General Tech Clutch Slave Adjustment

[KVH]

While I’m working on my brakes, I figure I better address a problem I appear to be having with my clutch.

The point of engagement and disengagement is too close to the floor. I bled the clutch slave cylinder, but feel like I better do it again, this time with a helper.

Does my problem sound more like air in the system, or is it more likely the slave adjustment I have made?

The shop Manuel says to unscrew the push rod so that all slack has been taken up between the rod and the internal cylinder. I have done that, and then I then adjusted by backing off .1 inches, all to spec.

However, this does not seem to resolve my problem. So, I have a question.

When the Manuel says to take up all the slack, do they mean that I should keep turning that push rod not only until all slack is taken up “gently” finger tight, but that I should continue to muscle it as hard as possible, without tools, of course, so that the cylinder is pushed all the way back before I make the .1 inch adjustment?

For some reason, and with my slave cylinder, there is a point when the push rod is fairly tight, but will continue to get tighter and tighter as I muscle it by hand.

Should I do that, forcing it all the way to the end as tight as possible by hand before I make the .1 inch adjustment?

Thanks all.

 

[TR4nut]

the procedure calling for 0.1 clearance is meant for TR3-4 cars with the finger clutch. For those, you unthread to remove all clearance and bring the slave piston to the very bottom of the bore. Then add 0.1 clearance.

For a 4A though I think you'd have the later diaphragm clutch which doesn't use the clearance method. So if that's what you have it sounds like you might still have air in the slave and more bleeding might help. The dreaded broken clutch fork pin can be talked about later!

 

[mctriumph]

The tr6 needs the adjustable rod like the earlier cars had(IMHO). As the system is used, wear
in the moving parts adds up. Also the hose to the slave should be uprated.
Mad dog

 

[TR4nut]

I agree, that's what I did - but if you use the tr6 slave you need to put spacers on the mounting points otherwise the normal adjustable rod will be too short. I've been planning on using a Tr3/4 slave next time to eliminate the spacers. I like having the spring to pull the throwout bearing off the clutch cover

 

[CJD]

+1 Yes, the rod must be lengthened until the slave piston is bottomed in the slave cylinder. Then back off from there. Depending on the slave, it could take a good bit of pressure. You can usually grab the clutch lever and push it forward hard to tell if there is any more room for the piston to travel.

 

[sp53]

Sounds like perhaps weak hydraulics somewhere; I would replace the master with a 30.00 special and see what happens. If you have a 1 inch slave cylinder, I would rebuild that one if the bore is smooth. In addition I would probably leave the slave cylinder on the car and push the guts out of it when rebuilding.

steve

 

[KVH]

Well, I carefully bled the hydraulics, then readjusted the slave rod, and it barely improved. Engagement and release is still quite low to the floor. I think I just need to live with it. Or I might try moving the clutch fork pin up or down one notch. Down would seem more correct. The clutch is new.

 

[CJD]

You need a shorter arm, so I believe "up" would be the direction. Whichever is closer to the pivot bushing.

 

[Popeye]

For what it worth, my experiences with a 4A clutch and incorrect clutch rod lengths: https://www.britishcarforum.com/com...eems-too-long-but-is-not.126968/#post-1199401