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2 post lifts

Rut

Obi Wan
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Good morning all. I'm starting on some rough drawings and a wish list for my shop rebuild and would like your input. So far I'm opening up the floor plan in the shop area from 12x35 to 16x40 which is about as big as I can do given the building codes and the proximity to my neighbor. I'll be increasing the ceiling height to 12' and my plan is to install a 2 post lift, but I'm not sure of the best place to put it...the front, middle, or rear. The rear would make more sense to me, but I also want to have easy access and still store my junk, er tools, cars, parts and such.
Im upgrading my compressor and piping everything as well as dedicated 220 for the compressor, welders, etc. and dedicated 110 outlets for those tools that need it. I plan on having exterior electrical, air, and water on the back of the shop for those messy projects. I'll also consolidate all my tools in one rolling tool box which will help, but I need to store engine stands, a folding cherry picker, sand blaster, and other seldom used bulky items where I can have access. I think it will be a good idea to move the blast cabinet outside under cover since the media gets everywhere and really affects my clean area.
Ive always had my buffers, sanders, grinders, etc. on rolling stands so I can direct the ditrious outside by having a fan help it along...I may need to invest in system for dust control for these tools.
Now back to the lift. The heaviest car I'll have on the lift will be about 3000 lbs and I'm not sure how thick my slab is, but should I tear it out and re pour to prevent any future problems for the next homeowner if it's not thick enough? Does anyone have experience with or a recommendation for a particular type or brand of lift?
Just so you know, my shop doubles as a pool house and the complete structure will be 24x40, but my wife get the open area facing the pool. If I can convince her to remove the pool which we use twice a year I could get the whole structure!
Thanks, Rut
 
Hi Rut

Glad to see you are back with a new plan for a shop

Cheers

Mark
 
I wouldn't put the lift tool close to a wall. You'll need that vertical storage space. I would certainly cut out the floor and pour some new pillars. For a home lift I'd shop at GregSmithEquipment.com
 
I would get a lift that uses most of that 12 foot height. Mine is 11"10 and I wish I had two more inches as my head hits the beams at times. The other option in securing the posts is tension wires at the top of the posts to something STRONG in the construction. I attached mine front and back to the main steel beams of the building. Usually the lifts come with some options:
1. different size cones to raise the lift pads. I use these all the time.
2. symmetrical vs asymmetrical arms. I have the second version and I would think it gives you more options to put the car on. some off my cars go in engine first, some trunk first. I find the British cars are almost too narrow for the lift, you have to extend the arms out all the way. That is why I went with a 10000 lb lift. Safety!
3. Mine is in the middle of a two car garage. With the arms and posts, you lose a little garage, but you want to be able to get around the car.

Jerry
 
Sorry I can't advise you on a lift but I am really happy that you are already planning your "recovery".
 
Hi Rut,
glad to hear you're planning to rebuild! I built a 24 X 36 detached garage the summer before last for my LBC hobby. It has 9 ft walls, but the trusses are 12 ft apart (pole barn), so it will easily accommodate a lift. I poured a nominal 4 inch thick slab, but dug out the middle of the center bay an extra 2 inches deep to make the slab 6 inches thick in that area for a future lift. I really want to be able to utilize all the floor space for different uses depending on what I'm doing at the time IE... Maintenance, rotisserie restoration, painting, so I like the idea of this lift https://www.maxjaxusa.com/. The Only problem of course is the low lift height.
mark
 
Good to see you planning for a rebuild.

You definitely want to be sure of your concrete when planning for a 2-post lift. The lift manufacturer should have specs for you. It's not uncommon for folks to cut up and re-pour a section to support the lift.

As to placement, that's a question I'm pondering as well as I plan my new shop. I'd recommend doing some searches on the Garage Journal (https://www.garagejournal.com) to see what folks have done.

Keep us posted as you go through the process.
 
Thanks guys! Just about 30 min ago my wife agreed that we should fill in the pool! It looks like I'll have the opportunity to build what I want without the constraints of the original footprint. I'm guessing a 24x40 building with 12' ceilings will give me enough room for a shop and additional garage space as well as room for 1 ongoing restoration. Keep those cards and letters coming since I need your ideas and suggestions to make this work.
Thanks, Rut
 
New Stuff, New Stuff = EXCITING!!! Now to figure out how to get it all done and still fight with the Insurance Company. I do hope they treat you well.
 
Good to see you at it Rut. Don't have much experience with lifts but I like the looks of Marks "maxjac". A friend has one of these or something very similiar that he likes just because it can be moved while my brother has a dedicated two post lift that is really kinda in the way unless hes actually using it. However if you are going to end up with a big building that probably isn't an issue. Don't think I've seen guy with the max jac move it either.

Kurt
 
Kurt,
Thanks for the comments and I'm now leaning toward a 4 post lift with casters so it can be moved. I'm not very familiar with lifts, 2 or 4 post and I'm not clear on how you lift the body with a 4 post vs the 2. I'm not going to have the biggest space, so moving the lift sounds really good to me.
Rut
 
Shops are definitely a case of bigger is better. Who needs a pool anyways. :grin: Good luck, and have some fun with the planning.

