosen the front fender along with inserting shims under the door hinges to get good placement and alingment of both. Once the front fender and door are aligned with proper even spaceing between, I may also have to adjust the rear fender to align properly with the back end of the door.

When mounting the hinges/door you can move the door in and out to suit. Adjusting position with shims between the hinge and jam will allow you to alter its angle from front to back and, by having different shim thickness between hinges, will allow for the latch end to be twisted as well as adjust the angle from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that the fender/door crease is the primary visual alignment key and, if not on point, will make the Healey's panels look out of line. However, since the fender bead provides a visual block, alignment of shroud to fender is not as important or its mismatch as noticeable.

I would say that putting new doors on your Healey should be a piece of cake but, replacing a panel or door is a big pain and can be more of a trial and error process then you would expect. Remember, modern car Sheetmetal replacements are much more consistent and accurate then our Healey panels and many perfectly aligned Healey bodies are more the product of applied body putty then accurate metal stampings.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[dancrim]

A few pictures would be of help. I did a lot of body work in that area, however without
photos it's hard to get an idea.

 

[Chet Zerlin]

Thanks everyone for your replies however I may not have been clear enough in my original post. Sorry!
The door panels I'm referring to are the vinyl covered panels that mount to the inside of the door and not any metal panels for the door itself. Basically when those vinyl covered panels are removed from the door the doors fit fine and the lock solidly engages - all gaps are ok and the fender/door crease is perfect. But when I put the vinyl panels back onto the doors there is not a sufficient gap between the doors and the inside (shut face?) with the result that the door is pushed out and prevented from closing flush. It seems like the major offender is the front bottom area....which leads me to hope there is some way to push that area in to create the gap needed.

Hope this is clearer!
Thanks!
Chet

 

[RAC68]

Hi Chet,

Sorry to have misunderstood. As I have experienced a similar issue when fitting the new panels I created using tempered masonite for its backing. I gain some of the space needed to compensate for the added thickness by moving the weatherstripping flange further into the car. However, this move only helped but did not provide all of the needed space. I tried to find some additional space from the aluminum surround panels but to no avail. I finally, and I am sorry to say this, secured the small additional space needed from adjusting the door.

Although you have indicated not having sufficient space when eliminating the weather stripping, I would not have expect you took the drastic move of bending the weather strip flange or slightly deforming the upper portion of the sill under the aluminum facia. I also would not expect that the added space you need is anywhere near that which I needed.

Good luck Chet,
Ray(64BJ8P1)​

 

[Chet Zerlin]

Hi Ray,

Thanks for your response! If you have indeed undertaken the "drastic move of bending the weather strip flange" I would very much like to learn how you did it and how much movement/added space you gained as that (due to current frustration) is exactly what I'm intending to try.

Thanks!
Chet

 

[RAC68]

Hi Chet,

As I am not as familiar but believe your BN6 it somewhat similar to my BJ8 Phase 1 in its general attachment to the door, I can only describe what I did to gain the additional space needed when recreating my panels. After thinking about what you had previously stated (you gained no benefit from totally removing your weather stripping), I am now thinking that your issue is from the door panel coming in contact with the aluminum sill below the weather stripping. Since your new panels have compressible materials within (foam, etc.) that are still firm and uncompressed, the door standoff is likely from the additional panel space requirement as it meets the flat aluminum sill cover below the weather strip and moving the weather stripping further into the cabin may not do much of anything in resolving your issue.

As mentioned in my last post, I created new panels using thicker non-deforming tempered Masonite backing which was 2x the thickness of the original cardboard-like material. Fitting these panels with new internal compressibles required additional space for the weather stripping as well as needed some space from the mentioned sill area and, as a result, found it necessary to reposition the door (which also required the adjustment of front and rear fender panels to the door). I can appreciate your not wanting to go through this much effort and I would consider first addressing the issue through a few hot Florida months of door slamming to help deform the panel's compressibles to gain the fit. You can check my premise by removing the aluminum sill cover and seeing if the door closes easier and fully. If it does close then you know what is causing the door's to standoff. If not, you can always take a more drastic approach and consider repositioning the door.

Chet, your frustration is understandable as I expect you saw the replacement of door panels as an casual walk on the beach. However, I believe our Healeys are most loved because they have a way of keeping our interest and attention by providing us with stories of how we overcame the challenges they posed with analytics and ingenuity.

Enjoy your Healey,
Ray(64BJ8P1) challenged since new

 

[Chet Zerlin]

Hi Ray,

I removed the aluminum sill cover and you are correct that with that piece removed the door fit is ok. I'll try the Florida sunshine (heat) solution along perhaps with a slight door adjustment. Looking at my old vinyl panels there are significant deflections in them that match the door opening surround so that does seem to be the right way to go. You are also correct that restoring a Healey is the perfect vehicle to learn perseverance, patience, analytics and ingenuity!

Should have bought one when I was in my 20's...might have saved me from my younger self!

Chet