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My differential, which I had rebuilt, started to howl at me, as if the gears were somehow out of mesh. After taking it apart, here is what I found. This is the outer pinion bearing:
(Sorry about the big image, but I wanted to make the wear easy to see.) Many of the rollers had similar spalling. This bearing has only 3500 miles on it.
This is supposedly a new, top-quality, Timken bearing, but I see no way that it possibly could be. I suspect strongly that it is a counterfeit. The inner bearing did not show this degree of spalling, but still had some light scoring, which it really shouldn't have. I am replacing both, cones and races.
Looking into this a bit further, I learned that counterfeit bearings are a big problem in the bearing industry. This is especially concerning, as some bearings, such as wheel bearings, are critical to safety. Fortunately, there is an organization called the World Bearing Association, which is trying to prevent bearing counterfeiting. You can download an app from their website, https://www.stopfakebearings.com, which will identify fakes by scanning their QR-coded serial numbers. It works for a number of major manufacturers, not all--but no one is going to counterfeit a cheapo bearing; just no money in doing that.
I checked three of the four replacement bearing parts that I bought (two cones, two races). Three were OK. The fourth was a very old part in a faded, shopworn box with no serial no., so I couldn't check it. I returned it and ordered a replacement from another seller. In the future, I will buy only bearings in original boxes, with QR-coded serial numbers, so I can check them.
In retrospect, there were a couple of red flags that I missed. This was a bearing type, 15100-SR, which has probably been discontinued. It was marked "made in England," but few Timken bearings, if any, are still made there. I bought it from Amazon, which is simply a sales conduit; it does not check for genuine bearings. Unfortunately, I no longer have the boxes so I can't check the serial numbers with the app.
So, there's the warning. I hope it helps.
(Sorry about the big image, but I wanted to make the wear easy to see.) Many of the rollers had similar spalling. This bearing has only 3500 miles on it.
This is supposedly a new, top-quality, Timken bearing, but I see no way that it possibly could be. I suspect strongly that it is a counterfeit. The inner bearing did not show this degree of spalling, but still had some light scoring, which it really shouldn't have. I am replacing both, cones and races.
Looking into this a bit further, I learned that counterfeit bearings are a big problem in the bearing industry. This is especially concerning, as some bearings, such as wheel bearings, are critical to safety. Fortunately, there is an organization called the World Bearing Association, which is trying to prevent bearing counterfeiting. You can download an app from their website, https://www.stopfakebearings.com, which will identify fakes by scanning their QR-coded serial numbers. It works for a number of major manufacturers, not all--but no one is going to counterfeit a cheapo bearing; just no money in doing that.
I checked three of the four replacement bearing parts that I bought (two cones, two races). Three were OK. The fourth was a very old part in a faded, shopworn box with no serial no., so I couldn't check it. I returned it and ordered a replacement from another seller. In the future, I will buy only bearings in original boxes, with QR-coded serial numbers, so I can check them.
In retrospect, there were a couple of red flags that I missed. This was a bearing type, 15100-SR, which has probably been discontinued. It was marked "made in England," but few Timken bearings, if any, are still made there. I bought it from Amazon, which is simply a sales conduit; it does not check for genuine bearings. Unfortunately, I no longer have the boxes so I can't check the serial numbers with the app.
So, there's the warning. I hope it helps.
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