4-post is nice for parking, bodywork (no post on the side to get in the way). Suspension work is problematic, as you need to jack up that end. Also, they can be an issue for our small, narrow cars. The distance between the rails can be too wide.

2-post is nice as you can get to the suspension and underside without obstruction. Not great for parking, though, and requires more thought on the concrete. You would also want to make sure that the post location works for our little cars. Our narrow cars can be a PITA sometimes.

The MaxJack is a nice option. Doesn't go as high, but you can roll under it on a seat. You will want to be careful with the concrete as well. Can be removed when not in use which is nice in a smaller space -- and you could setup a couple different sets of anchors to be able to use it in a couple locations.

There isn't a simple answer as to the right lift. I've spent some time on Garage Journal researching lifts over the last couple years, and still haven't made up my mind for my new shop (coming maybe next year). Truthfully, any lift is better than jack stands!
 
Drew,
When you use a 4 post lift, would you just lift the car and place jack stands under the axles and then let the lift down if you wanted to do suspension work or is there a center stand you can place under the car? I really need to do research!
Thanks, Rut
 
For the 4-post, you get a trolley jack that runs between the rails. You drive the car on the lift, and then use the jack that's attached to the lift to jack up the front or rear to pull the weels. This way you can still have the car in the air but have it off the suspension.

Spend some time on the BendPak website too, good info there even if you don't go with them.
 
Moveable 4 post has always been my choice but had to give the idea up since I can't build a shop anyway. As Drew said, you can use it to park 2 cars. Now that you may have more space, it sounds like a great idea to me. Oh, good news that.
 
With a 4-post lift you could also use jack trays and bottle jacks. (this is my method) I purchased my lift primarily for parking.
 
My kind of thread. First Congratulations on the excitement of building a garage from scratch. I believe you are in the process of making lemonade.
My progression with having a shop has been from:
Apartment Living: No Garage
First House: Very small Garage that a Spitfire filled up like a Cadilac.
Second House: Back to No Garage. I could roll a motorcycle into the basement family room.
Third House: Two Car Garage
Then I added a Garage at a house in the Mountains. It was something like 28 x 32. Then I added a 16 x 12 Motorcycle Garage at our home. Then I added a 16 x 16 Motorcycle ATV Garage in the Mountains.
Sold the Mountain house when the economy tanked in 2008 and was back to one garage with the detached MC garage.

Then I started my ultimate Garage Man Cave 25 minutes from my house in Richmond.
40 x 64 x 12.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...garage-pole-barn-40-a.html?highlight=callaway
I installed one 4 post lift and a 2 post lift.
You really should have a min of 6-8" of concrete for a two post lift with about 9K capacity. I still was always worried about lifting a full size truck.
4 post lift was just for storage.
All the pluses and minuses have been listed by others.
After each garage design, I kept changing it to what I needed not what others might think was a better design.

Decided to downsize. Sell the house where we raised kids and start over. Sold the 40 x 64 x 12 to a friend. I lived in the Man Cave for a year while building the new house and garage. Very Stressful on a marriage in what was the size of a Tiny House apartment.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/332868-virginia-garage-house-let-process.html

New House and Garage.
1800' House with an oversize 2 car and 1/2 bath. First time my wife has been able to park a car in a garage in 36 years.
3000' Garage

New Garage Man Cave is 36' x 60' x 12' with a second floor. 14' or 16' x 60' x 7' ceilings due to county restriction placed on me to keep it from becoming a living space.
My suggestions since I am spending your money.
Add a second floor for storage only. Money Well Spent for the square footage gained.
With the size you are looking at, place the stairs on the outside to reach the second floor.
Go Maximum width on Garage doors. 16' x min of 8' and one 10' with a 12' ceiling. I am not sure how your garage is oriented. The more width to work with is easier than the depth. I understand you work with what you have.
My new garage has 3 4 post lifts.
I can get 9 cars in half the garage. Mainly why I like small cars.
Very little I cannot do with a 4 post vs 2 post. I poured concrete 8-10" where the 2 post would mount. 2 Post is great for detailing and wheel issues.
I have never worried about loading the 4 posts. 2 posts are iffy at times and not designed for long term storage. 2 post was great when lifting a boat off a trailer for axle replacement. You need at least 14 to 16' clearance from the centerline of the 2 posts to the garage doors.
4 post lifts are super easy to roll around.
I did not coat the floor and have kept it natural concrete. Other than high dollar epoxy coatings, I mean industrial, they don't hold up. Bare concrete cleans up just fine.
Lean to's are also great value vs cost. Store the lawn mower etc outside under cover, keep the garage just for your stuff!
Lots of concrete pad area comes in handy when you want to roll stuff outside.

 
Great insights, hcallaway. I just spent a considerable amount of time going through your build thread. A really nice place you've built for yourself!
 
Great insights, hcallaway. I just spent a considerable amount of time going through your build thread. A really nice place you've built for yourself!
Thanks I have a very understanding wife. Getting the house and garage in one place has maximized my time in the garage.
 
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