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cracked wishbone!

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J

Joelb

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Has anyone ever seen this before? 79 Midget 86,000 miles. Could this be as simple as welding it? Both pictures are from the right side, first is looking forward, second is looking aft.
 

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Joel, a not uncommon failure. Not normal, but not overly rare, either.
Welding isn't an option. Pitch it and replace it.
Jeff
 
Why are there not good aftermarket tubular lower a-arms to replace the pressed steel units?

BTW, I have a cracked one fram a '79 parts car as well.
 
would welding it weaken the rest of it? Guess I'm now shopping for a used wishbone! I wonder what else I'm gonna find as I go through this thing!
 
Welding would not only weaken it, but the alignment of the fulcrum pin hole is precise. Just get another one, and save yourself the worry. Think of the stresses put on that, and what would happen if it fails at speed.
Jeff
 
Sound enough logic for me. Guess I'd better do that before I replace my bushings.
 
Eric Jones does a real nice job rebuilding them. Lemme dig up his number for you. He would probably see you one out-right for a lot less than new.
 
I got new ones from Moss. Yep expenisve but are Heritage items and even powder coated. That's my you know what hanging out there and by gosh I want good parts.

Would and have used used ones but check very very carefully.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I got new ones from Moss. Yep expenisve but are Heritage items and even powder coated. [/QUOTE]

Jack - I was also impressed with their quality when they arrived here before I forwarded them!
 
More than impressed Tony. They were better than the orginal I am sure.

Some of the racer folks say never use used ones, go for new. But then I do understand that that is not always an option. The guy that rebuilds em should be able to give some excellent advise I am sure.
 
At least one of mine is welded, was like that when I got the car. Hmm, front rebuild starts next week. Let's see, VictoriaBritish.com... OW! $200 USD a side?!? That's insane. Wait, why can't I weld them up?
 
I just talked to Eric Jones, his number is a few threads up, and he is sending me a rebuilt one. I'm not sure of the price yet, but it will be well under $200.

What I have gathered talking to welders is that it has to be heated in a special oven, then welded, then back in the oven for a controlled cool down.
Without the controlled heat and cool it would crack.

As I understand it.
 
It really depends on what the Steel Alloy is, weather it needs to be heat treated or not. Bieng a suspension part I suspect it is {or at least should be} a hardened part. In that case it deffinately would need to be heat treated after welding. More specificaly it would need to be welded with the proper Alloy filler material. I suspcet it would be much more cost effective to purchase a new, or carefully inspected used one. In purchasing a used one, {for me} it would need to be xrayed or ultra sounded to ensure that NO stress risers exist. {stress risers = "Small invisible to the eye imprefections" are what cause cracking during the stress of normal use.} Having said all of that, even new parts can have stress risers and the results of a stress riser {the crack} may not show itself for years.
Tough desicion! but if you have the $ go for new!
 
Less inportant than the alloy of steel is the "heat affected zone"(HAZ) around the weld which has random "grain direction" to the material and allows cracks to spread very easily. The HAZ is brittle and cracks love brittle, an oven stress relief (very precise operation) will help tremendously.
With this in mind I am considering brazing a folded-over steel doubler over my cracks to see how they hold up.
Bill
 
i had the same (almost identical) cracking on my 67. noticed it once all the crud was removed. i also asked about welding and was told to pitch it and replace. the suspension in one part of this car not to be played with. better $200 now and some piece of mind later
 
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