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TR2/3/3A 123Ignition

Since no one else has commented, I'll say this much.

I don't have one of these on my TR4A, but I do have one on my Porsche 912. I got it about 10 years ago, before the programmable version was available. I find it to be a beautifully made product, very high quality, and works well. I set the timing years ago, and every time I check it, it's right on. I would have bought the programmable one if it were available.

There has been some discussion on the 912 forum (912bbs.org) and people with the programmable version seem to be pleased with it. I have heard no complaints about its performance, but there are some about the price. (At the same time, these guys will pay about the same amount for a restored original Bosch distributor, and nary a peep out of them!)

Originally I had intended to get one of the programmable ones for my TR, but I got involved in experimenting with electronic ignitions of my own design, and it was simpler just to use the original distributor. I may yet get one, though.
 
Thanks for your input. I discussed with some Jaq owners and they all swear but it. Most have more than 2 years and no issues.
 
I'll swear by my stock point ignition...I've had it for 69 years, and it's adjustable too, LOL!
 
IMHO it is best to take the breaker assy out of the dizzy, install new points and condenser, put it in a zip lock bag.
Then if your modern high tech(fill in the blank) sparkaffyer should quit, you can roadside it in 5 minutes.
Then you will feel super smart when your wife says " you fixed it? cool", as you get back on the road.
Mad dog
 
It always amuses me that people view the Kettering (points-capacitor) ignition as reliable, but the electronic ones are unreliable. You don't have to spend much time on this forum to realize that the opposite is true. I frequently hear the argument that one can replace points in a few minutes if they fail, but with an electronic ignition you're stuck. That works until the thing fails at 2 AM in South LA in a 40-degree rain, and your frozen fingers drop a nut into the distributor. Also, this assumes that you know what the problem is. Not fun to start diagnosing a problem at night beside the freeway.

I like to design and build electronic ignitions. My latest had a switch so I could easily switch back to a conventional ignition if the electronic one failed--it seemed prudent in an untested, experimental circuit. So, one day I pulled out of my driveway and the car died. Popped the hood, threw the switch, and the car started immediately. Back home, I removed the electronic module and found that the electronics were fine--the switch--the only electromechanical part--had failed. I removed the switch, and it has been fine ever since.
 
It always amuses me that people view the Kettering (points-capacitor) ignition as reliable, but the electronic ones are unreliable. You don't have to spend much time on this forum to realize that the opposite is true. I frequently hear the argument that one can replace points in a few minutes if they fail, but with an electronic ignition you're stuck. That works until the thing fails at 2 AM in South LA in a 40-degree rain, and your frozen fingers drop a nut into the distributor. Also, this assumes that you know what the problem is. Not fun to start diagnosing a problem at night beside the freeway.

I like to design and build electronic ignitions. My latest had a switch so I could easily switch back to a conventional ignition if the electronic one failed--it seemed prudent in an untested, experimental circuit. So, one day I pulled out of my driveway and the car died. Popped the hood, threw the switch, and the car started immediately. Back home, I removed the electronic module and found that the electronics were fine--the switch--the only electromechanical part--had failed. I removed the switch, and it has been fine ever since.
Couldn’t agree more!
I’ve found that my car, starts and runs much, much better with my electronic ignition. It’s performed flawlessly for over 20 years.
Not going back to points.
 
Hier ist meine ZĂĽndkurve mit Unterdruckkurve

240809 ZĂĽndkurfe..jpg
240809 Unterdruck-Kurfe.jpg
 
got a 123 in my '67 MK2 Jag and one in my '53 TD. makes startup instant. wouldn't have anything else.

one wire for 12v power, one for ground and one to the distributor.

and of course there's no black box associated with the 123distributor. ever'thing's in the distributor body these days.
 
OK, Now that I've had some running time I can't overstate how GREAT the 123Ignition is! My car has never run smoother, start quicker, and perform better. It feels that is has more HP. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND it to anyone that is thinking of it. The curves provided from hueyhoolihan worked perfect for my TR3. I couldn't be happier.
 
Just helped my buddy install a 123 in a Jenson Healey vintage racer. I really like the idea of
being able to customise the curve ON the dyno for best performance. I think my 59 will get one for
Christmas.
The only issue was the retraining plate on the Jenson had to be notched to accept the new dist.
He is now praying for the Dellorto gods lift the curse on the carbs(2500$ so far).
Mad dog
 
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