College student dilemma

[Salyers890]

Alright fellas, here we go - my first post here and i'm glad to find the forum. i've learned so much reading the past 8 pages of posts. SOOOOOO. . . I own a 76 Midge, ~45000 on the car and drivetrain. I got the car after it sat for 12 years with a tarp (ripped) over it. Then it sat in the parent's garage for 2 years. Finally when i started work on it i got the engine running and did a chrome wire wheel conversion (found from early 70's model in junk yard that i got for free) although being a total newbie to the automotive world at 18, i feel i did a decent job including the paint. BUT - now i'm ready for the big leagues, i want to really restore a car that turns heads that i'm proud to show off - a chrome bumper midget.
My car would need a new passenger floorpan (screwed a fabricated pan in), lowered springs, new backplates behind the rear brakes (broke the adjustment screws), and i'd have to put the chrome bumpers on. . . .after that - a paint job and i'm done. OR, i could sell mine - and buy a chrome bumper MG. The dilemma arises because i fell into a sweet deal - 200 bucks for a rebuilt engine/trans with new clutch/cover/throughout bearing/etc - new u-joints on driveshaft - new hood - new carpet (installed) - various new odds and ends - rebuilt kingpins - new starter - rebuilt steering rack. WOW. if i am going to keep my car i'd want to use the engine trans new. sooooooo with knowing that - questions

1. would it be worth it to convert a RB midge to chrome with the 1275 and all?

2. how hard is it to swap the 1500 for the 1275?

3. is this too long of a post for anyone to read all the way through or should i keep them shorter?

also, if you can offer any advice on the problems i have - let me know please
Thanks in advance guys, i really appreciate the help
Mike

 

[screenprinter]

MIke,

From what I've read in posts here swapping a 1275 for the 1500 shouldn't be much of a problem - They are great little engines and ridiculously overbuilt - Sounds like you came acroos a good deal for 2 bills - What kind of shape is the body in?

If you cruise the threads from the past few months or run a search for floorpans you'll find that the floorpans in the Spridgets are a structural component and as such the fabricated floorpan installed with screws may not be the best idea - Fabricated is okay but I think it definitely should be welded in to afford as much strength as possible.

Anyway, if the other car is in decent shape why not keep em' both, fix em' - double you pleasure, double your fun

Lastly, there are a few threads about converting RB cars to Chrome bumpers - the general consensus is that it is indeed woth it - Aesthetically if nothing else - I myself prefer chrome bumpers over rubber bumpers - And the conversion is not that difficult ( From what I've seen) - Moss offered a step by step article some time ago - Somebody in the forum can probably point you to where it can be found

And, don't worry, your post was a whole lot shorter than a lot of mine - The people here aren't afraid to read -

Welcome to the forum

Bob M.

 

[Steve]

I can echo what Bob has posted.......and stress the importance of welding that floorpan in. You don't want to compromise the structural integrity of a car that is light and vulnerable to begin with.

 

[Salyers890]

Thanks guys - i was beginning to look at my car and get a little scared of the problems that could/would arise. As long as you experienced fellows think it shouldn't be that big of a deal, i'm going to go for it.
I've had a total of 3 MG's two of which were rustbuckets baught for <500 and i stripped to the frame and ditched the frame. This is where i learned the most - what everything is, where it goes, how it comes off, where the rust starts. My car's body is in good condition, only rust being in the common door swing side panel skin (name?), bottom of a door (replacing anyway with a spare that i have), back of the trunk, and passenger floorpan (hole, not gone but very weak) one of the rustbuckets i picked up had stainless pans made and bolted in where the rear shocks bolt in, then just resting in the front. . . . . i saved both of them, would it be worth it to weld it in over the rusted panel,or should i cut/grind therusty parts, then paint it, then have it welded (if so, how much do you think that would cost?)

also, do the bumper mounts offer any structural support for the car on the RB model?

I think finding this site is the best thing i've done in a while. . . i'm used to taking something apart, putting it back together, seeing how i screwed it up, then taking it apart and putting it back together right. . . . . that's learning lol

let me know what you think

 

[screenprinter]

The "door swing panel" I believe is the "A-Post" - the area about 4" wide where the door hinges reside?
If you have rust bubbles poke around a little - I think you'll find that the space behind the rust is filled with moist dirt and that the bottom hinge is partially eaten away - This may rate some attention.

When fixing rust NEVER weld a repair panel over old rusty stuff - you're compounding the problem as "Rust Never Sleeps" - Cut all the rust away back to sound metal, then grind any surface rust away from bothe surfaces of the sound metal and either Primer immediately or treat with a rust conversion chemical ( Available under many trade names at most auto parts stores - ask for "Rust converter") And then proceed to fit and weld your replacement. Stainless steel has many nice qualities, however i find Ease of workability is not one of them.

Factory like aftermarket replacement panels are relatively cheap, easy to obtain and fit most LBC's like a glove, eliminating a lot of frustration. If you're not in the loop for the big two suppliers try these links:

Victoria Bristish in Lenexa Kansas

www.victoriabritish.com

Moss Moters in California with dealers all over the US

www.mossmotors.com

I recently bought floorpan replacements from Victoria Bristish and they ran me about $125.00 each plus shipping, and they were excellent.

As far as I know the bumper mounts don't add any structural reinforcement - If they do a lot of guys are slicing them off with abandon to do the bumper swap - In my car's case ( 67 Sprite) the bumper mounts in front bolt to the sub-frame rails and the rear bolts to the boot floor reinforced area - So I don't think it adds anything, rather depends on the structural soundness. Rubber Bumper guys out there slap me if I just said something stupid!!

Look at the past threads in the SPRIDGET forum - I started a thread called "FLOORPANS" about 2 months ago and received a lot of good advice from several members - Check it out - It'll tell you about everything you need to know about this particular operation.

Bob M.

 

[Salyers890]

thanks for the info Bob, appreciate the advice. The RB mounts look like big frame beams almost protruding from the grille areal of the front valance, and must be chopped in order to fit a grille. I doubt it has any structural importance, but doesn't hurt to ask.
My "A" post skin got rusted because the door check strap busted and the door dented it (before i had it). it was never painted over and rusted on the surface. I sanded the rust off, primered and painted it after a little bondo (i hate using that stuff though). All the rust i saw has been ground off (minus the floorpan in the passenger side. I just slapped the sheet metal on top and screwed it into the trans tunnel, side rocker inside panel, back panel and front reinforcement beam. . . .seems i need to pull it off and get that rust out of there. . . . i would like to replace the pan eventually, but the stainless steel pans i have are already cut and drilled to be attached in the rear. Will I be ok if i clean up that rust and paint the original pan (what's left of it) and have the stainless welded in around the parimeter?

Also, anyone got any tips on getting the rear brake shoe adjustment screw out if the back broke off using the specialized tool? i tried channel locks, and now am thinking of using a pipe wrench. . . . but i do think it will break off more. Must it be drilled out, and if so isn't that high tempered steel? what would you suggest?

thanks in advance guys

Mike