Clutch Problem - Seeking Input

[JBlubaugh]

Hi all -

Looking for some input / guidance before I pull the transmission out of the car.

Car : 1960 BT7
Problem: Grinding noise when clutch pedal is pushed in

Last week while driving the car I noticed I had a slight grinding sound coming out of the clutch area with a slight smell of something burning. I put it up on the jack stands and took a look underneath. I noticed the slave cylinder was leaking some fluid so I thought that might be the issue, not disengaging the clutch when depressed. I changed out the slave cylinder and started it up.

The noise continued and when I depressed the clutch pedal in, the noise grew in both sound and intensity to the point where the engine stalled out. I'm pretty much resigned to the fact I will have to pull the tranny, just curious as to what everyone thinks could be the problem.

One interesting thing....When I mated the transmission back on after an engine / transmission rebuild about 4 years ago, I could never get the clutch to disengage, it would always drag. I modified a pin to be 1/3 inch longer than normal and used that in the slave cylinder with no problems. I could never understand why the original pin didn't work if the slave mount points where on the block/bell cover. Is it possible something was not aligned correctly during the rebuild?

Thanks for reading and for you input.

Jim

 

[CanberraBJ8]

Is that the thrust bearing complaining? Or maybe there is some broken clutch fingers?

 

[57_BN4]

Sounds like the carbon release 'bearing' is worn down. Beware of reproduction ones, they may only last a short time but you can find original AP ones on Ebay. Before you put it back together you need to be sure the little plate the release block presses on is A flat, B shiny and C even or it will fail quickly again.

I had mine surface ground on a flywheel refacer then spent an evening on the lapping block with gradually finer grit until P1500, then I put a dial gauge on it while fitted to the installed clutch and adjusted the lever fulcrum points until there was no runout on the plate face. After fitting the gearbox and operating the clutch a few times to centralise everything and making a few more adjustments I then tig welded the locknuts that hold the fulcrum adjustments since they are only lightly staked with a screwdriver.

Andy.

 

[Keith_M]

This sounds like the throw-out (release) bearing....

Keith

 

[Johnny]

Good advice. I always have the flywheel re-surfaced, it does make a difference. When putting the flywheel back on follow the instructions in the manual or you'll be doing it all over again. It helps to have the engine at TDC on #1 piston.