TR2/3/3A TR2 and early TR3 wipers

[sp53]

Here are some pics and questions. How do the deforest vents come out of a tr2 when they have the windshield wiper cable under them in the way and the wiper nuts will not come over the wiper mounting splined nuts that sticks up out of the shuttle. In other words, how do I get the wiper wheel gears apart or do I need to. i have never saw a brass end on a tac gable, so I thought I would share. I need to get some better pics of the wiper splined end.

steve

 

[CJD]

I'm not sure what I am looking at. Your wiper motor looks all TR2, but I don't know what the rest is. Here are some pics of what a TR2 system should look like...

 

[CJD]

And, in this last pic you can see the wiper arms do not press on like the TR3. They slip on and then you tighten the nuts which lock them onto a plain stud coming out of the gears.

 

[sp53]

Thanks John I realized before when I posted I missed the important picture, space. I think I see what happened; someone modified the ends of mine with some other end piece. The splined end piece on mine looks like they drilled a hole and put a pin in or allen maybe to make something work. Perhaps they will pop right off, I really did not want to mess with it until I had better information.

steve

 

[DavidApp]

That is an Allen screw in the head. Probable standard Allen key. Penetrating oil and some heat may move it. Use a heat gun (Paint stripper) not a torch.

David

 

[sp53]

I see it now David after I magnified the pic with the computer. It actually looks like one of the allens is missing. Hopefully, they will slid off I do have a kinda small puller for battery cables It was not clear to me with the naked eye with glasses. John that car is nice!

steve

 

[sp53]

Well those little splined bushing dealies came off easier than I thought they would. Like David said those are allens. What is unsettling is they ground a small flat spot on the shaft for the allens, but the collet style arm should still grab hold. The allens are steel and the splined ends aluminum and I think that helped.

I stayed out and worked a little longer and got the center dash and heater out. They have been loosening for weeks. I am trying to get the large dash out, and I think there are 2 nuts back in behind the driver defrost still. I do not know if the dash will clear the steering wheel if I get those bolts out, and getting the steering wheel off has turned out to be difficult. I got one of the grub screws out, but the other 2 are giving me trouble. Any ideas on removing those grub screw would help.

This car has this evolutionary thing going. The wiring harness must have been replaced with a newer one from who knows when (but my guess is sixties or seventies). The wiring harness has the newer taillight fuse from I think 1959 is when that was added. Moreover, the wiring harness looks like it was installed at the factory, but does not have that waxy coating that I have seen on pre-1958 cars. it is like they slowly turned the car into a tr3 with improvements as time passed.

My hands are probably not as strong anymore, and I think I sprained them twisting out rusty nuts and bolts, so I am done for a while.



steve

 

[DavidApp]

The harness may have been replaced with one from British wiring at some time but the wire nut looks like an add on. You have some work ahead of you with those rusty screws in the switches and gauged.

I replaced the core in my heater with a modern core that is an almost direct replacement. A little work is needed to make it work.

David