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Bugeye rear wheel cylinder replacement tips

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TulsaFred

TulsaFred

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I just finished removing my finicky rear wheel cylinders. I read all the threads and the workshop manual but it was still frustrating.
Here is what was needed to get the cylinder out of the slot in the backing plate:

1. You have to remove the piston from the cylinder first! It says this in he manual but the threads usually dont mention it. I couldnt get the cylinder out without doing this.

2. Remove all 4 bolts from the backing plate to get it free. It wont come off because of the hub, but it gave me the additional little bit of clearance I needed.

i had to do both of the above. Either one alone and there was still not enough clearance.

HTH

Fred
 
Fred,

1) Throw away the new Circlips that come with a new kit. Hope fully you were able to save your old ones.
2) Purchase new rear and front hoses while you've got it apart. Needs to be done every 10 years as they collapse internally and don't show it externally. Bugsy's now at 12 years and overdue.

I'm going to start a brake job on Bugsy next week. Thought it was going to happen this week but it never happened. I bought new rear seal kits just in case I discover a leak back there. Last time I replaced rear wheel cylinders on my '68 I don't recall needing to go through any special gyrations to remove the wheel cylinders. They popped right out after removing circlips.
 
Jim,
the Mk 1's don't have the circlips, I consider this a good thing.
The problem is that the cylinder runs into the hub before the front of the cylinder clears the slot. You need to push the cylinder backwards in the slot, then angle the front of the cylinder outboard of the backing plate, once it clears you then pull the cylinder out.
The hub is what interferes, so if you are removing the hub no problem! Otherwise, you need to remove the piston and loosen the backing plate. At least that's what it took to get my cylinders out (Lockheed, made in England, not sure how long they've been on there).
Fred
Jim_Gruber said:
Fred,

1) Throw away the new Circlips that come with a new kit. Hope fully you were able to save your old ones.
2) Purchase new rear and front hoses while you've got it apart. Needs to be done every 10 years as they collapse internally and don't show it externally. Bugsy's now at 12 years and overdue.

I'm going to start a brake job on Bugsy next week. Thought it was going to happen this week but it never happened. I bought new rear seal kits just in case I discover a leak back there. Last time I replaced rear wheel cylinders on my '68 I don't recall needing to go through any special gyrations to remove the wheel cylinders. They popped right out after removing circlips.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Fred,

Be sure and replace those hoses.
 
I've done this job on Morris Minors (exact same setup) and Sprites without having to undo anything. It can be done, but does require getting the positions just right to get past the flange of the axle/hub.
 
Gerard said:
I've done this job on Morris Minors (exact same setup) and Sprites without having to undo anything. It can be done, but does require getting the positions just right to get past the flange of the axle/hub.
Click to expand...

I've read that from other postings/threads. Not sure why mine were so difficult. I have the entire differential removed from the car, the axles out, and all the brake parts removed. Even with that level of access I couldn't get them out without doing what was described. I fiddled and angled and cajoled and even tried a hammer in frustration. No dice. I'm wondering if my old cylinders are slightly different castings.
 
On my '72 which has circlips, I throw them away.
The cylinders have a locating pin I remove and throw them away as well.
I run a tap into the hole the pin came out of and bolt them to the backplate.
The whole job takes about 5 minutes, and saves all the trouble of trying to install the stupid clips
You can see the allen head bolt I use, right next to the bleed nippleP7270122.jpg
 
A simple fix but then there is the worry that the allen head bolt would come loose. Hmmmm, other thoughts on this idea.
 
Many, most cars bolt the wheel cylinders to the back-plates with no problems.
I used lockwashers, but locktite as an added measure is a great idea.

The idea came from the British BBS, and many over there do brakes this way. I've been using this technique for about 8 years through about 3 brake jobs with no loosening.

Of course as with any repair, your mileage may vary and all risks are assumed by the user.
 
Locktite, well then the fix becomes semi-permanent. Maybe not the permanent lock-tite(Red or Blue forget which one is which). But definitely with Lock Washers. I like the fix.

Thanks Team!!!
 
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